New Draper torque wrench not clicking?
Discussion
Funny one this, bought new draper torque wrench to do a clutch. Flywheel bolts were to be 70nm,pressure plate bolts 17nm.
While doing flywheel ones it just wouldn't click? And by experience/feel i knew it must have reached 70nm!
I actually sent the first wrench back as it was the same. When it came to the 17nm ones no click also, again, just had to guess tightness which isn't ideal!
Odd thing is while i still had it set at 17nm i picked a random bolt on the car which i knew would be more than 17nm,and it clicked pretty early on??
Is there any procedure with new wrenches i've missed? :-)
While doing flywheel ones it just wouldn't click? And by experience/feel i knew it must have reached 70nm!
I actually sent the first wrench back as it was the same. When it came to the 17nm ones no click also, again, just had to guess tightness which isn't ideal!
Odd thing is while i still had it set at 17nm i picked a random bolt on the car which i knew would be more than 17nm,and it clicked pretty early on??
Is there any procedure with new wrenches i've missed? :-)
You can do a rough calibration using a known weight or some scales to apply a known force, calculating the applied torque as force times leverage.
It would be worth doing that for a few settings to see whether the behaviour seems correct. The fact it does click at a lower setting suggests it's not simply jammed.
It would be worth doing that for a few settings to see whether the behaviour seems correct. The fact it does click at a lower setting suggests it's not simply jammed.
GreenV8S said:
It would be worth doing that for a few settings to see whether the behaviour seems correct. The fact it does click at a lower setting suggests it's not simply jammed.
Well technically it 'didn' t' click at the low 17nm while tightening a bolt, but it 'did' click putting the wrench on a pretightened bolt tightened higher than 17nm? It's a Draper 54627 3/8 drive.
Right, here’s what I’d do.
Wind the setting back to 10nm. Does it click as expected when try it on something that’s definitely torqued to a higher setting, say 80nm or more.
If it clicks, go up by 10nm at a time. If there’s a fault, you’ll know for sure.
For me, I wouldn’t spend so little on a torque wrench in the first place.
Good luck!
Wind the setting back to 10nm. Does it click as expected when try it on something that’s definitely torqued to a higher setting, say 80nm or more.
If it clicks, go up by 10nm at a time. If there’s a fault, you’ll know for sure.
For me, I wouldn’t spend so little on a torque wrench in the first place.
Good luck!
Just to be clear - when you're investigating the behaviour of the torque wrench you should be anchoring the output on something solid. That might be a securely mounted vice, or a bolt installed in something big and heavy which you know is tightened to more torque than you're going to apply to the wrench. You shouldn't be actually loosening and tightening bolts.
robbocop33 said:
Funny one this, bought new draper torque wrench to do a clutch. Flywheel bolts were to be 70nm,pressure plate bolts 17nm.
While doing flywheel ones it just wouldn't click? And by experience/feel i knew it must have reached 70nm!
I actually sent the first wrench back as it was the same. When it came to the 17nm ones no click also, again, just had to guess tightness which isn't ideal!
Odd thing is while i still had it set at 17nm i picked a random bolt on the car which i knew would be more than 17nm,and it clicked pretty early on??
Is there any procedure with new wrenches i've missed? :-)
So you're saying that you personally are more accurate than a torque wrench?While doing flywheel ones it just wouldn't click? And by experience/feel i knew it must have reached 70nm!
I actually sent the first wrench back as it was the same. When it came to the 17nm ones no click also, again, just had to guess tightness which isn't ideal!
Odd thing is while i still had it set at 17nm i picked a random bolt on the car which i knew would be more than 17nm,and it clicked pretty early on??
Is there any procedure with new wrenches i've missed? :-)
There is a warm up procedure, but it'll only make it a bit more accurate. I would hit the PH search engine with the term 'torque wrench calibration' and do some basic tests on it. There is one where you hang x weight on at x length which gives you xx torque.
Tony1963 said:
Right, here’s what I’d do.
Wind the setting back to 10nm. Does it click as expected when try it on something that’s definitely torqued to a higher setting, say 80nm or more.
If it clicks, go up by 10nm at a time. If there’s a fault, you’ll know for sure.
For me, I wouldn’t spend so little on a torque wrench in the first place.
Good luck!
I've been meaning to get a really good torque wrench for ages, this was just a quick buy to do one job. I'll try all the suggestions, thanks. Wind the setting back to 10nm. Does it click as expected when try it on something that’s definitely torqued to a higher setting, say 80nm or more.
If it clicks, go up by 10nm at a time. If there’s a fault, you’ll know for sure.
For me, I wouldn’t spend so little on a torque wrench in the first place.
Good luck!
GreenV8S said:
Just to be clear - when you're investigating the behaviour of the torque wrench you should be anchoring the output on something solid. That might be a securely mounted vice, or a bolt installed in something big and heavy which you know is tightened to more torque than you're going to apply to the wrench. You shouldn't be actually loosening and tightening bolts.
I'm not loosening bolts, you're not meant to with a torque wrench. I did test on a rock solid bolt as i said earlier. Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff