VW MK4 golf won't stop dying
Discussion
I have a 2003 MK4 golf 1.6 petrol 16v and it will not stop dying. When I try to start it, it refuses to turn it just clicks. This has been happening now for about 6 months, it's been to an auto electrician, it's had a new alternator, new battery about 9 months ago and I'm lost with what to try next. I've been charging and swapping batteries constantly for it to work a few weeks and then stop. No mechanic or electrician I have seen can find a fault and it's had alot spent on it so far.
I just wondered if anyone else has had the same problem or whether it's even worth still trying to find out the fault or just get rid.
Thanks
I just wondered if anyone else has had the same problem or whether it's even worth still trying to find out the fault or just get rid.
Thanks
Could be 'anything.' The usual fix is to fire the parts cannon at it, with a new battery, alternator. You've already done that, so the problem is probably elsewhere. (Duh).
Bad/corroded cable earths cause similar symptoms, or loose cables at the starter.
The clicking noise, if it's loud enough, is the starter motor solenoid. Either there's not enough amps in the battery to turn it over, or a bad connection, or the starter motor brushes/commutator have worn, the solenoid contacts are bad, or the pinion that turns the flywheel is worn/jamming/not engaging, or all of these.
Exchange refurb starters are about £80, carbon-brush kits, about £20.
In any case the starter has to come out. Once it's out, it might as well be refurbed or exchanged.
First step is to double check the charging/battery again.
You can check if the alternator is charging with one of the cheap plug-in cigar lighter voltmeters from various sources. With the ignition on, but the engine not running, it should indicate about 12.3 - 12.5 volts, (or better) even with the headlights on briefly. Less is generally a bad battery or contact.
Volts should rise to about 13.9 or so with the engine running faster than tickover. Less than 13 -13.4 volts means insufficient charge.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GOFORJUMP-Portable-Digita...
Bad/corroded cable earths cause similar symptoms, or loose cables at the starter.
The clicking noise, if it's loud enough, is the starter motor solenoid. Either there's not enough amps in the battery to turn it over, or a bad connection, or the starter motor brushes/commutator have worn, the solenoid contacts are bad, or the pinion that turns the flywheel is worn/jamming/not engaging, or all of these.
Exchange refurb starters are about £80, carbon-brush kits, about £20.
In any case the starter has to come out. Once it's out, it might as well be refurbed or exchanged.
First step is to double check the charging/battery again.
You can check if the alternator is charging with one of the cheap plug-in cigar lighter voltmeters from various sources. With the ignition on, but the engine not running, it should indicate about 12.3 - 12.5 volts, (or better) even with the headlights on briefly. Less is generally a bad battery or contact.
Volts should rise to about 13.9 or so with the engine running faster than tickover. Less than 13 -13.4 volts means insufficient charge.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GOFORJUMP-Portable-Digita...
Edited by Slushbox on Tuesday 16th April 10:53
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