Cooper S for a 30 mile commute
Discussion
What do I need to worry about?
I’ve got a 30 mile commute each way, main roads mostly, but lots of short stretches on them. I’m looking at a 2010 Cooper S (N18 engine) with 62k and a full service history. Historical MOTs look to be pretty reasonable, predominantly consumable items which should’ve been changed.
Are there big ticket service items/failures likely in the next 12 months or so (bearing in mind around 15k miles per year)?
One other thing I’m interested in is cruise control. My current GTC has both speed limiter and the usual cruise control. Given the type of commute, it’s very rare that I can set the cruise to speed and stay at it without needing to ease off a little, so I like the peace of mind that I can put my foot down and not get a ticket but can still just ease back to slow.
I’ve got a 30 mile commute each way, main roads mostly, but lots of short stretches on them. I’m looking at a 2010 Cooper S (N18 engine) with 62k and a full service history. Historical MOTs look to be pretty reasonable, predominantly consumable items which should’ve been changed.
Are there big ticket service items/failures likely in the next 12 months or so (bearing in mind around 15k miles per year)?
One other thing I’m interested in is cruise control. My current GTC has both speed limiter and the usual cruise control. Given the type of commute, it’s very rare that I can set the cruise to speed and stay at it without needing to ease off a little, so I like the peace of mind that I can put my foot down and not get a ticket but can still just ease back to slow.
Thats the same age and mileage as my clubby, i've owned it near on 6 years, its had a HPFP, vanos soloniod, brakes all round although the rears are corroding again, i have a sports cat and i have it serviced every year - i have all the filters and plugs done, it runs on v power and shell helix oil.
I've gone through 2 tyres in 32k, although i do run winters, i ditched the run flats and fitted a set of pro race 1.2's, it has a power flex front torque arm insert too. On a reasonable run of 15 miles it'll manage 38mpg, on a longer run it will manage high 40's. I'm struggling to find a replacement for mine, its either a new clubby or an XE at the minute.
Pan roofs are nice but make sure they work and also heated screen is worth it, the windscreens can get battered though. Visual boost or nav tidys up the dash.
I've gone through 2 tyres in 32k, although i do run winters, i ditched the run flats and fitted a set of pro race 1.2's, it has a power flex front torque arm insert too. On a reasonable run of 15 miles it'll manage 38mpg, on a longer run it will manage high 40's. I'm struggling to find a replacement for mine, its either a new clubby or an XE at the minute.
Pan roofs are nice but make sure they work and also heated screen is worth it, the windscreens can get battered though. Visual boost or nav tidys up the dash.
I have a cooper s on a 67 plate and I find it a bit fragile. I wouldn't want one for a 30 mile commute as it's a little claustrophobic and if it's short stretches of road at a time then mpg won't be great with all the speed variations.
We have active cruise in ours and it is woeful. VW do much better active cruise control (our other car is vw), it's super precise and a joy on crappy journeys. We couldn't go back to standard cruise control.
We have active cruise in ours and it is woeful. VW do much better active cruise control (our other car is vw), it's super precise and a joy on crappy journeys. We couldn't go back to standard cruise control.
Interesting. By fragile do you mean lacking presence, or a bit jittery/shaky etc.? It needs to be a fun commute, but at the same time not a tiring one.
Unfortunately newer is a long way out of budget, so would be sticking to regular cruise control, although the one I’m looking at has got nav installed so dash looks tidy.
I figured windscreens could get a bit battered being so upright, so will keep an eye out for any damage.
Unfortunately newer is a long way out of budget, so would be sticking to regular cruise control, although the one I’m looking at has got nav installed so dash looks tidy.
I figured windscreens could get a bit battered being so upright, so will keep an eye out for any damage.
I have 56k on a 2010 N18 clubman S. I've just reduced my commute but it used to be 50 miles into London. I swapped the wheels for some speedline turinis, ditched the run flats and refreshed the suspension with lowering springs.
For longer commutes it might be worth looking at the clubman as they ride a little better due to the longer wheelbase.
