Waxing/ Polishing advice needed
Discussion
Just been looking at the paintwork on my newly acquired V8 Vantage ( 2 months but only driven twice ). The car was supposed to have been supplied with an Autoglym Autoshine protection and I did get a bag of products with it.
The car is Oynx black and should have a bright sparkling finish. If I look closely at the bodywork it seems to be covered in small ( less than 5mm ) blotches. I have washed an area and then applied Autoglym resin polish which clears up the blemishes.
My initial action was to plan to polish the entire car but upon reflection am thinking perhaps a wax application is better.
So my question is how should I proceed? Wash, polish and then wax or just wash and wax?
Any advice greatly appreciated plus recommendations on wax products .
Cheers, David.
The car is Oynx black and should have a bright sparkling finish. If I look closely at the bodywork it seems to be covered in small ( less than 5mm ) blotches. I have washed an area and then applied Autoglym resin polish which clears up the blemishes.
My initial action was to plan to polish the entire car but upon reflection am thinking perhaps a wax application is better.
So my question is how should I proceed? Wash, polish and then wax or just wash and wax?
Any advice greatly appreciated plus recommendations on wax products .
Cheers, David.
Polishing is usually very mildly abrasive to remove blemishes, before waxing or sealing with a top coat. However, in my experience, polishing by hand is hard work to get any kind of meaningful result (blemish reduction) Some polishes do have fillers in them which help the appearance of minor swirls, but to do the job properly you really want a machine polish.
Hence, I would go for the option of wash it, and apply wax, that should last you until summer and you can give it some more love then
...if you want the onyx black paintwork perfect then a professional detail with machine polish, and application of long lasting polymer sealant (like gtechniq) would be my choice on a black car. My previous Vantage was onyx black, i had it done at 12 months old by Gtechniq, then re-applied 3 years later. In between I just used to wash and occasionally top up the shine for special occasions. The polymer coating really made it easy to clean and take care of.
Hence, I would go for the option of wash it, and apply wax, that should last you until summer and you can give it some more love then
...if you want the onyx black paintwork perfect then a professional detail with machine polish, and application of long lasting polymer sealant (like gtechniq) would be my choice on a black car. My previous Vantage was onyx black, i had it done at 12 months old by Gtechniq, then re-applied 3 years later. In between I just used to wash and occasionally top up the shine for special occasions. The polymer coating really made it easy to clean and take care of.
Hi
Autoglym super resin polish has fillers and is both easy to apply and remove, just do not put on too much as this gains no benefit other than to waste product
I would wash dry polish the wax I use either Autoglym UHD wax or one called Morpheus from Black Magic Detailling on my Onyx black vantage and as in attached pic get a good result
If you go down the ceramic coating route remember you need perfect paint prior to application otherwise all the defects ie swirls and or blemishes will be sealed under the coating
Autoglym super resin polish has fillers and is both easy to apply and remove, just do not put on too much as this gains no benefit other than to waste product
I would wash dry polish the wax I use either Autoglym UHD wax or one called Morpheus from Black Magic Detailling on my Onyx black vantage and as in attached pic get a good result
If you go down the ceramic coating route remember you need perfect paint prior to application otherwise all the defects ie swirls and or blemishes will be sealed under the coating
Hi
Autoglym super resin polish has fillers and is both easy to apply and remove, just do not put on too much as this gains no benefit other than to waste product
I would wash dry polish the wax I use either Autoglym UHD wax or one called Morpheus from Black Magic Detailling on my Onyx black vantage and as in attached pic get a good result
If you go down the ceramic coating route remember you need perfect paint prior to application otherwise all the defects ie swirls and or blemishes will be sealed under the coating
Autoglym super resin polish has fillers and is both easy to apply and remove, just do not put on too much as this gains no benefit other than to waste product
I would wash dry polish the wax I use either Autoglym UHD wax or one called Morpheus from Black Magic Detailling on my Onyx black vantage and as in attached pic get a good result
If you go down the ceramic coating route remember you need perfect paint prior to application otherwise all the defects ie swirls and or blemishes will be sealed under the coating
imo the car will need a proper wash, then a light machine polish all over to clear any imperfections. After this you can apply a quality wax of you choice knowing that the paint will now be protected.
If you want to try a good wax at a great price,(better than AG) Bilt Hamber Double speed wax 250ml comes with a lovely polishing cloth as well
If you want to try a good wax at a great price,(better than AG) Bilt Hamber Double speed wax 250ml comes with a lovely polishing cloth as well
I suspect the Autoglym stuff was just sloshed on without any paint correction first. It's a rare car that comes from the factory with immaculate paintwork, and I'd be amazed if yours was polished prior to the Autoglym being applied.
I'd be inclined to start with a clay cloth, which is an excellent way to remove lighter imperfections as well as to pick up any stray bits of contaminant clogging up your paintwork. Meguiars do a clay cloth which works well, lubricated either with a strongish concentrate of car shampoo. After that, polish and wax. As per previous posts, Autoglym super resin polish and HD wax are great.
