Starting a long term unused car
Discussion
Would appreciate advise from the more knowledgeable.
Car hasn't been started for about 18 months - has been parked on the driveway during this time - but now want to get it running and moved (sold) on.
Obviously, battery will need charging but, bearing in mind the time frame the vehicle hasn't been used, is there anything else I should check or replace before attempting to start the vehicle?
Is it a simple case of checking fluids (coolant, brake, engine oil) or should these really be changed?
I guess the brakes will be seized so may need to take a mallet to them.
What about engine (oil?) seals?
Would welcome any guidance so I can get the relevant items sorted.
(BTW, car is a Golf Mk4 1.8 Turbo).
Car hasn't been started for about 18 months - has been parked on the driveway during this time - but now want to get it running and moved (sold) on.
Obviously, battery will need charging but, bearing in mind the time frame the vehicle hasn't been used, is there anything else I should check or replace before attempting to start the vehicle?
Is it a simple case of checking fluids (coolant, brake, engine oil) or should these really be changed?
I guess the brakes will be seized so may need to take a mallet to them.
What about engine (oil?) seals?
Would welcome any guidance so I can get the relevant items sorted.
(BTW, car is a Golf Mk4 1.8 Turbo).
I'm in a similar position with my Mk4 V5, that's not moved in the past 3 years.
I plan to check the fluids, remove the coil packs and then crank it on the starter motor to get the oil pumping and pressure.
If this all goes well, I'll then trailer it to the local indy to get all the fluids drained and refilled, and hopefully get it through the MOT.
I plan to check the fluids, remove the coil packs and then crank it on the starter motor to get the oil pumping and pressure.
If this all goes well, I'll then trailer it to the local indy to get all the fluids drained and refilled, and hopefully get it through the MOT.
To be honest I have had a car sat still for more like 3 years, covered on the driveway. I put a new fully charged battery in, started it up and it ran no problem at all. Admittedly, it's still SORN so before I start using it again fully, I would have it fully serviced etc. (2010 Twingo 133)
If you're concerned about leaks then by all means check round the car in case but assuming the coolant/oil hadn't been in the car for thousands of miles prior to it being laid up, I can't see an issue with it.
If you're concerned about leaks then by all means check round the car in case but assuming the coolant/oil hadn't been in the car for thousands of miles prior to it being laid up, I can't see an issue with it.
If you're just doing a short trip to put it in storage or something, battery & squish the brake pedal to free them up, don't want the pads sticking or anything like that.
Longer term, bringing it back to life - you'd be well advised to do all those things you've mentioned, including a tyre check as you don't want to be on the road with perished rubber on the tarmac. Replacing all fluids and the stale fuel will be a priority, get the golf to a garage if you aren't inclined to do these jobs yourself. :-)
Longer term, bringing it back to life - you'd be well advised to do all those things you've mentioned, including a tyre check as you don't want to be on the road with perished rubber on the tarmac. Replacing all fluids and the stale fuel will be a priority, get the golf to a garage if you aren't inclined to do these jobs yourself. :-)
I parked up an MR2 about 2 years ago in a granted it was in a mates garage, about 3 weeks ago i had to move it out of the garage and bring it home.
At the time of parking it up i had removed the battery, when i went to start it a few weeks ago i checked the water levels, oil, connected the battery and fired it up. Pulled it out of the garage and i had to pump up the tyres, brakes were bit seized but freed them easily, but otherwise it was fine to drive home.
Its only 18 months you will be fine.
At the time of parking it up i had removed the battery, when i went to start it a few weeks ago i checked the water levels, oil, connected the battery and fired it up. Pulled it out of the garage and i had to pump up the tyres, brakes were bit seized but freed them easily, but otherwise it was fine to drive home.
Its only 18 months you will be fine.
Really appreciate all the advice.
Plan is to check what I can and then try and get it to my mechanic so he can service it.
There is mention of stale fuel - should I definitely not start the car then?
Also, will the cambelt still be OK - it's next scheduled change is in the Autumn but I hope to move the car on before then and will obviously factor this in the price.
Plan is to check what I can and then try and get it to my mechanic so he can service it.
