Discussion
Beware of changing away from the standard air box unless you are prepared to change to a manual choke as the air box controls the hot and cold air intake to stop the carb from icing, which then brings the auto choke back working, and then this 'chokes' the engine and it shuts down.(we fit K&N units inside standard air boxes).
Adrian
>> Edited by adrian@ on Thursday 19th May 08:26
Adrian
>> Edited by adrian@ on Thursday 19th May 08:26
adrian@ said:
Beware of changing away from the standard air box unless you are prepared to change to a manual choke as the air box controls the hot and cold air intake to stop the carb from icing, which then brings the auto choke back working, and then this 'chokes' the engine and it shuts down.(we fit K&N units inside standard air boxes).
Adrian
>> Edited by adrian@ on Thursday 19th May 08:26
IIRC, the choke is controlled by the temperature of the water passing through the water jacket. Would the icing be severe enough to overcome this?
Also, carb icing will only occur when the humidity is high and the ambient temperature is slightly above freezing, so hardly a great risk if the car is used in the summer only.
My M, built November '75 had a manual control on the air intake for summer and winter settings. It was quite a while before I realised it's significance, but IIRC, I never experienced carb icing problems.
Only the later M series cars had the automatic intake, I guess TVR started to fit it as that's how the engines started to arrive from Ford.
Paul.
If you are going to fit a K&N take Adrians advice and get one to fit inside the standard air box.
My 3000S has an ordinary K&N and a manual choke and it was still icing up on a few days last week in the morning but has been OK this week. This manifests itself by the throttle sticking open and when you lift the bonnet you can see the ice around the butterfly spindle area. I have to stop and wait a minute for the revs to drop and then it clears itself.
I have a K&N inside the standard air box on my Scimitar GTE and as an experiment I swapped them round and the Scimitar then had the icing problems and they disappeared from the 3000S.
Nige
My 3000S has an ordinary K&N and a manual choke and it was still icing up on a few days last week in the morning but has been OK this week. This manifests itself by the throttle sticking open and when you lift the bonnet you can see the ice around the butterfly spindle area. I have to stop and wait a minute for the revs to drop and then it clears itself.
I have a K&N inside the standard air box on my Scimitar GTE and as an experiment I swapped them round and the Scimitar then had the icing problems and they disappeared from the 3000S.
Nige
nwarner said:
If you are going to fit a K&N take Adrians advice and get one to fit inside the standard air box.
My 3000S has an ordinary K&N and a manual choke and it was still icing up on a few days last week in the morning but has been OK this week. This manifests itself by the throttle sticking open and when you lift the bonnet you can see the ice around the butterfly spindle area. I have to stop and wait a minute for the revs to drop and then it clears itself.
I have a K&N inside the standard air box on my Scimitar GTE and as an experiment I swapped them round and the Scimitar then had the icing problems and they disappeared from the 3000S.
Nige
And the corollary of keeping the air box is to make sure the temperature-controlled vacuum switch in the airbox is still working, and the flap it controls also still works. I wouldn't mind betting that a lot of them ceased to function years ago.
Paul.
Thanks for all the advice fellas, but despite being a 78 car this is running a manual choke already, so I dont have that worry. (Should I be worried that it isnt an auto for that year????)
Chances of it actually going out on a freezin cold day are pretty slim, would use the everyday car if its that cold, but I suppose you must never rule out that possibility.
And final nail in the coffin is that the hot/cold mechanism on the filter box isnt there, nor is it in any of the box of bits. Hence my intention to get some sort of aftermarket filter and housing to replace Mr Fords metal monstrosity!!!
Nick
Chances of it actually going out on a freezin cold day are pretty slim, would use the everyday car if its that cold, but I suppose you must never rule out that possibility.
And final nail in the coffin is that the hot/cold mechanism on the filter box isnt there, nor is it in any of the box of bits. Hence my intention to get some sort of aftermarket filter and housing to replace Mr Fords metal monstrosity!!!
Nick
zcar said:
Thanks for all the advice fellas, but despite being a 78 car this is running a manual choke already, so I dont have that worry. (Should I be worried that it isnt an auto for that year????)
Chances of it actually going out on a freezin cold day are pretty slim, would use the everyday car if its that cold, but I suppose you must never rule out that possibility.
And final nail in the coffin is that the hot/cold mechanism on the filter box isnt there, nor is it in any of the box of bits. Hence my intention to get some sort of aftermarket filter and housing to replace Mr Fords metal monstrosity!!!
Nick
No, it just means someone has converted it to manual choke. They all had auto choke when manufactured, it's just the hot/cold air flap that went from manual to auto operation.
>> Edited by B16 RFF on Friday 20th May 15:19
Step 1: Remove Ford air cleaner box from car.
Step 2: Throw away standard filter.
Step 3: Drill out spot welds securing base of air cleaner box.
Step 4: Re-fit base of air cleaner box to car.
Step 5: Remove air inlet duct from air cleaner box: replace with short stub of suitable tubing.
Step 6: Attach appropriate length of ducting to deliver cold air to tube fitted at Step 5.
Step 7: Replace air cleaner box on car: it now rotates freely on its base and can be positioned so that the new air inlet fits between the distributor and the oil filler cap, pointing towards the front of the car.
Step 8: drop K&N element into air cleaner and replace lid.
I also had to make a 1/2" spacer to go between the carb flange and the base of the air cleaner to get a bit more clearance between the inlet and the distributor, but that was because it suited me to run the duct directly over the dizzy.
Seems to give a reasonable balance between lowered intake temperatures and carb icing - and if the latter is a problem you can always take off the ducting for cold autumn mornings.
Step 2: Throw away standard filter.
Step 3: Drill out spot welds securing base of air cleaner box.
Step 4: Re-fit base of air cleaner box to car.
Step 5: Remove air inlet duct from air cleaner box: replace with short stub of suitable tubing.
Step 6: Attach appropriate length of ducting to deliver cold air to tube fitted at Step 5.
Step 7: Replace air cleaner box on car: it now rotates freely on its base and can be positioned so that the new air inlet fits between the distributor and the oil filler cap, pointing towards the front of the car.
Step 8: drop K&N element into air cleaner and replace lid.
I also had to make a 1/2" spacer to go between the carb flange and the base of the air cleaner to get a bit more clearance between the inlet and the distributor, but that was because it suited me to run the duct directly over the dizzy.
Seems to give a reasonable balance between lowered intake temperatures and carb icing - and if the latter is a problem you can always take off the ducting for cold autumn mornings.
I used to use a complete K&N filter assembly. However, because of the low overall height of the filter, the engine had trouble breathing. I have now returned to the original Ford housing with a K&N filter inside. The car sounds and runs much sweeter.
Mine was supplied by John Wade (JW Developments), but other can also supply.
Pietro
Mine was supplied by John Wade (JW Developments), but other can also supply.
Pietro
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