Tools for removing rusty bolts

[funkyrobot]

I'm going to be tackling some rusty fixtures on my Mk1 Focus soon (beginning with the front strut bolts). What are the best tools to try and avoid snapping the bolt heads?

I was thinking of penetrating oil and heat. Maybe chuck in a good impact wrench too?

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good, not too expensive DIY heat source? Also, any recommendations for a not too expensive impact wrench?

This impact wrench ok? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cew1000-ele...

I'm guessing plusgas is a good penetrant oil. Do the likes of WD40 or any other brands do anything useful?

Thanks all.

[bearman68]

Induction heater is useful. This looks to be a bargain at the money. Often better than a flame, as it's more localised, and you can avoid burning off the rubber componants.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WOYO-HBR-220-Mini-ducto...

6 point sockets are a god send. Sealey, teng etc always OK. I often use aviation spanners as well - very handy.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-7pc-Aviation-Dou...
Impact wrench is useful, but saves time rather than allows you to do things not otherwise possible. Battery ones are infinity preferable to air op ones if you really want one. I have a very good Hitachi, and it's great.

Penetrating fluid - Black magic by Forch is the best I've used to date. - But don't forget to wire brush the threads first.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143202832106?ul_noapp=t...

Finally, you'll almost certainly need a set of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Expert-Mechanics...

[Coilspring]

Good penetrating oil, and time, are the best aids. Allow the oil time to work. Most people spray it on then attack the fastener. What you should do is apply it, then go and have a cuppa.

Impact wenches help in lots of instances, especially tight bolts etc. But they can break bolts/nuts just as easily as a spanner/socket. Gentle bit by bit undoing/fastening/undoing bit by bit is often the way to undo tough stuff.

But generally if a fastener is that corroded that it is tough to undo, it needs replacing, so shearing the end off may help anyway, as long as you have a selection of punches and drifts to remove them.

[funkyrobot]

Thanks. Looks like a good list.

I have some Halfords bits (a socket set), but they don't seem to be 6 point, which is a pain.

[funkyrobot]

Coilspring said:

Good penetrating oil, and time, are the best aids. Allow the oil time to work. Most people spray it on then attack the fastener. What you should do is apply it, then go and have a cuppa.

Impact wenches help in lots of instances, especially tight bolts etc. But they can break bolts/nuts just as easily as a spanner/socket. Gentle bit by bit undoing/fastening/undoing bit by bit is often the way to undo tough stuff.

But generally if a fastener is that corroded that it is tough to undo, it needs replacing, so shearing the end off may help anyway, as long as you have a selection of punches and drifts to remove them.

Thanks.

I'm new to this mechanic game so anything avoiding snapped bolts is useful. Obviously, I need to learn how to handle that issue at some point.

I think I'll start with the penetrant mentioned above and see how it goes. I won't be in a rush.

[anonymous-user]

Any good penetrating oil would be useful. The trick is to apply a few days before trying to undo the bolt, and reapply daily until starting the job. When undoing, try tightening then loosen alternately by hand with a tightly fitting 6 point socket (12 points are more likely to round off the head). Heat is also useful, but depends on the access/ location and surrounding stuff that may be damaged. Keep a fire extinguisher handy; if anyone has used stuff like waxoyl etc in the area, it's very easy to end up with a bonfire! Been there, got the T-shirt.

[Ed.]

Breaker bar if you have access?

[funkyrobot]

Andy-IM said:

Any good penetrating oil would be useful. The trick is to apply a few days before trying to undo the bolt, and reapply daily until starting the job. When undoing, try tightening then loosen alternately by hand with a tightly fitting 6 point socket (12 points are more likely to round off the head). Heat is also useful, but depends on the access/ location and surrounding stuff that may be damaged. Keep a fire extinguisher handy; if anyone has used stuff like waxoyl etc in the area, it's very easy to end up with a bonfire! Been there, got the T-shirt.

Thanks. Will start coating it as soon as I get the stuff in.

[funkyrobot]

Ed. said:

Breaker bar if you have access?

Do have a breaker bar. I guess you just need to be gentle and tighten and untighten before going for it.

[anonymous-user]

Coilspring said:

Good penetrating oil, and time, are the best aids. Allow the oil time to work. Most people spray it on then attack the fastener. What you should do is apply it, then go and have a cuppa.

Impact wenches help in lots of instances, especially tight bolts etc. But they can break bolts/nuts just as easily as a spanner/socket. Gentle bit by bit undoing/fastening/undoing bit by bit is often the way to undo tough stuff.

