Tuscan door not opening
Discussion
Hi all, I've looked back through the door opening threads, but want to confirm my thoughts. Laying over the tunnel from the passenger side to pull the red handle with my a**e in the air is not dignified, so i need to fix it.
The problem I have is an intermittent drivers door not opening. When it fails, it fails on both the mirror and radio panel buttons i.e neither button works, but there is a relay clicking in the dash somwehere and the window does lower. The red handle opens the door, but it doesn't seem to then free it up on future attempts.
My thoughts are either the door control unit (in front of the gear lever) or a bad connection at the solenoid. Being able to hear the relay makes me think the latter?
Anyone have any pearls of wisdom?
J
The problem I have is an intermittent drivers door not opening. When it fails, it fails on both the mirror and radio panel buttons i.e neither button works, but there is a relay clicking in the dash somwehere and the window does lower. The red handle opens the door, but it doesn't seem to then free it up on future attempts.
My thoughts are either the door control unit (in front of the gear lever) or a bad connection at the solenoid. Being able to hear the relay makes me think the latter?
Anyone have any pearls of wisdom?
J
Ah, the old Tuscan door gremlins at work again... I've had my share of issues during my ownership, and (touch wood) they seem to have recently been banished by replacing the cheap black solenoids with the Ford OEM versions (white casing), and having both door ECUs refurbished by Paul Smith through Str8Six.
In your case, since the passenger door is working fine, have you considered swapping the door ECUs to see if the problem moves across to the passenger side? If not then that would likely indicate a fault at the solenoid, which could be confirmed by swapping across the passenger and driver's side solenoids, but personally I'd start with the ECUs simply on the basis that they're much easier to access than the solenoids!
In your case, since the passenger door is working fine, have you considered swapping the door ECUs to see if the problem moves across to the passenger side? If not then that would likely indicate a fault at the solenoid, which could be confirmed by swapping across the passenger and driver's side solenoids, but personally I'd start with the ECUs simply on the basis that they're much easier to access than the solenoids!
As said, swap the ECU's over as a first step. I've just repaired both of mine as they very occasionally decided to play up. They seem to suffer from dry solder joints on the actual pins down to the board, very easy to re-flow or re-solder the joints and have been fine since. The ecu's open up with just 4 screws and the board slides out of the casing so worth a quick look.
smighall said:
As said, swap the ECU's over as a first step. I've just repaired both of mine as they very occasionally decided to play up. They seem to suffer from dry solder joints on the actual pins down to the board, very easy to re-flow or re-solder the joints and have been fine since. The ecu's open up with just 4 screws and the board slides out of the casing so worth a quick look.
^^^That's a good heads up! Any particular pins? - or was it a case of doing them all?I've got a similar problem to OP>
Nick.
Mine was different pins on each ECU. With it out of the case just give it a gentle wiggle and if you see any movement reflow the joint, or at least that's what i did.
Equally it isn't going to hurt to just reflow all of them anyway......given it's a free potential fix, nothing lost in trying.
Equally it isn't going to hurt to just reflow all of them anyway......given it's a free potential fix, nothing lost in trying.
Well, that almost went according to plan🤔
The door decided to (mostly) work this weekend, so swapping wouldn't prove anything, so I stripped the PCB out of both housings to have a visual inspdction.. My car is a late 2000, so someone has swapped one in the past (see pictures). The later one must have been repaired as the soldering quality was not as good as the original.
Anyhow, attached are pictures showing the bad joints on the connector daughter board. Re-soldered and all ok, but after replacing the tunnel cover, the passenger side window stopped working.........I'll look at that tomorrow.
And by the way, don't assume the controller on the driver's side controls the driver's side door...........
The door decided to (mostly) work this weekend, so swapping wouldn't prove anything, so I stripped the PCB out of both housings to have a visual inspdction.. My car is a late 2000, so someone has swapped one in the past (see pictures). The later one must have been repaired as the soldering quality was not as good as the original.
Anyhow, attached are pictures showing the bad joints on the connector daughter board. Re-soldered and all ok, but after replacing the tunnel cover, the passenger side window stopped working.........I'll look at that tomorrow.
And by the way, don't assume the controller on the driver's side controls the driver's side door...........
Well at least that definitely shows that was the issue looking at those pictures. As for the window, have you tried to cycle it all the way down then back up again to reset the limits?
Other than that i guess just check all the plugs are properly together, including the small fly lead to the rotary knob itself.
Other than that i guess just check all the plugs are properly together, including the small fly lead to the rotary knob itself.
OK, that's sorted. I tried locking and unlocking last night but that didn't help. Whipped off the tunnel top tonight, reseated the door controller plug (as well as pushing the wires into the plug afterwards) and all is well.
You can tell the difference, no laziness in the solenoid firing, with the window already dropped it fires instantly - well worth the effort, so I decided to carry on........ With the splitter.
You can tell the difference, no laziness in the solenoid firing, with the window already dropped it fires instantly - well worth the effort, so I decided to carry on........ With the splitter.
Gassing Station | Tuscan | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff