Door release cable
Discussion
Any good? ..... Door cable
Cheap option, if it's long enough? .... Cheap cable
Edited by phillpot on Saturday 20th April 09:14
You will need to remove the trim and carpet at the bottom of the B-Post to access the lock.
The attached photos show you what you are dealing with, although these are passenger side so they would only have a single cable and no cables are fitted, The lower photo is what you have (modified Opel Senator non central locking) the assembled one in the bracket is a new replacement (modified Astra 92-98 rear door). The Bowden outer is retained with a couple of length adjuster nuts coming through one of the two holes on the left end (at the bottom when mounted) of the bracket. I assume that on the drivers side there are two cables. The inner cable then passes through a hole in the tacked on piece of angle section (don't you just love TVR) and has a small screw clamp on the cable. If you fully screw back the nuts on the outer where it comes through the bracket then there is just enough slack to pull the cable into a slightly more visible position to do up the clamp on the inner.
Tools you will need - double jointed extra long fingers, spare skin for your knuckles, a swear box.
The attached photos show you what you are dealing with, although these are passenger side so they would only have a single cable and no cables are fitted, The lower photo is what you have (modified Opel Senator non central locking) the assembled one in the bracket is a new replacement (modified Astra 92-98 rear door). The Bowden outer is retained with a couple of length adjuster nuts coming through one of the two holes on the left end (at the bottom when mounted) of the bracket. I assume that on the drivers side there are two cables. The inner cable then passes through a hole in the tacked on piece of angle section (don't you just love TVR) and has a small screw clamp on the cable. If you fully screw back the nuts on the outer where it comes through the bracket then there is just enough slack to pull the cable into a slightly more visible position to do up the clamp on the inner.
Tools you will need - double jointed extra long fingers, spare skin for your knuckles, a swear box.
Wot he said ^ ^ assuming its just the inner then just thread it through. Both times mine has failed the cable has been OK but the clamp has just fallen off the end. If you get yourself a bendy magnet recovery tool you will probably be able to fish the clamp out of the bottom of the sill.
The real solenoid linkage is slightly different from shown in my photo as that was an early version i made up to mate a new and slightly different length solenoid. The linkage needs to be able to push but be free in pull as there is no slack mechanism in the lock so the welded-on bit of angle needs to be able to freely rotate away the solenoid when the door is slammed. The real linkage goes freely through the angle section with a clip or kink on near side to push against.
The real solenoid linkage is slightly different from shown in my photo as that was an early version i made up to mate a new and slightly different length solenoid. The linkage needs to be able to push but be free in pull as there is no slack mechanism in the lock so the welded-on bit of angle needs to be able to freely rotate away the solenoid when the door is slammed. The real linkage goes freely through the angle section with a clip or kink on near side to push against.
Edited by GT6k on Saturday 20th April 14:12
1. Remove drivers side rear seat - undo 3 bolts from inside the wheel arch to remove the lower backrest; remove 4 bolts under the car to remove the seat base
2. Unbolt seatbelt latch
3. Pull trim away from c-pillar - I couldn’t get mine off completely, only enough to squeeze my hands in to replace the solenoid valve
4. The door-latch/lock assembly (shown further up the page) has two cables (bicycle brake cable style) attached to it:
One cable comes from the rear release and one from the release below the door.
I don’t know how the cable is routed from the rear release. But I estimate that it’s not physically far from the latch itself and therefore shouldn’t be too hard.
Best of luck!
2. Unbolt seatbelt latch
3. Pull trim away from c-pillar - I couldn’t get mine off completely, only enough to squeeze my hands in to replace the solenoid valve
4. The door-latch/lock assembly (shown further up the page) has two cables (bicycle brake cable style) attached to it:
One cable comes from the rear release and one from the release below the door.
I don’t know how the cable is routed from the rear release. But I estimate that it’s not physically far from the latch itself and therefore shouldn’t be too hard.
Best of luck!
When working on the door catches, there is an isolator mechanism that could be a child lock on the original vehicle
If you move it the latch will stop opening completely
https://youtu.be/P7PUzLLVZFE
If you move it the latch will stop opening completely
https://youtu.be/P7PUzLLVZFE
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