Discussion
So as I was mooching around my new to me 997 GT3 this afternoon, thinking about the noise question (other thread here), I looked at the front pads - in that what else needs checking before a track day mood. The front pads are significantly tapered - see in the pic below.
Is that normal. What should I do? The thick bit looks like plenty of pad left, the thin bit looks horrid!
Cheers
Bert
IMG_20190112_144610 by BertBert, on Flickr
Is that normal. What should I do? The thick bit looks like plenty of pad left, the thin bit looks horrid!
Cheers
Bert
IMG_20190112_144610 by BertBert, on Flickrhttps://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-gt3rs-and-911r...
Post by JRitt@essex half way down would suggest this is normal.
My discs and pads are brand new, and I don't have enough miles under my belt to offer first hand experience I'm afraid, but I hope the thread above helps nonetheless.
Post by JRitt@essex half way down would suggest this is normal.
My discs and pads are brand new, and I don't have enough miles under my belt to offer first hand experience I'm afraid, but I hope the thread above helps nonetheless.
Ah, yes. I see that now, and I'm baffled.
Worth checking that the pad slides freely on it's guides and isn't binding anywhere but I can't imagine a scenario where pads could wear like that unless the pistons have dug into the backing material. Certainly some inefficiencies going on, and worthy of further investigation before heading onto the track, in my view.
Worth checking that the pad slides freely on it's guides and isn't binding anywhere but I can't imagine a scenario where pads could wear like that unless the pistons have dug into the backing material. Certainly some inefficiencies going on, and worthy of further investigation before heading onto the track, in my view.
its normal to have some tapering. just keep an eye on it under the track day and then change after.
unfortunately CCB downside is perpetual worry about thin pads heating up the disc too much vs a thicker fuller pad. But a few track outings should do it no harm if you are not being brutal with the car.
unfortunately CCB downside is perpetual worry about thin pads heating up the disc too much vs a thicker fuller pad. But a few track outings should do it no harm if you are not being brutal with the car.
It depends how hard you work them ...
I used to get two track days at which point the half pads that were left had the consistency of sugarloaf ...
Hence I changed to ST discs and my pads now last a very long time ... but maybe I am too hard on my brakes ?
I used to get two track days at which point the half pads that were left had the consistency of sugarloaf ...
Hence I changed to ST discs and my pads now last a very long time ... but maybe I am too hard on my brakes ?
Edited by ChrisW. on Sunday 13th January 18:06
Edited by ChrisW. on Sunday 13th January 18:07
Porsche911R said:
Sadly a taper that much most likely means the ceramic pucks will be also cracked.
PCCB pads need changing 1/2 worn and swapping side to side 1/4 worn.
Did over 40 track days in my 91RS, Around 8k Track Mikes. Used to change pads when down to just below 1/2 Worn. Never changed pads from side to side. Zero problem's with CCBDs, from a wear point, still within 111 Inspection range, at 12k Miles. But had to change front ones due to stone Chips. PCCB pads need changing 1/2 worn and swapping side to side 1/4 worn.
Porsche911R said:
Sadly a taper that much most likely means the ceramic pucks will be also cracked.
I'm not familiar with the intricacies of the PCCB calipers but if the pucks you mention sit between the piston and the backing plate of the pad, and have deteriorated in some way, that's a good shout, as it could potentially impart a load on the pad which is not equal across the pistons or around the axis of each individual piston and that would do the trick nicely (radial tapered wear)What’s the view on titanium pucks, these guys claim they are as good as ceramic pucks for stopping heat transfer
https://www.autoquestcars.com/custom-08
Very expensive for that they are, but cheaper than a caliper
https://www.autoquestcars.com/custom-08
Very expensive for that they are, but cheaper than a caliper
To get that sort of taper Bert, my money's still on some sort of puck issue now that I've become an expert courtesy of Google 
I don't think anyone could call it normal at any rate, and I wouldn't have thought they'd be operating at full efficiency. Would be worth a caliper rebuild and some new pads just as an insurance policy for your PCCB's.
Let us know what Fearnsport say...

I don't think anyone could call it normal at any rate, and I wouldn't have thought they'd be operating at full efficiency. Would be worth a caliper rebuild and some new pads just as an insurance policy for your PCCB's.
Let us know what Fearnsport say...
D.no said:
To get that sort of taper Bert, my money's still on some sort of puck issue now that I've become an expert courtesy of Google 
I don't think anyone could call it normal at any rate, and I wouldn't have thought they'd be operating at full efficiency. Would be worth a caliper rebuild and some new pads just as an insurance policy for your PCCB's.
Let us know what Fearnsport say...
it's not a taper, he is only showing us what an OEM pad should look like :-)
I don't think anyone could call it normal at any rate, and I wouldn't have thought they'd be operating at full efficiency. Would be worth a caliper rebuild and some new pads just as an insurance policy for your PCCB's.
Let us know what Fearnsport say...
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