There is mention of stale fuel - should I definitely not start the car then?
Also, will the cambelt still be OK - it's next scheduled change is in the Autumn but I hope to move the car on before then and will obviously factor this in the price.
SpeedBash said:
There is mention of stale fuel - should I definitely not start the car then?
It'll start fine and I've no doubt run ok as well. I can't say I've noticed older fuel being problematic despite seeing stale fuel being referenced. I'm sure someone can explain in proper detail but personally I don't see an issue with using the fuel and then giving it a full tank of V-Power.
I bought a motorbike that had been sat for about three years. It was carbed, hadn't been winterised before parking up (fuel left for long periods turns into a gum inside carbs), and it started fine with a fresh battery. I threw a tank of branded super through it ASAP and when I later stripped the carbs as part of a proper service and once-over, they looked like brand new. No gumming or anything. That was the day I started to believe the stories the fuel companies tell us about their fancy cleaning additives.
Lob a tank of V-Power through it and it'll be fine.
Lob a tank of V-Power through it and it'll be fine.
Denis O said:
I saw something recently that suggested pulling the spark plugs, squirting a little diesel in each cylinder, wait a while then turn the engine over. It'll squirt the diesel out and lubricate the pistons and bores. Put the plugs back and fire her up.
I'd be worried if it was that seized after 18 months!Just be careful that once started the clutch spinner could be stuck to the flywheel, if it is, there are 2 ways to free it.
1) Press the clutch a few times, put it into the gear you want, ie forwards / reverse, press footbrake hard, start engine. if it doesn't work first few times. you need to get the engine hot. including the flywheel, that will take a bit of time,
2) Do as above but without holding it on the footbrake, but be ready to knock it out of gear quickly, drive it about, on gear shift times, get engine revs / speed correct, press clutch os normal and sooner or later it will free off.. You have to be very handy at knocking it out of gear if need be.
1) Press the clutch a few times, put it into the gear you want, ie forwards / reverse, press footbrake hard, start engine. if it doesn't work first few times. you need to get the engine hot. including the flywheel, that will take a bit of time,
2) Do as above but without holding it on the footbrake, but be ready to knock it out of gear quickly, drive it about, on gear shift times, get engine revs / speed correct, press clutch os normal and sooner or later it will free off.. You have to be very handy at knocking it out of gear if need be.
I would treat it like the first start of an unknown engine that had just been fitted..
Check all fluids and then crank it over with the coil/cam sensor disconnected until I saw oil pressure and then just start it.
If under half a tank of fuel I would top it up with super and try and keep off prolonged boost until you next fill up.
Brake discs will typically sort themselves after 18months, unless you live by the sea.
Wacky Racer said:
GreatGranny said:
Charge battery.
make sure it's got fuel.
Sit in car.
Start car
It's only 18 months.
This.make sure it's got fuel.
Sit in car.
Start car
It's only 18 months.
You might find the brakes have stuck on, DON'T attack them with a mallet.
Gafferjim said:
Just be careful that once started the clutch spinner could be stuck to the flywheel, if it is, there are 2 ways to free it.
1) Press the clutch a few times, put it into the gear you want, ie forwards / reverse, press footbrake hard, start engine. if it doesn't work first few times. you need to get the engine hot. including the flywheel, that will take a bit of time,
2) Do as above but without holding it on the footbrake, but be ready to knock it out of gear quickly, drive it about, on gear shift times, get engine revs / speed correct, press clutch os normal and sooner or later it will free off.. You have to be very handy at knocking it out of gear if need be.
I used to start car with driven wheels on axle stand in gear, let it run for 10 mins then clutch was free.1) Press the clutch a few times, put it into the gear you want, ie forwards / reverse, press footbrake hard, start engine. if it doesn't work first few times. you need to get the engine hot. including the flywheel, that will take a bit of time,
2) Do as above but without holding it on the footbrake, but be ready to knock it out of gear quickly, drive it about, on gear shift times, get engine revs / speed correct, press clutch os normal and sooner or later it will free off.. You have to be very handy at knocking it out of gear if need be.
I'd only recommend if you know what you are doing and you need to chock non driven wheels!!
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff