clutch removal
Discussion
The clutch on a 944 is a nightmare:
Because of the transaxle, the whole rear track has to be removed in order to get the tube backwards to free the access.
So my question is: would you rather remove the engine instead of the gearbox?
A friend of mine who did his said that if he had to do it again he would remove the engine instead...
Thanks for your advices
Because of the transaxle, the whole rear track has to be removed in order to get the tube backwards to free the access.
So my question is: would you rather remove the engine instead of the gearbox?
A friend of mine who did his said that if he had to do it again he would remove the engine instead...
Thanks for your advices
As the engine needs to be dropped down, along with the cross member and all the front suspension, I think from what I have heard it is no easier. I'm sure if it was, the specialists would use this method rather than dropping the gearbox.
I have been looking into this as I am thinking about doing my own soon.
Be thankful you haven't got an early 951 with the one piece crossover pipe. I think this adds about 6 hours to the job.
>> Edited by Basil Brush on Tuesday 24th September 10:53
I have been looking into this as I am thinking about doing my own soon.
Be thankful you haven't got an early 951 with the one piece crossover pipe. I think this adds about 6 hours to the job.
>> Edited by Basil Brush on Tuesday 24th September 10:53
quote:
How do you know if the clutch is going? My recently bought S2 has done 87500 miles and as far as I know has still got the original clutch. Seems to feel alright at the moment - but how much does it generally cost to have a new one fitted?
When the rubber centre goes on an S2 the clutch disc relies on small metal tabs as a get-you-home backup. You will feel a lot of driveline lash and probably a banging noise when setting off and changing gear, along with difficulty in changing gear. If the clutch hasn't been abused you can get anywhere up to about 130k miles out of the disc, but it seems to be the centre that fails rather than the friction material wearing out.
Replacement is about 7-800 quid at a specialist as it is such a long job. You should probably do additional things like the rear main seal and pilot bearing whilst in there though.
I had the clutch on my 993 turbo replaced. They have to drop the engine atc, it came to about 1400 all said and done at a specialist. In fact it would have been a 200-300 of hundred quid more at the dealership.
I could tell mine was on the way out when I accelerated hard in third gear at about 80-90 mph the revs where too high for the speed, and then you would feel the car 'catch up' with the correct revs. You'll know as soon as it starts happening. Its not a major sudden lose of usage rather more of a degradation in the clutch.
I could tell mine was on the way out when I accelerated hard in third gear at about 80-90 mph the revs where too high for the speed, and then you would feel the car 'catch up' with the correct revs. You'll know as soon as it starts happening. Its not a major sudden lose of usage rather more of a degradation in the clutch.
quote:
I could tell mine was on the way out when I accelerated hard in third gear at about 80-90 mph the revs where too high for the speed, and then you would feel the car 'catch up' with the correct revs. You'll know as soon as it starts happening. Its not a major sudden lose of usage rather more of a degradation in the clutch.
When the rubber center goes completely on a 944 you will lose all drive, as the center of the disc breaks from the outer and can spin freely. The metal tabs give you enough time to get home but don't last very long.
It's rare for a 944 NA disc to stay together long enough for th friction material to wear to the point of the clutch slipping.
>> Edited by Basil Brush on Tuesday 24th September 15:37
Thanks for your replies.
As far as I'm concerned my clutch actually doesn't need being replaced yet, it just judders a bit when hot and when I drop the gear between third and second. Otherwise it's fine.
A good mate told me it was only worth being replaced when ALL the gears had gone bang (but then he's quite extreme!).
Anyway, do you think any after-market clutches are worth being considered? It seems like many US companies offer quite strong units, apparently stronger than the standard part. What do you reckon?
As far as I'm concerned my clutch actually doesn't need being replaced yet, it just judders a bit when hot and when I drop the gear between third and second. Otherwise it's fine.
A good mate told me it was only worth being replaced when ALL the gears had gone bang (but then he's quite extreme!).
Anyway, do you think any after-market clutches are worth being considered? It seems like many US companies offer quite strong units, apparently stronger than the standard part. What do you reckon?
The hot judder is pretty common I think.
A lot of people recommend changing to the steel sprung disc (like the turbo) rather than the original rubber center as it is less prone to failing, although apparently can generate more driveline noise.
>> Edited by Basil Brush on Tuesday 24th September 18:21
A lot of people recommend changing to the steel sprung disc (like the turbo) rather than the original rubber center as it is less prone to failing, although apparently can generate more driveline noise.
>> Edited by Basil Brush on Tuesday 24th September 18:21
I would not do it that way, way to many things to remove, try this.
Thanks
Lance
www.user.dccnet.com/lmason/951%20Clutch.htm
Thanks
Lance
www.user.dccnet.com/lmason/951%20Clutch.htm
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