Stuck valve shim
Discussion
Whilst taking off shims, #4 valve on the odd bank was stuck to the valve and would only release with mole grips pulling on the shim. Shim was wrapped around with cloth and used only a mild grip.
Shim looks ok for bring pulled and it will fit the other valve tips, but #4 valve tip is slightly bigger than the others.
Measured diameter of valve #4 and it is .01-.02 mm larger than the others (7.98 mm). I could tap the shim back in place but thought I'd ask the forum if there was a workaround besides tapping it back in.
I should point out that the valve clearance was relatively normal, just off by 0.05mm (0.20mm cam/lifter clearance)
Shim looks ok for bring pulled and it will fit the other valve tips, but #4 valve tip is slightly bigger than the others.
Measured diameter of valve #4 and it is .01-.02 mm larger than the others (7.98 mm). I could tap the shim back in place but thought I'd ask the forum if there was a workaround besides tapping it back in.
I should point out that the valve clearance was relatively normal, just off by 0.05mm (0.20mm cam/lifter clearance)
Edited by Chimp871 on Friday 3rd May 15:10
When a shim tried to escape and slightly damaged the top of the valve stem, I used some very fine wet&dry to remove the burr so that a new shim would seat easily without tapping it in place
If you have a misfit valve that is somehow different to all the rest that might be more difficult, but that would be what I would try
The damage can be seen on the right of the valve stem
Here's the beaten up shim
If you have a misfit valve that is somehow different to all the rest that might be more difficult, but that would be what I would try
The damage can be seen on the right of the valve stem
Here's the beaten up shim
Edited by ukkid35 on Sunday 5th May 05:44
That's a beaten up shim!
I used some 240 grit and circled the inside of the shim and the outside of the valve. It's better though still an interference fit.
By the way having a chim and a cerb the amount a 'special' Macgyver tools required for these cars should be available as a kit!!!!
Yesterday was spent knocking up a cam sprocket retainer tool, cam turning tool, 2 drilled out spark plugs to find TDC:1 threaded to be a dead stop and one for a plastic tube bubble trick. There's a slight difference between them and I know which I prefer, to avoid a lengthy debate I'll keep it to myself.
Measured cam lobes, as I got bored, and they were between 47.73 to 47.80 mm, useless exercise but may help others, did it because the chim cam was mega-worn when I last changed it out.
Float on cam journal #1 of 4 thou was possible when torqued up but after you turn the crank over a couple of times it reduced to 2 thou, tried again and repeat, so maybe TVR knew it would close up or they didn't.
Who knows what today will bring!!
Rant over. Sort of appropriate that I'm on number 666 posts.
I used some 240 grit and circled the inside of the shim and the outside of the valve. It's better though still an interference fit.
By the way having a chim and a cerb the amount a 'special' Macgyver tools required for these cars should be available as a kit!!!!
Yesterday was spent knocking up a cam sprocket retainer tool, cam turning tool, 2 drilled out spark plugs to find TDC:1 threaded to be a dead stop and one for a plastic tube bubble trick. There's a slight difference between them and I know which I prefer, to avoid a lengthy debate I'll keep it to myself.
Measured cam lobes, as I got bored, and they were between 47.73 to 47.80 mm, useless exercise but may help others, did it because the chim cam was mega-worn when I last changed it out.
Float on cam journal #1 of 4 thou was possible when torqued up but after you turn the crank over a couple of times it reduced to 2 thou, tried again and repeat, so maybe TVR knew it would close up or they didn't.
Who knows what today will bring!!
Rant over. Sort of appropriate that I'm on number 666 posts.
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