Quick gearbox install question, only 1cm gap to go,
Discussion
Now i know it's frowned upon to draw in a gearbox to the engine with bolts, as if the input shaft isn't central you can damage the input shaft, and or seal.
But, in my case i've got 1cm gap between the bellhousing and gearbox all the way round so i'm making a call that shaft is in position and nearly fully home(i can see that through inspection hole)and that the internal clutch slave cylinder is pressurised stopping the last 1cm going in?
I didn't have this problem last time as this time i was advised to prefill clutch slave cylinder before fitting it.
When i'm pushing gearbox in fluid is coming out the slaves pipe so cylinder must be making contact with pressure plate already,can i draw it on with the original bolts all the way in now?
But, in my case i've got 1cm gap between the bellhousing and gearbox all the way round so i'm making a call that shaft is in position and nearly fully home(i can see that through inspection hole)and that the internal clutch slave cylinder is pressurised stopping the last 1cm going in?
I didn't have this problem last time as this time i was advised to prefill clutch slave cylinder before fitting it.
When i'm pushing gearbox in fluid is coming out the slaves pipe so cylinder must be making contact with pressure plate already,can i draw it on with the original bolts all the way in now?
No. It's not just for the reasons you mention that you don't use the bolts to pull them together. Imagine they are rotated relative to each other a fraction of a degree. The location spigots/sleeves/whatever you call them may be just sat on the edge of the holes. They usually protrude about 1cm. If you tighten up the bolts against them you can easily break a section off the engine block or bellhousing.
I can see the splined part of the shaft is in the clutch friction plate centre. I'm pushing with a crow bar against the chassis rails and gearbox end, while turning, moving flywheel. I just thought slave cylinder getting depressed and the fluid coming out it was nearly fully home.
Gap was about an inch and a half, then with much wiggling and swearing it shot in to a cm gap, i thought then it would slot in.
Last time i done it it fell in! I just thought maybe this time with slave full of fluid there was a bit of pressure against me getting it in this time.
Gap was about an inch and a half, then with much wiggling and swearing it shot in to a cm gap, i thought then it would slot in.
Last time i done it it fell in! I just thought maybe this time with slave full of fluid there was a bit of pressure against me getting it in this time.
Unless you’ve got something trapped between the engine and box it’s sure to be an alignment issue.
I would take the box back out and check.
Is the drive plate the right way around?
Are you supporting the box with a stand of some description? Make sure the stand is free to move in the direction you need it to. You shouldn’t have to lever the box in, just a bit of wiggling should do it.
Alternatively, put your fingers in the space, it’s bound to go then!!
I would take the box back out and check.
Is the drive plate the right way around?
Are you supporting the box with a stand of some description? Make sure the stand is free to move in the direction you need it to. You shouldn’t have to lever the box in, just a bit of wiggling should do it.
Alternatively, put your fingers in the space, it’s bound to go then!!
Edited by Little Pete on Monday 14th January 13:37
Little Pete said:
Unless you’ve got something trapped between the engine and box it’s sure to be an alignment issue.
I would take the box back out and check.
Is the drive plate the right way around?
Are you supporting the box with a stand of some description? Make sure the stand is free to move in the direction you need it to. You shouldn’t have to lever the box in, just a bit of wiggling should do it.
Alternatively, put your fingers in the space, it’s bound to go then!!
There's nothing trapped, i'm using a hoist chain and a gearbox adapter plate on a jack. I would take the box back out and check.
Is the drive plate the right way around?
Are you supporting the box with a stand of some description? Make sure the stand is free to move in the direction you need it to. You shouldn’t have to lever the box in, just a bit of wiggling should do it.
Alternatively, put your fingers in the space, it’s bound to go then!!
Edited by Little Pete on Monday 14th January 13:37
I obviously used an alignment tool and couldn't have been more careful putting pressure plate on, no amount of wiggling is making it go that final cm, damnit.
I'll try the finger pokey thing, sure to work knowing my luck!
t400ble said:
Not just stuck on a dowel etc?
Doesn't seem to be stuck at any one side, yet kind of hard to tell doing it yourself, when pushing gearbox in it isn't twistig to one side like its snagging.I have long studs all the way round as well as the two locating oem ones which worked a treat last time.
I'll back the gearbox back out and use my seemingly utterly useless alignment tool again on the plate and clutch.
Depending on the stroke of the release bearing needed to release the clutch you could carefully depress the clutch pedal whilst wiggling the gearbox slightly.
This may allow the friction plate to move and align the input shaft with the spigot bearing. I’ve used this method very occasionally with multi plate clutches, it’s risky and a last resort.
Of course the gearbox won’t go in when the clutch is depressed.
You also need to ensure all the bolts are holding the gearbox square.
This may allow the friction plate to move and align the input shaft with the spigot bearing. I’ve used this method very occasionally with multi plate clutches, it’s risky and a last resort.
Of course the gearbox won’t go in when the clutch is depressed.
You also need to ensure all the bolts are holding the gearbox square.
AlfaSpider said:
Depending on the stroke of the release bearing needed to release the clutch you could carefully depress the clutch pedal whilst wiggling the gearbox slightly.
This may allow the friction plate to move and align the input shaft with the spigot bearing. I’ve used this method very occasionally with multi plate clutches, it’s risky and a last resort.
Of course the gearbox won’t go in when the clutch is depressed.
You also need to ensure all the bolts are holding the gearbox square.
Sounds like a plan, i'll give it ago later, thanks. This may allow the friction plate to move and align the input shaft with the spigot bearing. I’ve used this method very occasionally with multi plate clutches, it’s risky and a last resort.
Of course the gearbox won’t go in when the clutch is depressed.
You also need to ensure all the bolts are holding the gearbox square.
I was tempted to pull the gearbox in my MR2 the last cm with the bolts, after repeatedly doing them up finger tight and wiggling to get that far.
It turned out the spigot bearing I'd replaced was to suit a conventional RWD gearbox, while the MR2 box doesn't need one, and in fact it fouled the input shaft (by about a cm)
If I'd kept on tightening, I would probably have wrecked the box.
It turned out the spigot bearing I'd replaced was to suit a conventional RWD gearbox, while the MR2 box doesn't need one, and in fact it fouled the input shaft (by about a cm)
If I'd kept on tightening, I would probably have wrecked the box.
shirt said:
Unless it can be manipulated by hand then don’t do it. If you jack using the screws you risk damaging the clutch. There are few things worse than finishing an engine swap, successfully starting the car then not being able to get it in gear.
Well i've just gone through that! I was given the wrong flywheel for the car and the slight difference between the new and old one passed me by! I won't be drawing it in by the bolts, although i have heard people do this and be lucky and get away with it!
I'm pretty sure mines is just misailgned slightly and touching the spigot bearing edge, can't understand even using clutch centring tool(just the plastic wheel type that doesn't go in spigot) how i didn't get away with it.
I do actually have the other type that is basically just a bolt and bobbins of different sizes that slide on it, but none fitted the damn spigot inner diameter! Typical.
After fighting it for this long it would be worth pulling the two parts apart, inspecting the pilot bearing and spigot and doing a sanity check with a couple of straight edges to make sure the spigot is in the right place relative to the mounting face.
If you're keen/desperate, you could even put a dab of paint on the end of the spigot and see where it leaves the witness mark to see what sort of misalignment you're getting.
If you're keen/desperate, you could even put a dab of paint on the end of the spigot and see where it leaves the witness mark to see what sort of misalignment you're getting.
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