M96 (996/997) replacing belt and tensioners

[Filibuster]

Good evening all

While the weather is cold and the roads are salty (I'm in Switzerland) I'm doing some minor maintenance stuff on my 997.1 C2.
I will add a full write up on my readers cars thread later, when a bit more of the work is done. For now I'm stuck with a problem I hope someone can help me out with.

I wanted to replace the drive belt and all three rollers. I got an original Porsche belt and the rollers from Meyle.
When I wanted to release pressure by turning the tensioning pulley, it wouldn't move, but just turn around the nut. Since I wanted to change everything I just cut looose the old belt. Then I got a 15mm wrench behind the pulley and took it off. Now my engine bay it looks like this:



Now I have run into two problems. One is that I can't get out the bolt (number 4 in the parts diagram) without disassembling the whole lot. Not really a problem, since I could just reuse it. But I find it incredibly hard, or better impossible, to turn the tensioner lever (number 3) clockwise. Is there a possibility to loosen it up and spray some grease on it without taking the whole unit out? How much force should the lever apply? (maybe I'm just trying not hard enough...)



The bolt doesn't look like it's had thread locker on it. The new bolt supplied with the Meyle kit comes with red thread locker applied to it. If I'm reusing the existing one, should I use Loctite 243 (blue/medium) or 270 (red/heavy)?

Thanks very much in advance for all help!

[Filibuster]

I used a ratchet to turn it clockwise, but the pulley was just spinning (along with bolt Nr. 4) instead of turning the lever.

[Filibuster]

I do understand what you say as you are describing what should happen. The problem is that the 24mm Hex screw is just spinning, alongside the 15mm bolt from the rear, when I applied force to it. The tension arm wouldn‘t move at all.

Firstly I tried to tighten the 24mm Hex, but to no avail. It just turned loose the two screws. Then I cut the belt and removed the tensioner pulley.

Hope this makes sense....

[fot0]

I remember a fair bit of tension on the pulley to get the belt back on, but should be easier with the pulley in place using the 24mm wrench. I think I used a breaker bar to lean on as I push the belt back in place.

If you cannot shift the bolt as per photo I would be inclined to leave it as you've done the hard work already. With the replacement have you measured whether you have space with the new bolt 15mm? As it looks like the rear assembly may need removing as well and will just complicate matters with access.

There is a good article on 'Pelican Parts 996 engine'.

[Filibuster]

It seems others have had the same problem, according to this rennlist thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/564327-belt-...

Thanks for the tip re the Pelican Parts DIY section. I have the book by Wayne Dempsey, in german none the less! (It's nothing more than all the articles printed out and then some more. really convenient to have a hard copy while working than a mobile phone!)

This is the Meyle kit for the tensioner pulley (random google image):



As I see it, the red thread locker is also on the head of the 15mm nut. This is where I need enough friction of the bolt against the tensioner lever i.e. more than the force to turn the lever (I'm neither an engineer, nor is english my mother tongue. I hope you understand what i mean)
I will clean the nut while in place with a brass wire brush and degrease it, before applying Loctite on the same areas, before torquing it with 60NM (44ft/lb).

Now do I use blue 243, as described by Dempsey, or should I be going for the red 270 stuff??

[Bullet-Proof_Biscuit]

No experience but I can't see how that bolt would hold when levering against the tensioner.

As you saw thread lock the thread and mating face of the bolt & tighten to spec, wait for it to cure, then lever against the bolt again to fit the belt.