Cleaning satin aluminium parts
Discussion
I bought an original carbon can for my 4XV R1 today. It's in really good shape, no scratches or dents, but it's been sat in the corner of a shop for years. The aluminium end cans are satin-finish aluminium and they have a few marks on them, the sort of thing you get when ali has got wet and the drops left to dry on it. They're like little white marks but they don't just wipe off.
I don't want to use Solvol or similar on it as that will bring it up shiny which it's not meant to be. Any ideas what I can use to can it back to a nice clear satin finish?
I've got some of this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/aluminium-cleaner-... which I believe is basically just some sort of acid, but not sure whether that's any good for something which needs a decent visual finish on it?
Maybe the other alternative is 3M polishing papers, like this, assuming I can get the correct grade: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/DIY-Home-Improvement-To...
???
I don't want to use Solvol or similar on it as that will bring it up shiny which it's not meant to be. Any ideas what I can use to can it back to a nice clear satin finish?
I've got some of this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/aluminium-cleaner-... which I believe is basically just some sort of acid, but not sure whether that's any good for something which needs a decent visual finish on it?
Maybe the other alternative is 3M polishing papers, like this, assuming I can get the correct grade: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/DIY-Home-Improvement-To...
???
Needs to be some special corner of Biker Banter where sad types can go and discuss restoring rubbish old R1’s. 
This is the exhaust on mine. It’s on the to-do list.
Just polish it surely? I’ve seen loads polished up. If you polish it then scotchbrite it to achieve the satin finish the rivets might look odd.
This is the exhaust on mine. It’s on the to-do list.
Just polish it surely? I’ve seen loads polished up. If you polish it then scotchbrite it to achieve the satin finish the rivets might look odd.
Ive got brushed satin silencers and heat shields on one of my bikes and had to sort out some melted stuff on some parts over the years. Ive found you can get a pretty good match just by polishing with autosol then fine scotchbrite pads, try the latter in one direction only first. Start fine and work your way up with more coarse until you get a result you are happy with. You can buy a good selection of pads for a fiver.
You can always machine polish smooth and start again if you are not happy. Depending on shape you can also get a flapper wheel sander that will create a satin finish.
Some good info here https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/polishing-guide...
You can always machine polish smooth and start again if you are not happy. Depending on shape you can also get a flapper wheel sander that will create a satin finish.
Some good info here https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/polishing-guide...
moto_traxport said:
Needs to be some special corner of Biker Banter where sad types can go and discuss restoring rubbish old R1’s.
This is the exhaust on mine. It’s on the to-do list.
Just polish it surely? I’ve seen loads polished up. If you polish it then scotchbrite it to achieve the satin finish the rivets might look odd.
That's exactly what mine looks like.This is the exhaust on mine. It’s on the to-do list.
Just polish it surely? I’ve seen loads polished up. If you polish it then scotchbrite it to achieve the satin finish the rivets might look odd.
I've got some of those 3M papers at home, I'll try a bit at the bottom to see how it comes up.
Weird - our 1999 R1 4XV has shiny polished ends - I must have polished them at some point in the mists of time but I don't remember doing it.
My issue is that I have those marks on the frame - looks like water droplets, but they won't shift with anything. Not autosol or polish. I daren't try anything more aggresive.
I'm trying to get the bike into as good a state and as original as possible, at the moment the wheels are off at the powder coaters.
The original exhaust is in good condition EXCEPT that the carbon fibre "wrap" is looking a bit manky, fortunately underneath and on the wheel facing side. Anyone know if I can replace this - neutral3? - or do I just have to replace the entire exhaust.
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
My issue is that I have those marks on the frame - looks like water droplets, but they won't shift with anything. Not autosol or polish. I daren't try anything more aggresive.
I'm trying to get the bike into as good a state and as original as possible, at the moment the wheels are off at the powder coaters.
The original exhaust is in good condition EXCEPT that the carbon fibre "wrap" is looking a bit manky, fortunately underneath and on the wheel facing side. Anyone know if I can replace this - neutral3? - or do I just have to replace the entire exhaust.
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
Dog Star said:
Weird - our 1999 R1 4XV has shiny polished ends - I must have polished them at some point in the mists of time but I don't remember doing it.