No issues with mine other than the HPFP which died a few weeks back which was easy to change.
Cant think of anything else I'd swap it for. Cruise and visual boost would be worth getting to make the commute more bearable.
For longer commutes it might be worth looking at the clubman as they ride a little better due to the longer wheelbase.
No issues with mine other than the HPFP which died a few weeks back which was easy to change.
Cant think of anything else I'd swap it for. Cruise and visual boost would be worth getting to make the commute more bearable.
Draculaw said:
What do I need to worry about?
I’ve got a 30 mile commute each way, main roads mostly, but lots of short stretches on them. I’m looking at a 2010 Cooper S (N18 engine) with 62k and a full service history. Historical MOTs look to be pretty reasonable, predominantly consumable items which should’ve been changed.
Are there big ticket service items/failures likely in the next 12 months or so (bearing in mind around 15k miles per year)?
One other thing I’m interested in is cruise control. My current GTC has both speed limiter and the usual cruise control. Given the type of commute, it’s very rare that I can set the cruise to speed and stay at it without needing to ease off a little, so I like the peace of mind that I can put my foot down and not get a ticket but can still just ease back to slow.
Lol so you are wanting to use a normal mass market car for its exact intended purpose, being used daily on a normal commute. I’ve got a 30 mile commute each way, main roads mostly, but lots of short stretches on them. I’m looking at a 2010 Cooper S (N18 engine) with 62k and a full service history. Historical MOTs look to be pretty reasonable, predominantly consumable items which should’ve been changed.
Are there big ticket service items/failures likely in the next 12 months or so (bearing in mind around 15k miles per year)?
One other thing I’m interested in is cruise control. My current GTC has both speed limiter and the usual cruise control. Given the type of commute, it’s very rare that I can set the cruise to speed and stay at it without needing to ease off a little, so I like the peace of mind that I can put my foot down and not get a ticket but can still just ease back to slow.
Things you should be worried about? Paranoia maybe
Draculaw said:
Interesting. By fragile do you mean lacking presence, or a bit jittery/shaky etc.? It needs to be a fun commute, but at the same time not a tiring one.
Unfortunately newer is a long way out of budget, so would be sticking to regular cruise control, although the one I’m looking at has got nav installed so dash looks tidy.
I figured windscreens could get a bit battered being so upright, so will keep an eye out for any damage.
By fragile I mean as solid as it feels it doesn't feel like it would last as long as say, a Japanese or Korean car. I did 40 miles a day in an accord type r for 5 years straight on windy bumpy b roads and only had to change tyres.Unfortunately newer is a long way out of budget, so would be sticking to regular cruise control, although the one I’m looking at has got nav installed so dash looks tidy.
I figured windscreens could get a bit battered being so upright, so will keep an eye out for any damage.
I don't think the mini could take that sort of beating. My current commute is 2 miles a day so I'm not too worried.
300bhp/ton said:
Lol so you are wanting to use a normal mass market car for its exact intended purpose, being used daily on a normal commute.
Things you should be worried about? Paranoia maybe
Seems pretty reasonable to ask the car buying section of a motoring forum for input on likely big ticket items when purchasing a car of higher mileage. If a cam belt needed changing in 8 months, for instance, that would seriously decrease the value proposition. Similarly needing input from owners about a specific feature of the vehicle in question doesn’t seem especially paranoid, more like a buyer using resources to do some research and make an informed decision.Things you should be worried about? Paranoia maybe
I’ll take a look through the service history and see whether there’s been anything on the fuel pump and water pump since those seem to be reported failures here and elsewhere. Did notice some brake corrosion on an old MOT but gone on newer so assume must have fixed.
I have a 2016 JCW - i do 40 miles each way every day about 15 miles of rural roads and the rest on the motoway, 400 or so miles a week.
I’ve done 30k in the last 18 months - it’s been serviced, and had new pads all around - oh and new front tyres - that’s it.
Comfy enough - does very nearly 40mpg, and you can be a hooligan when the mood takes you.
