Need to do some repairs...help!
Discussion
I've got some repairs to do on my '98, 4litre, Chim (see the Running a TVR thread!)
Can anyone help me with Part No's, suppliers and mechanical tips with the following?
1. Replacing the PAS 'U' Bend.
2. Replacing the N/S Headlamp Bowl.
3. Replacing the N/S Rack Gaitor.
4. Replacing the N/S Upper Ball Joint.
Many thanks in advance!
Andy
Can anyone help me with Part No's, suppliers and mechanical tips with the following?
1. Replacing the PAS 'U' Bend.
2. Replacing the N/S Headlamp Bowl.
3. Replacing the N/S Rack Gaitor.
4. Replacing the N/S Upper Ball Joint.
Many thanks in advance!
Andy
chimleic said:
I've got some repairs to do on my '98, 4litre, Chim (see the Running a TVR thread!)
Can anyone help me with Part No's, suppliers and mechanical tips with the following?
2. Replacing the N/S Headlamp Bowl.
Got mine from the TVR Centre, it was £37.31 inc VAT and del, the part number they use is M0435, and thats for the reflector.
To replace it is straight forward. Remove the surround, two wing nuts around the light (behind the front grill) then remove the lens (dont forget to order a new seal and some sealant!) Then there are three adjusters that need removing to be able to take out the reflector, plenty of WD40 needed here! Then refit the new reflector and its a good idea to change the adjuster screws and a smear of copper slip never goes amiss. Replace the lens and seal in place, then refit cover.
chimleic said:
4. Replacing the N/S Upper Ball Joint.
Many thanks in advance!
Andy
Its from a Saab 900, and held in by two bolts, there is also a spacer fitted so dont lose this, and also note which side its fitted.
chimleic said:
4. Replacing the N/S Upper Ball Joint.
Just replaced both sides last night, straight forward job. Although I used a 20mm ball joint splitter which I found a bit tight. Would use a larger one next time i.e. 24mm. Yet another tool to buy
Bought the parts from TVR Car parts, £31.50 each. Came in the post in a matter of days after ordering.
Couldn't find a reference to the torque for the bolt below the joint, so used 35-40 lbft. Anybody know of a good reference place for torque settings?
Remember that the position of the upper ball joint dictates the camber. So mark the position of the bolts before removing, replace in the same position and get your camber checked afterward.
Dave
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