E46 320i stalls
Discussion
Hello,
my e46 320i from 2002 has a problem.
when its cold, and i leave it running on idle, it starts to run on 5 cylinders, when i turn my ignition on/off it then runs fine.
if i hit the gas, and drive, it will stall when i release the gas padel.
this problem only happens when its cold, when the enige is warm, it runs like an charm.
when the garage used there software to read the codes,
all that came out was misfire, and those misfires are random.
there have been so many tests/replacements and i am lost at this point.
the garage did:
- new spark plugs
- new coils
- new battery
- tested my injectors
- replaced my ccv
- preformed a smoke test
- removed my intake to look at all the hoses
- fuel pressure test
- new air mass sensor
- they cleaned the fuel system
- a compression test
all the results from the tests came out good.
what else could there be? the garage and i are lost.
does anyone here know any kind of solution?
any suggestions are welcome at this point.
my e46 320i from 2002 has a problem.
when its cold, and i leave it running on idle, it starts to run on 5 cylinders, when i turn my ignition on/off it then runs fine.
if i hit the gas, and drive, it will stall when i release the gas padel.
this problem only happens when its cold, when the enige is warm, it runs like an charm.
when the garage used there software to read the codes,
all that came out was misfire, and those misfires are random.
there have been so many tests/replacements and i am lost at this point.
the garage did:
- new spark plugs
- new coils
- new battery
- tested my injectors
- replaced my ccv
- preformed a smoke test
- removed my intake to look at all the hoses
- fuel pressure test
- new air mass sensor
- they cleaned the fuel system
- a compression test
all the results from the tests came out good.
what else could there be? the garage and i are lost.
does anyone here know any kind of solution?
any suggestions are welcome at this point.
I'd be looking at cam/crank sensor. Mine did the same (albeit it was more prevalent when warm): https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... I think it was the crank sensor that sorted mine.
Nijman said:
thanks for your reply.
the MAF was replaced by a working one.
those sensor should post some codes tho right>?
Working, was it a genuine one off another BMW?the MAF was replaced by a working one.
those sensor should post some codes tho right>?
the point I'm trying to make is that you say it's working, but is it functioning properly? IMO its best to be replaced with a brand new one from BMW
But, I'd look at the crank/cam sensors first
Nijman said:
its a original one yes.
the same model car, same MAF.
if there was something wrong with the sensors then i should see that back in error's right?
correct me if i am wrong.
the garage said they where fine.
Not always; they can go and not throw a codethe same model car, same MAF.
if there was something wrong with the sensors then i should see that back in error's right?
correct me if i am wrong.
the garage said they where fine.
I'd say get the crank sensor changed first; make sure it's a new genuine sensor via BMW
I used to have the same issue on my E39 525i but not too often - more like when it was not driven for a while. I remember doing a few things to it
I first thought this might be age related - hardening valve seals (180k Miles 13 year old car back then). I duly added both LM Oil Saver and LM Ceratec and with time it seemed to have improved a lot. On a separate note, ever since happily adding LM Ceratec (not OIl Saver though as my oil consumption is now a third of what is used to be from 1L/1.5k to 1L/4k miles - ).Also the engine is quieter than it has ever been, now at 250k miles.
The issue resurfaced again this winter, not as drastic but still, and I found two air leaks, both typical M52TU/M54 issue:
a) at the back of the manifold near the DISA valve there is a hole plugged with a rubber cap - with time this perishes and leaves the hole exposed
b) damaged CCV tube at the very front, leaking air
Both found with my own DIY smoke machine and fixed cheaply.
Now solid as it should be, cold or warm,
As to cam/crank sensors failing here is my experience - I had in both cases bad driveability issues - also if not especially when warm. With the crank sensor the car would just die. Cam sensor issue hasn't stopped me from getting back home (driving back from Greece!). In both cases I had a corresponding error sitting in the memory. Cheap-ish replacement from Febi was incidentally a repackaged OEM stuff from Siemens/VDO (BMW mark ground off).
I first thought this might be age related - hardening valve seals (180k Miles 13 year old car back then). I duly added both LM Oil Saver and LM Ceratec and with time it seemed to have improved a lot. On a separate note, ever since happily adding LM Ceratec (not OIl Saver though as my oil consumption is now a third of what is used to be from 1L/1.5k to 1L/4k miles - ).Also the engine is quieter than it has ever been, now at 250k miles.
The issue resurfaced again this winter, not as drastic but still, and I found two air leaks, both typical M52TU/M54 issue:
a) at the back of the manifold near the DISA valve there is a hole plugged with a rubber cap - with time this perishes and leaves the hole exposed
b) damaged CCV tube at the very front, leaking air
Both found with my own DIY smoke machine and fixed cheaply.
Now solid as it should be, cold or warm,
As to cam/crank sensors failing here is my experience - I had in both cases bad driveability issues - also if not especially when warm. With the crank sensor the car would just die. Cam sensor issue hasn't stopped me from getting back home (driving back from Greece!). In both cases I had a corresponding error sitting in the memory. Cheap-ish replacement from Febi was incidentally a repackaged OEM stuff from Siemens/VDO (BMW mark ground off).
My guess is that with harder valve seals some oil will go down the valve stems overnight and foul the spark plug - bridging or severely reducing the gap leading to no spark condition - missfire, ECU then shuts down that cylinder until the next restart. As the engine has run for a bit, and ventilated the cylinder the affected plug is now much cleaner - no more misfire after the restart.
As said this is just a convenient theory of mine and will happily stand corrected.
I guess there is nothing to lose to try it out, apart from some money 😀. It will take a few days for the LM stuff to start working though. There are many reviews on Amazon both US and UK should you want more info on those two products. I do not work for LM nor have any association whatsoever with them.
As said this is just a convenient theory of mine and will happily stand corrected.
I guess there is nothing to lose to try it out, apart from some money 😀. It will take a few days for the LM stuff to start working though. There are many reviews on Amazon both US and UK should you want more info on those two products. I do not work for LM nor have any association whatsoever with them.
What grade oil does it have fitted? if its too thick the hyd tappets will pump/jack up when cold thus creating misfires and stalling switching off then back on again may give the offending tappet/tappets time to bleed resuming normal operation , the M54 engine is designed to run on light viscosity oils and seeing as these engines can use oil via piston rings owners fit heavy weight oils or oil tonics/treatments to combat the problem (not ideal) may not be your problem but just a suggestion however you need to monitor real time data when the fault is present may also be a falling engine loom etc just to many options without tracking real time data IMO
however you need to monitor real time data when the fault is present may also be a falling engine loom etc just to many options without tracking real time data IMO Edited by Sardonicus on Wednesday 6th March 14:08
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