Getting this big old Diesel engine to run...
Discussion
Hi
Hoping for a bit of experience please. My old man got this engine powered table saw a decade ago. Believe it ran when he picked it up but it never got put together (until now).
Basic problem is it seems to be seized. Put a battery on it (which may not have been big enough) but couldn’t get it to go. Took starter off which does spin. Tried to turn the big wheel (technical term...) but it’s locked. Tied a big bar to it and can’t turn it, tried a hammer and crowbar too.
Any tips please?
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/UaAyiXEC.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/DxTzlTea" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/DxTzlTea.jpg)
Hoping for a bit of experience please. My old man got this engine powered table saw a decade ago. Believe it ran when he picked it up but it never got put together (until now).
Basic problem is it seems to be seized. Put a battery on it (which may not have been big enough) but couldn’t get it to go. Took starter off which does spin. Tried to turn the big wheel (technical term...) but it’s locked. Tied a big bar to it and can’t turn it, tried a hammer and crowbar too.
Any tips please?
You would be best pulling the injectors out and squirting some diesel into each cylinder each day for a week. That will help to free up the rings from the bores. Don't go mental on a bar trying to crank it over. Just work it a bit back and forth, it will hopefully release.
Put the injectors back in once it is rotating freely.
Put the injectors back in once it is rotating freely.
Heard of all sorts of things from brake fluid, oil, WD etc etc down the bores to try and unseize things.
But ultimately if it is seized, there could well be piston/ring/bore damage too, so even brute force or other methods to try and unstick it, most certainly will not mean that it is ok.
Assuming it is that seized and not some other major component failure within.
But ultimately if it is seized, there could well be piston/ring/bore damage too, so even brute force or other methods to try and unstick it, most certainly will not mean that it is ok.
Assuming it is that seized and not some other major component failure within.
I have an engine that I bought for a song, because it had no cylinder head and had been out in the rain. It was seized.
Using the same method as Dr.DeAth, I poured my own magic mixture, white spirit and engine oil into the bores, and gave the crank a tweak every day, both ways. Gradually it freed up, and is now running, in an engine rig, not a car. And no excessive blowby seen!
As this is part of a saw bench, and performance is not required, I'd go the same route, and confidently hope for success!
JOhn
Using the same method as Dr.DeAth, I poured my own magic mixture, white spirit and engine oil into the bores, and gave the crank a tweak every day, both ways. Gradually it freed up, and is now running, in an engine rig, not a car. And no excessive blowby seen!
As this is part of a saw bench, and performance is not required, I'd go the same route, and confidently hope for success!
JOhn
That's an old Merc lump I think. Tough as anything proper old school lump so 20 mins & the head will be off. The fuel pump will need a clean out you might be able to disconnect the pump easily & spin it up? & you could try filling the entire block with diesel, leave it a few weeks, with an occasional wiggle, drain down & see what happens.
I'm pretty sure thats an OM 636, found in boats & all sorts of things still in use today. You can get anything for them.
It's one of these https://mercedessource.com/tech-help/videos/merced...
It's one of these https://mercedessource.com/tech-help/videos/merced...
As said, you need to get something wet into the stuck bores buy the sound of it. Presumably it's not been stored somewhere very dry!
Might get lucky filling the inlet we other white spirit, but while I've only done it to petrols which is easier, your on pulling the injectors out I expect.
Daniel
Might get lucky filling the inlet we other white spirit, but while I've only done it to petrols which is easier, your on pulling the injectors out I expect.
Daniel
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...
No connection other than a satisfied user etc, etc.
Or use any other fluid that you have to hand.
No connection other than a satisfied user etc, etc.
Or use any other fluid that you have to hand.
If you take any injectors out don’t forget to use a new sealing washer when you refit them.
To remove an injector, first disconnect the pipes. Undo and remove the two nuts and washers holding the injector to the head. Tap the body gently with a copper mallet while pulling the body clear of the head. Hook the old sealing washer out.
To remove an injector, first disconnect the pipes. Undo and remove the two nuts and washers holding the injector to the head. Tap the body gently with a copper mallet while pulling the body clear of the head. Hook the old sealing washer out.
66mpg said:
If you take any injectors out don’t forget to use a new sealing washer when you refit them.
To remove an injector, first disconnect the pipes. Undo and remove the two nuts and washers holding the injector to the head. Tap the body gently with a copper mallet while pulling the body clear of the head. Hook the old sealing washer out.
The sealing washers will most likely be deformed around the injector pintle. To get it running I wouldn't bother replacing the washers. If it's already dead, then no point re sealing the injectors.To remove an injector, first disconnect the pipes. Undo and remove the two nuts and washers holding the injector to the head. Tap the body gently with a copper mallet while pulling the body clear of the head. Hook the old sealing washer out.
If it will run happily enough once it has freed up, I would then do the full service and injector washers.
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