Hasn’t fallen apart and doesn’t rattle
I’ve done 30k in the last 18 months - it’s been serviced, and had new pads all around - oh and new front tyres - that’s it.
Comfy enough - does very nearly 40mpg, and you can be a hooligan when the mood takes you.
Hasn’t fallen apart and doesn’t rattle
Draculaw said:
Seems pretty reasonable to ask the car buying section of a motoring forum for input on likely big ticket items when purchasing a car of higher mileage. If a cam belt needed changing in 8 months, for instance, that would seriously decrease the value proposition. Similarly needing input from owners about a specific feature of the vehicle in question doesn’t seem especially paranoid, more like a buyer using resources to do some research and make an informed decision.
I’ll take a look through the service history and see whether there’s been anything on the fuel pump and water pump since those seem to be reported failures here and elsewhere. Did notice some brake corrosion on an old MOT but gone on newer so assume must have fixed.
Is 62,000 miles a lot then for a 9 year old vehicle? I’d have thought it was quite average or below average. I’ll take a look through the service history and see whether there’s been anything on the fuel pump and water pump since those seem to be reported failures here and elsewhere. Did notice some brake corrosion on an old MOT but gone on newer so assume must have fixed.
Draculaw said:
What do I need to worry about?
I’ve got a 30 mile commute each way, main roads mostly, but lots of short stretches on them. I’m looking at a 2010 Cooper S (N18 engine) with 62k and a full service history. .
Are there big ticket service items/failures likely in the next 12 months or so (bearing in mind around 15k miles per year)?
, so I like the peace of mind that I can put my foot down and not get a ticket but can still just ease back to slow.
Perhaps you should worry about why you can't control your speed without cruise and a limiter rather than worry if a 9 year old car can survive 30miles a day.I’ve got a 30 mile commute each way, main roads mostly, but lots of short stretches on them. I’m looking at a 2010 Cooper S (N18 engine) with 62k and a full service history. .
Are there big ticket service items/failures likely in the next 12 months or so (bearing in mind around 15k miles per year)?
, so I like the peace of mind that I can put my foot down and not get a ticket but can still just ease back to slow.
Also, no one has a crystal ball so no we can't give you a list of things guaranteed to fail on a car. This goes for others an not just the OP but people really need to accept that a modern car is complicated, has tens of thousands of parts and sometimes bits just break. If you are scared of a hundred quid bill an maybe a day without a car, invest in a bus pass.
aka_kerrly said:
Perhaps you should worry about why you can't control your speed without cruise and a limiter rather than worry if a 9 year old car can survive 30miles a day.
Also, no one has a crystal ball so no we can't give you a list of things guaranteed to fail on a car. This goes for others an not just the OP but people really need to accept that a modern car is complicated, has tens of thousands of parts and sometimes bits just break. If you are scared of a hundred quid bill an maybe a day without a car, invest in a bus pass.
All the guy wants is some advice man. If you don't like the question or the way it was phrased or want he wants then fair enough but don't have a go. Not everyone is as prefrct as ewe.Also, no one has a crystal ball so no we can't give you a list of things guaranteed to fail on a car. This goes for others an not just the OP but people really need to accept that a modern car is complicated, has tens of thousands of parts and sometimes bits just break. If you are scared of a hundred quid bill an maybe a day without a car, invest in a bus pass.
aka_kerrly said:
Perhaps you should worry about why you can't control your speed without cruise and a limiter rather than worry if a 9 year old car can survive 30miles a day.
Also, no one has a crystal ball so no we can't give you a list of things guaranteed to fail on a car. This goes for others an not just the OP but people really need to accept that a modern car is complicated, has tens of thousands of parts and sometimes bits just break. If you are scared of a hundred quid bill an maybe a day without a car, invest in a bus pass.
60 miles a dayAlso, no one has a crystal ball so no we can't give you a list of things guaranteed to fail on a car. This goes for others an not just the OP but people really need to accept that a modern car is complicated, has tens of thousands of parts and sometimes bits just break. If you are scared of a hundred quid bill an maybe a day without a car, invest in a bus pass.