For the best finish I'd just get it detailed. It'll cost somewhere from £300 upwards, but the finish will be incredible (and long lasting).
I'd be inclined to start with a clay cloth, which is an excellent way to remove lighter imperfections as well as to pick up any stray bits of contaminant clogging up your paintwork. Meguiars do a clay cloth which works well, lubricated either with a strongish concentrate of car shampoo. After that, polish and wax. As per previous posts, Autoglym super resin polish and HD wax are great.
For the best finish I'd just get it detailed. It'll cost somewhere from £300 upwards, but the finish will be incredible (and long lasting).
cayman-black said:
Excellent Neil.
It's in the Frequently Asked Questions Wiki.Oh, and it wasn't me that put it together, that was Paddy328 the forums well known detailer. When he first put it together it get getting deleted as it was seen as advertising. So we agreed to publish it in my name,
My Onxy Black vantage 06 has been neglected (paint-wise) for a few years before I owned it and the paint was definitely in bad condition.
I used a Rupes Bigfoot polisher with the 4 grades of Rupes pads and 4 grades of polish supplied, I did a very thorough clean and clay bar first to remove any dirt. Basically you polish the car 4 times over. The Bigfoot makes it very easy.
I also used 3000 grit paper to VERY gently sand back rough spots and deep scratches (don't do this unless you're really comfortable with paint work). You can buy a de-nibbing tool from most automotive paint store which is basically 3000 grit paper dots on a handle for taking bumps down. Just don't sand much or you'll go right through the clear coat. Leave this to a pro if in any doubt.
I chose a carnauba wax rather than a ceramic coating, but the ceramics are getting better and better. (there's still debate which is better, I don't have a strong opinion either way)
I used a Rupes Bigfoot polisher with the 4 grades of Rupes pads and 4 grades of polish supplied, I did a very thorough clean and clay bar first to remove any dirt. Basically you polish the car 4 times over. The Bigfoot makes it very easy.
I also used 3000 grit paper to VERY gently sand back rough spots and deep scratches (don't do this unless you're really comfortable with paint work). You can buy a de-nibbing tool from most automotive paint store which is basically 3000 grit paper dots on a handle for taking bumps down. Just don't sand much or you'll go right through the clear coat. Leave this to a pro if in any doubt.
I chose a carnauba wax rather than a ceramic coating, but the ceramics are getting better and better. (there's still debate which is better, I don't have a strong opinion either way)
I've had great results with McGuires 3 stage and carnuba wax. Always was with two buckets. In addition I purchased a 'Raceglaze' water filter to rinse cars. It does away with having to use a leather or similar to dry the car. You rinse and leave the car and it does not leave a water mark anywhere, even on the other 'arfs black car. The cost of replacing the internal resin a year is no more than new supply of appropriate leathers etc. It really does work and so leaves no marks in wax from drying.
I just recently went to a Meguirs seminar half day at their Northants HQ, many thanks to our local AMOC. I did not learn anything new regarding how to use a DA or how to clay your car, but at least it confirmed that I was not doing anything wrong. They gave a concise run down on their products, I had found that their Gold Class carnuba wax to be the best. I have tried many differing brands but was very happy with the Gold Class, easy on and easy off with a good shine delivered. They (Meguirs) advised that their newish NXT wax would be an improvement over the Goldclass, purchased some and must agree with them. I would not go back to the Gold class now, still have some left but that will go on her indoors vehicle.
macdeb said:
I've had great results with McGuires 3 stage and carnuba wax. Always was with two buckets. In addition I purchased a 'Raceglaze' water filter to rinse cars. It does away with having to use a leather or similar to dry the car. You rinse and leave the car and it does not leave a water mark anywhere, even on the other 'arfs black car. The cost of replacing the internal resin a year is no more than new supply of appropriate leathers etc. It really does work and so leaves no marks in wax from drying.
Auto Glym do an squirty Aqua-Wax which is quick and easy to use on a wet car and makes the water just run away. Its almost easier than drying and prevents water marks, important on darker colours.Update — Autoglym have been very responsive showing concern about my issue and asking for more detail and photos. Their next step will be to send a specialist to inspect the car.
The only issue is that they do not recognise my guarantee number as the dealer I purchased car from hasn’t registered that the car has had the treatment ( 2 months after purchase ) !
Life shouldn’t be so difficult - - dealer has promised to sort out today but nothing received yet!!!
The only issue is that they do not recognise my guarantee number as the dealer I purchased car from hasn’t registered that the car has had the treatment ( 2 months after purchase ) !
Life shouldn’t be so difficult - - dealer has promised to sort out today but nothing received yet!!!
I now have my money back from the dealer for the Autoglym treatment he incorrectly applied to my car!
I’d like to get the car bodywork treated properly before any other coating applied ie paint correction and detailing.
Any recommendations of detailers in South Somerset/ East Devon area gratefully received.
Thanks , David.
I’d like to get the car bodywork treated properly before any other coating applied ie paint correction and detailing.
Any recommendations of detailers in South Somerset/ East Devon area gratefully received.
Thanks , David.
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff