Discussion
Phazed described a good way to do it with silicone.
Firstly its a good idea to add two studs either side in the middle of the block to easily fit and centre sump, add a bead of good silicone, offer up sump and do all bolts up just enough to get a good contact on both block and sump surfaces but leave loose, let it tack off a bit then tighten up. This is the best way to use any kind of sealant really as letting it go off a bit reduces it being squeezed out when you nip the bolts up so creating a gasket with good thickness.
Top tip if you ask me
Check your cruciforms haven’t shrunk while your at it,,, again not a bad idea to squeeze a bit of mastic up there if they are showing gaps before you fit sump.
Firstly its a good idea to add two studs either side in the middle of the block to easily fit and centre sump, add a bead of good silicone, offer up sump and do all bolts up just enough to get a good contact on both block and sump surfaces but leave loose, let it tack off a bit then tighten up. This is the best way to use any kind of sealant really as letting it go off a bit reduces it being squeezed out when you nip the bolts up so creating a gasket with good thickness.
Top tip if you ask me
Check your cruciforms haven’t shrunk while your at it,,, again not a bad idea to squeeze a bit of mastic up there if they are showing gaps before you fit sump.
Get a flat strip of steel (a steel ruler will do nicely) and place it along the top of the sump one side at a time, while carefully inspecting by holding it up at eye level.
Even the slightest proud hole surround in the sump can give you problems, and tightening bolts onto a thick line of sealant can just make the bolt hole surrounds bulge towards the engine base. The oil will escape through the gap near the holes when under 40 psi oil pressure.
Grind the hole surrounds completely flat before re-fitting.
It’s how I found my leaks.......engine running, car up on the ramp and look for the leaks.
Even the slightest proud hole surround in the sump can give you problems, and tightening bolts onto a thick line of sealant can just make the bolt hole surrounds bulge towards the engine base. The oil will escape through the gap near the holes when under 40 psi oil pressure.
Grind the hole surrounds completely flat before re-fitting.
It’s how I found my leaks.......engine running, car up on the ramp and look for the leaks.
I just used sealant on mine, and replaced 4 of the bolts with 4 x 5/16 UNC studs and nyloc nuts to help with fitting. No leaks... yet.
I bought a set with an un-threaded waist (designed for exhaust manifolds I later realised
) so they were too long and had to cut down a bit. If I did it again, I'd just buy a length of threaded bar and cut sections off to length to suit.
I bought a set with an un-threaded waist (designed for exhaust manifolds I later realised
) so they were too long and had to cut down a bit. If I did it again, I'd just buy a length of threaded bar and cut sections off to length to suit.Belle427 said:
Ive not read too many good reports on the rubber gaskets, most suggest the use of a good quality sealant only is best as described above.
Personally I've not read anything negative about rubber gaskets and can only speak from my experience over a number of cars/years. Neil Garner's fit them as a matter of course these days without any silicon in sight I believe and I'm sure they would be happy to advise with a call.Edited by Englishman on Wednesday 20th March 08:29
Englishman said:
Belle427 said:
Ive not read too many good reports on the rubber gaskets, most suggest the use of a good quality sealant only is best as described above.
Personally I've not read anything negative about rubber gaskets and can only speak from my experience over a number of cars/years. Neil Garner's fit them as a matter of course these days without any silicon in sight I believe and I'm sure they would be happy to advise with a call.Edited by Englishman on Wednesday 20th March 08:29
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
This was my thread from a week or so ago.
It describes phazed's method of sump sealing which I followed to the letter and results looking good.
It also shows how my cruciform appears to have shrunk back so filled the little holes and let the sealant go off a bit.
This was my thread from a week or so ago.
It describes phazed's method of sump sealing which I followed to the letter and results looking good.
It also shows how my cruciform appears to have shrunk back so filled the little holes and let the sealant go off a bit.
Can vouch for Phazed method 
I purchased a job lot of branded gaskets ages ago its all I have ever used cork and a smear of Hylomar to hold in place simply because clean up is faster is all 
no leaks , if you use RTV only use specific types Reinzosil ,Elring , Wurth, Wynns, GM, Ford,Honda, etc etc etc these have more body than good old plumbing/domestic RTV's and better suited to the job 
..... 
I purchased a job lot of branded gaskets ages ago its all I have ever used cork and a smear of Hylomar to hold in place simply because clean up is faster is all no leaks , if you use RTV only use specific types Reinzosil ,Elring , Wurth, Wynns, GM, Ford,Honda, etc etc etc these have more body than good old plumbing/domestic RTV's and better suited to the job ..... Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff