Griff heater void
Discussion
Refurb of my Griff heater as a substitute for the leatherette covering the area above thinking of using firestone rubber roofing membrane any suggestions welcome making new bracket this time in alloy plate , thought motor was siezing screeching noise. Only rust piece's getting jammed in fan , not one of Tvrs best ideas ![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/xyz0RWEM.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/El7fEccb" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/El7fEccb.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/EIBztEQ4" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/EIBztEQ4.jpg)
The heater box itself is above the front of the footwell.
The fan is under the near side headlight. So, with the fan on, the whole of the near side wing is pressurised. The air inlet is low down beside the radiator in the engine bay. TVR used a leather type material to seal the void and stop air escaping back into the engine bay.
Mine had about an inch of mud in the bottom and the metal brackets as well as the fan was heavily corroded.
The only way in is to remove the headlight., although I suppose you could cut an access hole either in the engine bay or wheel arch.
I discovered mine by accident, as I removed the headlight for other reasons and thought "OMG" or slightly stronger words.
As said by the OP, not TVRs finest bit of design.
The fan is under the near side headlight. So, with the fan on, the whole of the near side wing is pressurised. The air inlet is low down beside the radiator in the engine bay. TVR used a leather type material to seal the void and stop air escaping back into the engine bay.
Mine had about an inch of mud in the bottom and the metal brackets as well as the fan was heavily corroded.
The only way in is to remove the headlight., although I suppose you could cut an access hole either in the engine bay or wheel arch.
I discovered mine by accident, as I removed the headlight for other reasons and thought "OMG" or slightly stronger words.
As said by the OP, not TVRs finest bit of design.
I found these pictures by someone on PH who has used tumble dryer hosing and fittings to duct air between the inner and outer wings into the heater matrix. Later cars of course moved the fan to a space adjacent to the passenger's left ankle. Maybe the OP of the photos will come along with advice?
BIG DUNC said:
That is all great for the motor end. but what is doesn't show is how it is connected at the heater end.
If that pipe is just stuffed up the inner wing then it is a bit pointless.
If it goes directly into the heater, that is excellent and we need more details.
I'm afraid to say that's exactly why I copied the 500 installation and moved my heater fan and mounted it directly on the heater box. Its a lot of work but a must if you use your Griffith in the Winter.If that pipe is just stuffed up the inner wing then it is a bit pointless.
If it goes directly into the heater, that is excellent and we need more details.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=12...
BIG DUNC said:
The heater box itself is above the front of the footwell.
The fan is under the near side headlight. So, with the fan on, the whole of the near side wing is pressurised. The air inlet is low down beside the radiator in the engine bay. TVR used a leather type material to seal the void and stop air escaping back into the engine bay.
Mine had about an inch of mud in the bottom and the metal brackets as well as the fan was heavily corroded.
The only way in is to remove the headlight., although I suppose you could cut an access hole either in the engine bay or wheel arch.
I discovered mine by accident, as I removed the headlight for other reasons and thought "OMG" or slightly stronger words.
As said by the OP, not TVRs finest bit of design.
Agreed, Mickey Mouse or what ! The fan is under the near side headlight. So, with the fan on, the whole of the near side wing is pressurised. The air inlet is low down beside the radiator in the engine bay. TVR used a leather type material to seal the void and stop air escaping back into the engine bay.
Mine had about an inch of mud in the bottom and the metal brackets as well as the fan was heavily corroded.
The only way in is to remove the headlight., although I suppose you could cut an access hole either in the engine bay or wheel arch.
I discovered mine by accident, as I removed the headlight for other reasons and thought "OMG" or slightly stronger words.
As said by the OP, not TVRs finest bit of design.
Do be aware that the heater bearings wear out over time and the bearings start to seize up.
As a consequence, while they are dying they draw more current.
I am not aware of the Griff heater control box set up - my 99 Chimaera (easily identifiable by the flake on top
) has repeatedly overheated its dashboard heater control boxes in recent years. I have had the latest blown one repaired by Python Racing near Colchester for £105, but during the course of the testing process my local auto-electrician burnt his fingers on the wires he has holding as he applied current to the fan to test it. The wires in question are in the footwell left hand wall, just under the carpet in front of the door, and go straight to the fan. He also told me that it was drawing way too much current, and was likely to cause a fire, and not to use the fan until it had been replaced.
My TVR guru Mat Smith (other TVR gurus are available) now has a new fan on order for me. The TVR one is no longer available, but it is possible to get e replacement that is a similar fit and can be installed by any competent engineer with a bit of adjusting. The bonus after this wallet pain is that the new one will deliver more warm air - anything more than bugger all would be a pleasant change.
Just thought I would pass this on - a lot more people read these forums than actually post.
As a consequence, while they are dying they draw more current.
I am not aware of the Griff heater control box set up - my 99 Chimaera (easily identifiable by the flake on top
) has repeatedly overheated its dashboard heater control boxes in recent years. I have had the latest blown one repaired by Python Racing near Colchester for £105, but during the course of the testing process my local auto-electrician burnt his fingers on the wires he has holding as he applied current to the fan to test it. The wires in question are in the footwell left hand wall, just under the carpet in front of the door, and go straight to the fan. He also told me that it was drawing way too much current, and was likely to cause a fire, and not to use the fan until it had been replaced.My TVR guru Mat Smith (other TVR gurus are available) now has a new fan on order for me. The TVR one is no longer available, but it is possible to get e replacement that is a similar fit and can be installed by any competent engineer with a bit of adjusting. The bonus after this wallet pain is that the new one will deliver more warm air - anything more than bugger all would be a pleasant change.
Just thought I would pass this on - a lot more people read these forums than actually post.
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