330 clubsport
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Discussion

ukbiker32

Original Poster:

19 posts

91 months

Thursday 11th April 2019
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Looked at a 330 clubsport today would 160k miles put you off or are these engines good for much more? going back again on the weekend to drive it is there any known faults i should be looking for? Thanks

Weekendrebuild

1,120 posts

92 months

Thursday 11th April 2019
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Personally to high for me but I’m a numbers guy. Be ok as long As been well serviced ! Can’t hurt to test drive.

Weekendrebuild

1,120 posts

92 months

Thursday 11th April 2019
quotequote all
Weekendrebuild said:
Personally to high for me but I’m a numbers guy. Be ok as long As been well serviced ! Can’t hurt to test drive.
Weekend or daily

Saudade

285 posts

99 months

Thursday 11th April 2019
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I would be more concerned about the rear subframe/floor as it's know to crack.

As well as rust on the rear arches.

Engine will likely be fine.

It's suspension, electrics and bodywork that will be the problem.

No worse than most cars that age though, it depends if you're happy to fix things as/when you need to, and you will need to.


ukbiker32

Original Poster:

19 posts

91 months

Thursday 11th April 2019
quotequote all
Thanks for replies, yes usually too high for me i never usually buy bikes over 20k and cars over 100k but this is really tidy little bit of laquer peel on front bumper thats it. I went with my dad to look at a vr6 vento and this guy had a nice car collection all in good condition so clearly likes and looks after his cars.

Would be a daily driver but not a lot of miles, uncle owns a garage so my cousin does my mechanical work would just cost me parts plus minimal labour how in/expensive are these to run and repair?

aka_kerrly

12,505 posts

239 months

Friday 12th April 2019
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As long as it's structurally fine then the mechanicals aren't overly expensive save a few sensors. the engine is just a 3.0 and there are plenty of them out there so if you have access to mechanics at cheap labour why worry...

More important is not to pay silly money for a ropey Club sport when they are simply not different enough compared with a regular 330sport.

An estoril blue or velvet purple Clubsport with half leather an manual would be ideal... Sod getting a club sport with all the options as it defeats the point of the marginal weight saving if you ask me

ZX10R NIN

30,528 posts

154 months

Friday 12th April 2019
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Just check for rust it sounds like a decent car if you feel it's the right price & you're happy then I say go for it with the view that you may have to have some welding carried out on it further on down the line.

dhutch

17,677 posts

226 months

Friday 12th April 2019
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I have an Imola 330ci sport, basically the same spec as a clubsport, and have even gained the door trim and front splitters under previous ownership, and rolled over onto 160k this year, now around 161.5 or so. X-reg so now 18yo. Clubsports I saw where mad money, and a bit tatty, Estoril and grey mainly, but if you find a nice one and sensible money I would certainly for that. Imola and black is also very nice and likely even more rare.

In the last three years motoring it has been my daily, various commuting miles and motorway use to about 10k a year and it has been very manageable, if obviously a more involved ownership than a newer car, very little to show for the millage. Used to live next to a BMW specialist and breakers which made it very easy to live with.

Rust:
As said, the arches are known to rust, so if its not got rust it has almost certainly been repainted on the sides. I did mine and it doesnt cost as much as you might think, pattern front wings are reasonable and cheap as buttons, Imola is a flat paint and doesnt appear to fade, so easy enough to match in. There is also a spot that often seems to go on the strip between bootlid and rear bumper, slightly off centre, about half the cars I saw had it but mine didnt.

Cooling:
Everyone bangs on about cooling being weak, get it all replaced, etc. I didnt and just used it, and I must say in the three years I have done a new radiator as it was rotten at the bottom, the thermostat and housing (£100ish from bmw) with top hose, then the two bottom hoses when they leaked, and a year later another rad+header as the GSF one was rubbish. Hopefully the Hella one is better, else will try Nissens.

Suspension:
No dramas here tbh. Word on the shopfloor is that for all the internet drama, nobody had ever seen a cracked boot floor other than on an M3 and very early cars. I had to do a arb bush but that happens. Then swapped its ageing Sach dampers for bilstein b4 and eibach's from TDC automotive, Sachs no longer do the dampers for the sport (just the std car) so this appeared the closest option to oem. Seems to sit at a reasonably height and gives suitable compliance.

Wheels and tyres;
They do like to tramline a bit, mine came with staggered mv2 18" which Bridgestons and was nice at that, but hard over pot-holed back lanes which I had a lot of in my daily drive plus the 255 rears cost a eye watering amount compared to the 225 fronts. So I put them in the shed and got a set of second hand 17" style 44 on Mich Pilot Sport 4's which at £350 are a reasonable price for a set and I get just over a year from them.

Engine gearbox:
Mine had a bit of a habit of stalling at low revs, which was made much better but an used cam sensor. Also always used a bit of oil, something like 1l every 1000miles, till it suddenly started loosing (and dropping) a lot which after cam cover gasket (and vanos rebuilt) turned out to be the oil filter housing gasket which is another common one. Its also had one used coil pack. Spark plug change costs 50% more as 6off. Geatbox detent to 1st/2nd is a often a bit sticky, I did a clutch change on mine and while the box was out had this cleaned up and about a thou taken off (emery cloth on a lathe) to make it less likely to pickup. I just fitted a LUK clutch, and did the flywheel for good measure. Clutch delay valve removed later on, which is an improvement with no drawbacks.

Other than that fairly painless. Door handles can get sticky, keep the lubed and adjust if required. Garage I dont usually use managed to break one of mine while in for a 4 wheel alignment, which is a pain because I had to get one painted Fortunately my local still had the paint left over from doing the arches/sides. Sunroof and electric seat sliders both rob headroom, which makes it marginal for me at 6ft2, certainly I would say a helmet would be out of the question but fortunately no plans to track day it anyway. There is a thread somewhere in the BMW section detailing cars with engine and their millage, with a few north of 200k.

So yeah, If you like the car and the older vehicle and have an uncial in the trade, go for it. The e46 doesn't have the raw feel of an E36/E30 but is a very nice place to be either on the motorway, a spirited drive on country lanes, and not even too bad in traffic. Engine is lovely.



Daniel

ukbiker32

Original Poster:

19 posts

91 months

Friday 12th April 2019
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Thanks again for replies did a hpi check on it this morning and everything is fine. After reading replies has my mind at ease going to double check it the weekend and a drive in it see how it goes. Thanks for lengthy reply Daniel he did mention the only thing it needs is a cam cover gasket was that expensive?

dhutch

17,677 posts

226 months

Friday 12th April 2019
quotequote all
ukbiker32 said:
Thanks for lengthy reply Daniel he did mention the only thing it needs is a cam cover gasket was that expensive?
No worries at all. You want a genuine BMW one and there not super cheap with fitting something like £100, which is why I decided to get the vanos at the same time, but at the same time your not talking much in the grand scheme of the cost of a car. I paid £295 for thevanos seals doing Inc fitting and cam cover gasket.
It also might by the oil filter housing gasket (£12 from BMW) as that also top end, and I'm told very occasionally the covers themselves can crack but this is pretty rare.

Daniel