dry sump
Author
Discussion

escat

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Monday 4th March 2019
quotequote all
Hi
New to the forum. I am lucky enough to own an Escort Cossie.
The engine is dry sumped and that's when the problem begins.
When the engine isn't running there is a leak from the crankshaft seal. Call me old fashioned
but oil is too expensive to paint the garage floor with.
With the engine running the leak goes.
Any help advice greatly appreciated
Many thanks
Terry

stevieturbo

17,968 posts

271 months

Monday 4th March 2019
quotequote all
Inspect and replace the seal ?

Whether it's dry sump or not is irrelevant.

PositronicRay

28,630 posts

207 months

Monday 4th March 2019
quotequote all
Presumably oils drawing back into the sump, guessing it shouldn't. Non return valve?

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

284 months

Monday 4th March 2019
quotequote all
The crankcase is in vacuum with the engine running but isn't when switched off. You need a new seal.

escat

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Tuesday 5th March 2019
quotequote all
Gentlemen thank you for your replies. I have asked around and this seems to be a common problem when using a dry sump
I really don't want to take the engine out. The engine has only run for 40 minutes since the seal was replaced.
I have considered a non return valve but would be worried that it would fail under competition conditions.
Thanks again everyone
Terry


spikeyhead

19,748 posts

221 months

Saturday 9th March 2019
quotequote all
place metal bowl under engine

Pour contents into engine before heading out to play

alternatively, slap whoever changed the last seal and didn't put the new one in right, and get them to fit it properly.

stevieturbo

17,968 posts

271 months

Saturday 9th March 2019
quotequote all
escat said:
Gentlemen thank you for your replies. I have asked around and this seems to be a common problem when using a dry sump
No it isnt, and there is no reason it should leak.

Mignon

1,018 posts

113 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
quotequote all
A common reason for crank oil seals to not seal is the incorrect surface finish on the crank journal the seals rubs on. This should have a light cross-hatch scored finish like the cross-hatch in a cylinder after boring and honing. This allows the new seal to bed in. If a shiny groove has worn into the journal then it needs going over with 120 grit wet and dry to rough it up a bit.

tapkaJohnD

2,000 posts

228 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
quotequote all
SpeediSleeve?
John

escat

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
quotequote all
Eh up lads (that's a traditional Stoke greeting)
Thank you for all your advice.
I guess I know what needs to be done just don't want to do it.
Is there an easy way?
Thanks
Terry

escat

Original Poster:

5 posts

85 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
quotequote all
Hi Jon
What's a SpeediSleeve
Thanks
Terry

tapkaJohnD

2,000 posts

228 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
quotequote all
Speedi-Sleeve, by SKF
A well known device, in industry and automotive work, from an industrial leader. It's not a gimmick, but a very thin tube that is a tight fit over the shaft that is leaking, It comes with a flange and a tool to insert it with, you then tear off the flange and refit the part with the shaft. See: https://www.skf.com/uk/products/seals/industrial-s...
Follow the link on that page, bottom right, to "Related Documents - SKF Speedi-Sleeve" for a detailed installation guide.

They are very good when, for whatever reason, a groove has been worn in the shaft. No amount of polishing will deal with that.
They come in an enormous range of sizes - there will almost certainly be one to fit your shaft.
And, depending on the situation, it may be possible to fit it without removing the shaft. If the oil seal is held in a removeable housing, then just do that, fit the sleeve and refit the housing. A new seal is advisable.

JOhn