But generally if a fastener is that corroded that it is tough to undo, it needs replacing, so shearing the end off may help anyway, as long as you have a selection of punches and drifts to remove them.

Good advice there

If the fastener has an exposed thread, clean it up with a wire brush to reduce rust/crud jamming during removal.

Occasionally, a bolt/nut head will be so corroded that hammering on a 'wrong' size socket (e.g. ½" instead of 13mm) will prevent rounding the corners.

ETA: WD40 is rubbish! I've usually used Plus-Gas - though others get good reviews, too...

Edited by anonymous-user on Sunday 21st April 11:27

[funkyrobot]

Plusgas ordered. Will pick up some other bits as I go along.

Will start soaking the joint as soon as it arrives.

[E-bmw]

The best penetrating fluid easily accessible is a 50/50 mix of Acetone & ATF, visit youtube & search for it.

A good method is to part undo/do up until it gets hard & then reverse until it gets hard & reverse & keep doing and keep applying your penetrating oil of choice.

Heat is a real aid to "break" the hold of the rust.

A thread file on exposed threads is MUCH better than a wire brush but not always easy to get in.

[tapkaJohnD]

Metioned above, but worth repeating. TIGHTEN the nut/bolt first, and then use a to-and-fro motion, 'working' the fastener apart, all the way until it comes off. If at any stage it starts to squeal, STOP. Go back to the start, more penetrant, wait etc. The squeal is a seizing sign and can precede breakage.

And of course (please don't be insulted!) those old nuts & bolts go straight in the bin! New, for re-assembly! And grease well where you can.

Good luck!
John

[funkyrobot]

Thanks for the info.

Where would I source new nuts and bolts? Do you just measure them up when they are out and buy them, or can you get them before you start taking things apart?

[gareth_r]

280E said:

...WD40 is rubbish! I've usually used Plus-Gas - though others get good reviews, too...

I've never tried it, but there is a WD40 "rust release penetrant spray".

I find it useful to have an ordinary can of penetrating oil for those occasions when you don't want to spray everything in sight with an aerosol.

[Condi]

bearman68 said:

Induction heater is useful. This looks to be a bargain at the money. Often better than a flame, as it's more localised, and you can avoid burning off the rubber componants.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WOYO-HBR-220-Mini-ducto...

Surely you want to heat the 'nut' end, not the 'bolt' end? For anything captive this would be worse than useless.

[anonymous-user]

nut splitter cheap.

[GliderRider]

Thesprucegoose said:

nut splitter cheap.

A slight tweak with a nut splitter on each face you can reach can help free a nut. Failing that, belt each face of the nut with a blunt cold chisel & club hammer. All the other comments regarding rust release spray, thread cleaning and tightening before loosening still apply.

If the bolt head is accessible, a few good blows with a hammer, via a drift or punch if necessary, on the bolt head, whilst an assistant is attempting to tighten the nut, works well. I was shown this by one of the guys who worked in a scrapyard whilst I was trying to separate an Austin Maestro Macpherson strut from the hub carrier. It worked!

Edited by GliderRider on Sunday 21st April 16:55

[funkyrobot]

GliderRider said:

A slight tweak with a nut splitter on each face you can reach can help free a nut. Failing that, belt each face of the nut with a blunt cold chisel & club hammer. All the other comments regarding rust release spray, thread cleaning and tightening before loosening still apply.

Interesting. Thanks.

How does a nut splitter help though? Won't it weaken the nut?

I guess you need an expose end to grab?

Edited to add - just watched a vid about it. Looks helpful. Not helpful though if you have a bolt with no nut on the end.

Edited by funkyrobot on Sunday 21st April 16:56

[GliderRider]

funkyrobot said:

Interesting. Thanks.

How does a nut splitter help though? Won't it weaken the nut?

I guess you need an expose end to grab?

Edited to add - just watched a vid about it. Looks helpful. Not helpful though if you have a bolt with no nut on the end.

Edited by funkyrobot on Sunday 21st April 16:56

The nut splitter will distort the nut, separating the nut threads from the bolt threads. By doing this on as many faces of the nut as you can, the corrosion bond between the nut and bolt are broken and there is more chance of rust release spray getting in to lubricate the parts.

With regard to bolts, read the edit at the end I add to my first post. Blows from a hammer will jar the thread, and if you are applying torque with a spanner at the same time, you should get it moving. As others have said, lubricate, tighten first, and always use a six point socket or ring spanner. If the socket is a bit loose, try the next-size-down imperial size, e.g. 1/2"AF on a 13mm bolt head. If it will go on, it will be a much tighter fit and less likely to slip and chew the bolt head up.