Drum skimming in London

[Stuart Fordyce]

I have a 2006 Fiesta with drum brakes on the back. There's a TADTS issue with the drums - when it gets wet they stick onto the shoes with corrosion. Normally a bit of brute force as you pull away sorts it out, however yesterday the left rear wheel refused to turn.

Some extreme violence with a pull away today sorted it with an almighty clang. However, if this is the state it's now in, it's probably worth new shoes and getting the inside of the drum skimmed. Does anyone know any good places in London? I usually do my own servicing but this is beyond me. Plus, the wheel hub torque is 235 Nm and my torque wrench doesn't go that far...

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Stuart Fordyce on Sunday 24th March 19:39

[Chris32345]

Why not just get new drum's they shouldn't be too much money for a focus

[Oscar011]

Stuart Fordyce said:

I have a 2006 Fiesta with drum brakes on the back. There's a TADTS issue with the drums - when it gets wet they stick onto the shoes with corrosion. Normally a bit of brute force as you pull away sorts it out, however yesterday the left rear wheel refused to turn.

Some extreme violence with a pull away today sorted it with an almighty clang. However, if this is the state it's now in, it's probably worth new shoes and getting the inside of the drum skimmed. Does anyone know any good places in London? I usually do my own servicing but this is beyond me. Plus, the wheel hub torque is 235 Nm and my torque wrench doesn't go that far...

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Stuart Fordyce on Sunday 24th March 19:39

Your brake shoes are sticking on the backing plate. Just clean the brakes and put anti seize on the points your brake shoes rest on the backing plate. Usually 3 raised areas behind each shoe. This should solve your problem.

[Stuart Fordyce]

Oscar011 said:

Your brake shoes are sticking on the backing plate. Just clean the brakes and put anti seize on the points your brake shoes rest on the backing plate. Usually 3 raised areas behind each shoe. This should solve your problem.

Cheers! I'll need to get a new nut, the Haynes says it's a one use only one. Do brake shoes still have asbestos in them - if so then I may send this one to a garage!

[Stuart Fordyce]

Chris32345 said:

Why not just get new drum's they shouldn't be too much money for a focus

I'd always rather refurbish and recycle, and fix if I can.

[Oscar011]

Stuart Fordyce said:

Oscar011 said:

Your brake shoes are sticking on the backing plate. Just clean the brakes and put anti seize on the points your brake shoes rest on the backing plate. Usually 3 raised areas behind each shoe. This should solve your problem.

Cheers! I'll need to get a new nut, the Haynes says it's a one use only one. Do brake shoes still have asbestos in them - if so then I may send this one to a garage!

I’m pretty sure asbestos was stopped being used on cars in the late 90’s.

[DuraAce]

Stuart Fordyce said:

Chris32345 said:

Why not just get new drum's they shouldn't be too much money for a focus

I'd always rather refurbish and recycle, and fix if I can.

Even its more hassle and expense?

What's a pair of drums cost? £70? Might even come with new bearings in.

Then you've got the aggro of getting them off, finding another car to take the drums to the garage while you car stays on axle stands.

I couldn't be arsed for £70. Notwithstanding whatever they will charge to skim two drums.

[227bhp]

I was wondering why you were asking on here about re-skinning your drums until I put my glasses on

[E-bmw]

Chris32345 said:

Why not just get new drum's they shouldn't be too much money for a focus

That is as maybe, but if you read the post he has a Fiesta.

[Stuart Fordyce]

I'm in the fortunate position of not needing the car to take me to work - that's what my Yamaha is for. What's more of a pig is that my wrench only goes up to 200 Nm. Plus I like learning how to do things.

[Coilspring]

Are you sure that nut needs to be removed?

Normally undo the bolts behind the backplate to release the drum, avoiding any need to touch the hub nut.

[Penelope Stopit]

Don't worry too much about getting 235 NM on the nut
Use your wrench to get 200NM on it and then use a breaker bar with a long metal pipe over it and give it all you've got, you will have tightened it plenty, once back up and running you can always get a garage to check it's tight enough, my nuts have been tight for 7 months using this method

Please bear in mind I am of slim build but strong, if you are of medium to large build give it a little less than all you've got, if you know what I mean like

[Stuart Fordyce]

Coilspring said:

Are you sure that nut needs to be removed?

Normally undo the bolts behind the backplate to release the drum, avoiding any need to touch the hub nut.

According to the Haynes it does unfortunately.

[Stuart Fordyce]

Penelope Stopit said:

Don't worry too much about getting 235 NM on the nut
Use your wrench to get 200NM on it and then use a breaker bar with a long metal pipe over it and give it all you've got, you will have tightened it plenty, once back up and running you can always get a garage to check it's tight enough, my nuts have been tight for 7 months using this method

Please bear in mind I am of slim build but strong, if you are of medium to large build give it a little less than all you've got, if you know what I mean like

I'm medium, I'd say. Not skinny but not a powerfully built company director either!

[Peanut Gallery]

Err, I found there is an easier way of doing this. May or may not work.

If the brakes are working, and the wheel is turning (aka, brakes are not stuck on) go for a fairly aggressive drive only using your handbrake. (noting who is behind you as you will not have brake lights)

My brakes were sticking on, releasing with clunks, clangs and lots of brute force and ignorance. Drove a hilly road using the handbrake to keep the speed in check / slow / stop, brakes got a "little" warm, but everything dried out thoroughly, carried on with nicely working back brakes, no problems, and plenty of life left in the shoes.

By "little warm" - I mean I could hardly touch the rim, never mind the drum.

[Stuart Fordyce]

Peanut Gallery said:

Err, I found there is an easier way of doing this. May or may not work.

If the brakes are working, and the wheel is turning (aka, brakes are not stuck on) go for a fairly aggressive drive only using your handbrake. (noting who is behind you as you will not have brake lights)

My brakes were sticking on, releasing with clunks, clangs and lots of brute force and ignorance. Drove a hilly road using the handbrake to keep the speed in check / slow / stop, brakes got a "little" warm, but everything dried out thoroughly, carried on with nicely working back brakes, no problems, and plenty of life left in the shoes.

By "little warm" - I mean I could hardly touch the rim, never mind the drum.

I tried this and it seems to have helped!