My issue is that I have those marks on the frame - looks like water droplets, but they won't shift with anything. Not autosol or polish. I daren't try anything more aggresive.
I'm trying to get the bike into as good a state and as original as possible, at the moment the wheels are off at the powder coaters.
The original exhaust is in good condition EXCEPT that the carbon fibre "wrap" is looking a bit manky, fortunately underneath and on the wheel facing side. Anyone know if I can replace this - neutral3? - or do I just have to replace the entire exhaust.
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
Re the stained anodising to the frame spars, welcome to the club !My issue is that I have those marks on the frame - looks like water droplets, but they won't shift with anything. Not autosol or polish. I daren't try anything more aggresive.
I'm trying to get the bike into as good a state and as original as possible, at the moment the wheels are off at the powder coaters.
The original exhaust is in good condition EXCEPT that the carbon fibre "wrap" is looking a bit manky, fortunately underneath and on the wheel facing side. Anyone know if I can replace this - neutral3? - or do I just have to replace the entire exhaust.
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
We have what is almost certainly the first UK customer supplied 98 R1 to Britaian and it also has whiteish stains to the side frame spars. When WD 40 is rubbed on them, they fade dramatically, but they always come back!
The bikes previous second long term owner, said that WD 40 caused it, when he laid the bike up for 5 odd years, although it could have been caused by a truck wash type substance, that ran down the frame and dried on. Its stained the anodising.
Solvol wont touch it and neither will anything else that we have “ gently” tried on it.
Because of this bikes historical importance, we are looking into whether it is possible to safely have the frame re anodised, but if not, then we will be fitting some Harris carbon frame protectors ( but not gluing them on ! ) as the frame spars are Very vulnerable to scratches, etc on these.
But i do not like the modern black painted super bike frames at all !
Ref truckwash stains on lacquered frames; someone on here did an awesome wrap to solve it when restoring an OW-01 swing arm when trying to get back to a factory finish rather than mirror polish or powder coat.
There’s a thread somewhere in history - good luck finding it! It was the later chap resto-ing the highly corroded Jap market one rather than the guy who started the thread initially.
Edit - look up ‘OW01 rebuild’ and wrap was from www.hexisgroup.com - not sure what brushed aluminium is in French!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
There’s a thread somewhere in history - good luck finding it! It was the later chap resto-ing the highly corroded Jap market one rather than the guy who started the thread initially.
Edit - look up ‘OW01 rebuild’ and wrap was from www.hexisgroup.com - not sure what brushed aluminium is in French!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by moto_traxport on Tuesday 9th April 11:42
Edited by moto_traxport on Tuesday 9th April 11:45
Dog Star said:
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
Still available new last time I looked. Only mildly horrendous money £100 ish maybe - killer blow was £20 for gasket.Left hand side is the sticky out generator, timing cover is on the other side and hidden when fairing is on.
moto_traxport said:
Still available new last time I looked. Only mildly horrendous money £100 ish maybe - killer blow was £20 for gasket.
Left hand side is the sticky out generator, timing cover is on the other side and hidden when fairing is on.
It's the sticky out bit with YAMAHA on it.Left hand side is the sticky out generator, timing cover is on the other side and hidden when fairing is on.
Other alternative is to have the damage filled (it's scraped, but over the recessed lettering) and powder coated. Not sure how many people would miss the lettering.
Dog Star said:
Weird - our 1999 R1 4XV has shiny polished ends - I must have polished them at some point in the mists of time but I don't remember doing it.
My issue is that I have those marks on the frame - looks like water droplets, but they won't shift with anything. Not autosol or polish. I daren't try anything more aggresive.
I'm trying to get the bike into as good a state and as original as possible, at the moment the wheels are off at the powder coaters.
The original exhaust is in good condition EXCEPT that the carbon fibre "wrap" is looking a bit manky, fortunately underneath and on the wheel facing side. Anyone know if I can replace this - neutral3? - or do I just have to replace the entire exhaust.
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
Re the 98/99 silencer, we had 3 low miles unscuffed cans and all of them had suffered from this. There must be someone out there who can reburb the carbon etc, but its not something we have yet looked into ( mainly because in recent years ive been running an Akra titaneum can, which is a lot lighter ) but to make top money,, a bike with the correct OE can, is desirable. My issue is that I have those marks on the frame - looks like water droplets, but they won't shift with anything. Not autosol or polish. I daren't try anything more aggresive.
