Chimaera won't start
Discussion
Car has been off road for over 10 years, past 2 years outside with breathable cover. Put back in garage 3 months ago to dry out fully. New battery put on car along with new Bosch relays for ECU & Fuel Pump. Would not pump fuel, checked with bulb across pump connections & was receiving power. Fitted new Bosch fuel pump & at same time replacement water temperature gauge. Dash panel remained off. Checked water levels, level to top of swirl pot. Car started and ran for approx 15 minutes to warm up. Upon turning off the engine water came out of expansion tank, when cool tank virtually empty.
2 days later refilled swirl pot and refitted dash panel, car would NOT start.
Fitted lights from terminals 87 of ECU & Fuel pump relays. Check cutoff switch under dash, continuity ok.
Ignition switch in ON position& press button on fob. Light on for ECU & 3 seconds for fuel pump. Cranked over light for fuel pump on all time. No fuel pump noise.
Turn key back to Aux. Position & fuel pump runs for approx 1 second. Can repeat this by turning key fro ON to Aux. ECU light stops on approx 3 seconds after taking key out.
Have also put a light across terminals of pump, receiving power. Also tried an earth from pump to battery.
Have ordered a new ignition switch as last resort as immobiliser evens to be working ok.
Has anybody else had these problems, I need help please.
2 days later refilled swirl pot and refitted dash panel, car would NOT start.
Fitted lights from terminals 87 of ECU & Fuel pump relays. Check cutoff switch under dash, continuity ok.
Ignition switch in ON position& press button on fob. Light on for ECU & 3 seconds for fuel pump. Cranked over light for fuel pump on all time. No fuel pump noise.
Turn key back to Aux. Position & fuel pump runs for approx 1 second. Can repeat this by turning key fro ON to Aux. ECU light stops on approx 3 seconds after taking key out.
Have also put a light across terminals of pump, receiving power. Also tried an earth from pump to battery.
Have ordered a new ignition switch as last resort as immobiliser evens to be working ok.
Has anybody else had these problems, I need help please.
It's awkward getting the cooling system rebled, airlocks are common. There are many threads about it on here. Some use a long funnel into the swirl tank to fill up.
I do this if the system need a lot of coolant. Personally, I run the engine until hot with the top of the swirl tank on loosely until bubble stop coming out. The expansion tank should only be about a third full when cold.
I do this if the system need a lot of coolant. Personally, I run the engine until hot with the top of the swirl tank on loosely until bubble stop coming out. The expansion tank should only be about a third full when cold.
Modern fuels tend to go off rather quickly, its hard to say on a forum but I’d defo be replacing the filter if the car has stood, does it smell of fuel up front and are the plugs wet with fuel.
I’d work on getting it going then flush water system and re bleed it up with fresh anti freeze before running it for any length of time.
I’d check air filter and if it’s old just disconnect or replace it so you are sure of getting good air to the engine.
As it’s been stood the fuel components incl injectors can dry out so I’d be looking at good fuel with some injector cleaner/ lube added in for good measure and go from there.
Injector cleaner worked wonders on my injectors that used to clatter a bit, they went quiet almost straight way when I just added Redex. Simples
And I’m sure my idle improved which I’ve never publicly mentioned before as I thought it might have been my imagination but the more I think about it the more I believe it did, just the odd blip when an injector failed to open in correct time and with the lubing effect of the injector cleaner they run smooth and sweet.
Anyway, basics first,
Is there fuel up at the rail and under pressure.
If the engine smells dry it probably is.
Fuel regulator could fail to so keep that in mind.
Hope some of that helps
I’d work on getting it going then flush water system and re bleed it up with fresh anti freeze before running it for any length of time.
I’d check air filter and if it’s old just disconnect or replace it so you are sure of getting good air to the engine.
As it’s been stood the fuel components incl injectors can dry out so I’d be looking at good fuel with some injector cleaner/ lube added in for good measure and go from there.
Injector cleaner worked wonders on my injectors that used to clatter a bit, they went quiet almost straight way when I just added Redex. Simples
And I’m sure my idle improved which I’ve never publicly mentioned before as I thought it might have been my imagination but the more I think about it the more I believe it did, just the odd blip when an injector failed to open in correct time and with the lubing effect of the injector cleaner they run smooth and sweet.
Anyway, basics first,
Is there fuel up at the rail and under pressure.
If the engine smells dry it probably is.
Fuel regulator could fail to so keep that in mind.
Hope some of that helps
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 22 February 11:05
Classic Chim said:
Modern fuels tend to go off rather quickly, its hard to say on a forum but I’d defo be replacing the filter
Good advice. You've run the engine and therefore probably drawn a lot of sediment out of the tank and into the filter. Enough flow to run the engine when warm, but insufficient for cold rich mixture required for cold start. The filter could easily be your problem. I'd also question the fitness of 10yr old fuel. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail.
Have a look at this thread.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Have a look at this thread.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Neathtvr said:
Relays are correct Bosch item from Racetech.
Yes, it seems to prime when turning car off.
Mmm, Tyco bought out Bosch relay manufacturing in 2006Yes, it seems to prime when turning car off.
Have you checked the new relays against the old relays? Are both old relays identical?
I've been supplied relays that aren't configured to what's printed on the case and relays that have different configurations printed on the case and the base
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Friday 22 February 15:56
I would start at the beginning. Disconnect the outlet pipe from the pump, get a someone to hold a petrol can below the pump, go to ign on and immobiliser off and does fuel get pumped? If so then re-connect the pipe to the pump, and disconnect from the filter, re-try the priming. Repeat this all the way down the fuel system until you get unconstricted fuel at the rail.
With old fuel the pipes may well be clogged as well as the filter - replace anything that stops or constricts the flow.
If the pump doesn't prime then connections at the fuse box/relay - quite possible they're manky after so long off the road.
One final point, check the flexible fuel lines from the engine to the firewall and at the pump - they degrade and crack over time. Cause of engine fires in the past.
With old fuel the pipes may well be clogged as well as the filter - replace anything that stops or constricts the flow.
If the pump doesn't prime then connections at the fuse box/relay - quite possible they're manky after so long off the road.
One final point, check the flexible fuel lines from the engine to the firewall and at the pump - they degrade and crack over time. Cause of engine fires in the past.
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