Mk 1 FHC UJ change rear driveshaft
Discussion
Hi,need the best way to remove near side rear driveshaft to replace inner/outer joints.Not touched this area as a newbie owner.Can you firstly loosen hub nut (normal rotation on near side?) jack up remove wheel ,take off shock absorber,remove diff Flange bolts and if enough room remove driveshaft inwards? don't fancy changing them on the car.Is there a better method? with a new hub nut -torque loading - 230 lbs ft? Any help much appreciated Dave
Dave, you have pretty well summed up the process for removing the rear drive shaft. I've replaced the UJ's both on and off the car but I would say it's easier to do it off the car.
The hub nuts both have the same thread so normal anti-clockwise to undo... this is why you see a few cars with the N/S wheel coming off. Worth using a new nut with thread lock and a split pin when you put it back together. Keep a note of the shims between the drive shaft and disk (if there are any). If you don't like the idea of removing the hub not you could remove the trailing arm with the drive shaft but it may need some pieces of exhaust removing (not too sure on this as I have never done it). Cheers Steve
The hub nuts both have the same thread so normal anti-clockwise to undo... this is why you see a few cars with the N/S wheel coming off. Worth using a new nut with thread lock and a split pin when you put it back together. Keep a note of the shims between the drive shaft and disk (if there are any). If you don't like the idea of removing the hub not you could remove the trailing arm with the drive shaft but it may need some pieces of exhaust removing (not too sure on this as I have never done it). Cheers Steve
If it's an early FHC, then some of them had removable hub castings with 4 long bolts holding it to the trailing arm.
This saves a load of hassle with undoing the hub nuts, and you can then get half shaft on the bench and get to both UJs......
But later ones had an all-in-one trailing arm.
This saves a load of hassle with undoing the hub nuts, and you can then get half shaft on the bench and get to both UJs......
But later ones had an all-in-one trailing arm.
Yeah but I heard that the bolts securing the hub carrier are susually chemically welded due to electrolytic action between aly and steel.
Personally I keep the hub intact and remove the trailing arm and undo the driveshaft and lower link at the back.
This saves messing with the bearing and that big retorque.
Personally I keep the hub intact and remove the trailing arm and undo the driveshaft and lower link at the back.
This saves messing with the bearing and that big retorque.
Looks like I'll be doing an inner UJ today.
However the 400SX is A-frame, not trailing arm.
One advantage is that the hub can be swivelled right around and the driveshaft hangs out of the wheelarch, allowing easy access to the inner UJ which can be extracted with the help of a big vice.
However the 400SX is A-frame, not trailing arm.
One advantage is that the hub can be swivelled right around and the driveshaft hangs out of the wheelarch, allowing easy access to the inner UJ which can be extracted with the help of a big vice.
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