I'm trying to get the bike into as good a state and as original as possible, at the moment the wheels are off at the powder coaters.
The original exhaust is in good condition EXCEPT that the carbon fibre "wrap" is looking a bit manky, fortunately underneath and on the wheel facing side. Anyone know if I can replace this - neutral3? - or do I just have to replace the entire exhaust.
Could also do with a left hand engine cover (timing cover).
Clutch covers, we have a couple of used in stock atm, but both are scuffed.
They are £ expensive new, but we fitted a new one to a customers ultra low miles 98 a couple of years ago and he didnt baulk at its cost.
Well I had a little play tonight with a small section next to the wheel, so that if it went horribly wrong it wouldn't be visible!
Have to say I'm quite pleased with the result. This was a very light rub with 1200 wet & dry (I think 1500 or 1800 would be better but I haven't got any handy) with a drop of detailing fluid for lube. Then I used some 3M polishing paper, green grade. Not the easiest thing to photograph well, but this is what happened:
I get that I will need to work around the rivets, and that doing the ends of the end caps will be fiddly so that the polish marks all go I the same direction, but this little bit took less than a minute to do, and could be improved further without too much effort I think. I'd be happy with that finish.
(PS - which one of you is RW??
)
Have to say I'm quite pleased with the result. This was a very light rub with 1200 wet & dry (I think 1500 or 1800 would be better but I haven't got any handy) with a drop of detailing fluid for lube. Then I used some 3M polishing paper, green grade. Not the easiest thing to photograph well, but this is what happened:
I get that I will need to work around the rivets, and that doing the ends of the end caps will be fiddly so that the polish marks all go I the same direction, but this little bit took less than a minute to do, and could be improved further without too much effort I think. I'd be happy with that finish.
(PS - which one of you is RW??
)CAPP0 said:
Well I had a little play tonight with a small section next to the wheel, so that if it went horribly wrong it wouldn't be visible!
Have to say I'm quite pleased with the result. This was a very light rub with 1200 wet & dry (I think 1500 or 1800 would be better but I haven't got any handy) with a drop of detailing fluid for lube. Then I used some 3M polishing paper, green grade. Not the easiest thing to photograph well, but this is what happened:
I get that I will need to work around the rivets, and that doing the ends of the end caps will be fiddly so that the polish marks all go I the same direction, but this little bit took less than a minute to do, and could be improved further without too much effort I think. I'd be happy with that finish.
(PS - which one of you is RW?? )
Il take a look at an OE silencer tomorrow, but i reckon that the end capping must be laquered.Have to say I'm quite pleased with the result. This was a very light rub with 1200 wet & dry (I think 1500 or 1800 would be better but I haven't got any handy) with a drop of detailing fluid for lube. Then I used some 3M polishing paper, green grade. Not the easiest thing to photograph well, but this is what happened:
I get that I will need to work around the rivets, and that doing the ends of the end caps will be fiddly so that the polish marks all go I the same direction, but this little bit took less than a minute to do, and could be improved further without too much effort I think. I'd be happy with that finish.
(PS - which one of you is RW??
)And me......lol.
neutral 3 said:
Il take a look at an OE silencer tomorrow, but i reckon that the end capping must be laquered.
And me......lol.
Any idea if the frame spars are lacquered? I've got all sorts of really fine wet and dry (1200, 2000, 3000) so a very careful go with that might clean it up. I might try an unobtrusive bit.And me......lol.
neutral 3 said:
Il take a look at an OE silencer tomorrow, but i reckon that the end capping must be laquered.
And me......lol.
Had my money on it being you And me......lol.
You could well be right, that messy stuff on there could just be old lacquer. Which means if I clean it all I'll probably have to re-lacquer, but that's not the end of the world.
Dog Star said:
neutral 3 said:
Il take a look at an OE silencer tomorrow, but i reckon that the end capping must be laquered.
And me......lol.
Any idea if the frame spars are lacquered? I've got all sorts of really fine wet and dry (1200, 2000, 3000) so a very careful go with that might clean it up. I might try an unobtrusive bit.And me......lol.
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