Likely =/= guaranteed to fail. Seems like there are a few common items to fail and it’s prudent to assess whether you’re looking at a possible substantial bill in the near future.
Who said anything about being unable to control without cruise/limiter? You could drive without a synchromesh and still change gears, but you don’t. You could rely on rolling resistance and engine braking to stop, but you don’t. Little things make the drive more relaxing and more comfortable without meaning a person can’t drive. See, I can make ad absurdum arguments too
Christ what a bunch of people on here sometimes.
The 2014+ F series MINI's are completely different chassis, electrics etc.
2008-2014 R56 Series cars can suffer from High Pressure Fuel pump failure. Fairly common and is roughly a £450 part. But easy enough for any garage to swap out. Timing is via chain, but the tensioner and have been known to fail. Oil usage can be quite high but it's a slim possibility.
I have an R56 JCW and currently does 80 miles a day A and B roads, perfectly fine and does 36mpg+. The S should be a bit better depending on commuting type.
Handling is great, although with runflats a bit crashy, Seats are good, infotainment is good, especially with a Harmonn Kardon system in. Brakes are good but can be pricey if you go for the Brembo options.
Most of the service items are easy to get to and don't require specialist tools, although the battery does need coding to the car when it's due a replacement.
Where are you based? There's a lot of good specialists for MINI's in the UK. I live on the coast so use Sussex Road and Race, who know their vehicles inside out.
The 2014+ F series MINI's are completely different chassis, electrics etc.
2008-2014 R56 Series cars can suffer from High Pressure Fuel pump failure. Fairly common and is roughly a £450 part. But easy enough for any garage to swap out. Timing is via chain, but the tensioner and have been known to fail. Oil usage can be quite high but it's a slim possibility.
I have an R56 JCW and currently does 80 miles a day A and B roads, perfectly fine and does 36mpg+. The S should be a bit better depending on commuting type.
Handling is great, although with runflats a bit crashy, Seats are good, infotainment is good, especially with a Harmonn Kardon system in. Brakes are good but can be pricey if you go for the Brembo options.
Most of the service items are easy to get to and don't require specialist tools, although the battery does need coding to the car when it's due a replacement.
Where are you based? There's a lot of good specialists for MINI's in the UK. I live on the coast so use Sussex Road and Race, who know their vehicles inside out.
Great cars, we have one.
As already mentioned, they can use a bit of oil, so keep an eye on levels.
Ours has had its timing chain replaced. It began to not want to rev, which was the timing sensors telling the ecu there was too much variation.
They are direct injection engines, so are prone to getting messy in the intake side due to the crankcase breather system. Ours had a walnut blasting at the same time as the new timing chain. Ran much better after. Cost was about £750 for service, timing chain and walnut blasting.
We have also had the thermostat housing fail, and be replaced.
Beyond that, its just consumables. It does late 30’s to the gallon when you’re good, and feels well screwed together.
We’ve had ours for nearly 5 years, and not looking to change it.
They are a PSA family engine, so also found in Citroen ds3 and Peugeot gti.
Tuners like Lohen can be a good place go look if the bug bites.
As already mentioned, they can use a bit of oil, so keep an eye on levels.
Ours has had its timing chain replaced. It began to not want to rev, which was the timing sensors telling the ecu there was too much variation.
They are direct injection engines, so are prone to getting messy in the intake side due to the crankcase breather system. Ours had a walnut blasting at the same time as the new timing chain. Ran much better after. Cost was about £750 for service, timing chain and walnut blasting.
We have also had the thermostat housing fail, and be replaced.
Beyond that, its just consumables. It does late 30’s to the gallon when you’re good, and feels well screwed together.
We’ve had ours for nearly 5 years, and not looking to change it.
They are a PSA family engine, so also found in Citroen ds3 and Peugeot gti.
Tuners like Lohen can be a good place go look if the bug bites.
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