Bleeding cooling system

[MarkA67]

I had a mechanic come and change the cambelt and water pump the other day and all seemed fine. Was driving it around yesterday just doing short trips, but today when driving on a longer journey I noticed that the temperature gauge was only just sitting above cold. The heater works but the air was luke warm at best. I pulled over and removed the bleed nipple for a few minutes and then the temperature gauge started moving up to between cold and a 1/4 but still nowhere near where it usually is on this car (between a 1/4 and 1/2)

When undoing the nipple, loads of water droplets come flying out, do these stop coming out when the system is fully bled or will they keep coming out regardless? When the engine is fully cold I'll undo both bleed nipples one at a time with the expansion tank cap off but I'm not sure how I know when its bled?

[tapkaJohnD]

We regret that the Department of Precognition is currently undergoing unexpected repairs.
It would help if you said what car this is!
John

[Oldandslow]

My usual technique is to park the car facing up a steep hill. When fairly cold/depressurised undo the rad cap and make sure the rad is full. Start the engine, let it get warm enough to open the thermostat (warm water should circulate to the rad), look for glugs of air and top up as necessary. May need a couple of revs (a mate is good for this as it allows you to observe the rad) to get the last few bits to move round. Look for air getting circulated to the rad and keep topping up. (Safety tip, don't look directly down the rad in case hot water spits out.)

Revisit after a couple of days and then let the expansion tank siphon back take care of any remaining.

Some cars are really hard to bleed and model specific websites will give you any particular tips or tricks.

I don't have one but I see a lot of recommendations for funnel buckets which seem like a good idea but I've not tried them.

[red_slr]

Is it possible he forgot to put the thermostat back in, or perhaps its stuck open?