Discussion
Most don't use waxoyl as it hardens over existing rust and can allow it to grow even worse underneath.
I personally don't bother as my chassis is fairly good and I prefer to see what's going on.
If you want to pursue it then Dinitrol make some good products and have details of suitable appliers in your area on their website.
This is a product recently brought to my attention as I don't think it hardens and is more oil like in its consistency.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fluid-film-rust-pro...
I personally don't bother as my chassis is fairly good and I prefer to see what's going on.
If you want to pursue it then Dinitrol make some good products and have details of suitable appliers in your area on their website.
This is a product recently brought to my attention as I don't think it hardens and is more oil like in its consistency.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fluid-film-rust-pro...
Tectyl 506 works for me.
I put it over my freshly powder coated outriggers for that extra layer of protection.
Belts and braces to help prevent stone chips and water and salt getting to the steel.
As said above, once the rust has started it is too late, although it may slow down the inevitable.
It may also future buyers suspicious.
I put it over my freshly powder coated outriggers for that extra layer of protection.
Belts and braces to help prevent stone chips and water and salt getting to the steel.
As said above, once the rust has started it is too late, although it may slow down the inevitable.
It may also future buyers suspicious.
Unfortunately it’s often applied long after rot has started which is why it gets such a bad rep.
If and when I get new riggers or chassis I’d want something coating it other than paint or powder coat.
Probably best to take pictures of your clean new painted tubes before applying anything so you can remove doubt if you do come to sell.
Many years ago an old bloke used to spray some sort of grease over fleshly repaired and painted floor areas on normal cars to protect them.
I have no idea if that’s a good idea but he said he’d done it for years and slowly road crap builds up onto the grease and protects the metalwork even more.
It can then be wiped off with some detergent to check later on which is the bit I found quite impressive as a 14 year old.
Any credence in this idea?
If and when I get new riggers or chassis I’d want something coating it other than paint or powder coat.
Probably best to take pictures of your clean new painted tubes before applying anything so you can remove doubt if you do come to sell.
Many years ago an old bloke used to spray some sort of grease over fleshly repaired and painted floor areas on normal cars to protect them.
I have no idea if that’s a good idea but he said he’d done it for years and slowly road crap builds up onto the grease and protects the metalwork even more.
It can then be wiped off with some detergent to check later on which is the bit I found quite impressive as a 14 year old.
Any credence in this idea?
steveo3002 said:
messy but yeah i use marine grease alot on my cars , wipe it on with a brush and it can be wiped off /redone easily
messy to work on though
Get in there. messy to work on though
I always thought this was as good an idea as any. He said it protected against stone chips better than anything else he’d tried but this was 1980.
Messy but better than a rotting chassis.
forget waxoyl or any such oldschool products......fact is: a well cared chassis will not rust.
if you would wash your car underneath after driving the usual UK dirty, wet & muddy roads...this would be the biggest part of the deal....at least once a week...and use some sprayoil afterwrds....
ask yourselves: "how often did i clean my car underneath"?
if you still cannot resist to spray "something" more protective on your chassis use https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fluid-film-rust-pro...
and winter-use is THE overkill par excellance.
if you would wash your car underneath after driving the usual UK dirty, wet & muddy roads...this would be the biggest part of the deal....at least once a week...and use some sprayoil afterwrds....
ask yourselves: "how often did i clean my car underneath"?
if you still cannot resist to spray "something" more protective on your chassis use https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fluid-film-rust-pro...
and winter-use is THE overkill par excellance.
Classic Chim said:
Unfortunately it’s often applied long after rot has started which is why it gets such a bad rep.
If and when I get new riggers or chassis I’d want something coating it other than paint or powder coat.
Probably best to take pictures of your clean new painted tubes before applying anything so you can remove doubt if you do come to sell.
Many years ago an old bloke used to spray some sort of grease over fleshly repaired and painted floor areas on normal cars to protect them.
I have no idea if that’s a good idea but he said he’d done it for years and slowly road crap builds up onto the grease and protects the metalwork even more.
It can then be wiped off with some detergent to check later on which is the bit I found quite impressive as a 14 year old.
Any credence in this idea?
Years ago I rescued a then 40ish year old car which had been the victim of early MoT tests but had quite a low mileage for its age. I got the car from the chap who bought it second hand when the car was just a year old. He had plastered the chassis with old engine oil from the time he bought it. A layer of crud had developed which was probably about 3mm thick by the time I took it over. On scraping some of this off in an area notorious for rust, shiny black paint was revealed. I returned the oily crud to where it had come from and left well alone! A mechanical refurbishment then followed and then some very enjoyable motoring in a very original pre-war car.If and when I get new riggers or chassis I’d want something coating it other than paint or powder coat.
Probably best to take pictures of your clean new painted tubes before applying anything so you can remove doubt if you do come to sell.
Many years ago an old bloke used to spray some sort of grease over fleshly repaired and painted floor areas on normal cars to protect them.
I have no idea if that’s a good idea but he said he’d done it for years and slowly road crap builds up onto the grease and protects the metalwork even more.
It can then be wiped off with some detergent to check later on which is the bit I found quite impressive as a 14 year old.
Any credence in this idea?
LLantrisant said:
forget waxoyl or any such oldschool products......fact is: a well cared chassis will not rust.
if you would wash your car underneath after driving the usual UK dirty, wet & muddy roads...this would be the biggest part of the deal....at least once a week...and use some sprayoil afterwrds....
ask yourselves: "how often did i clean my car underneath"?
if you still cannot resist to spray "something" more protective on your chassis use https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fluid-film-rust-pro...
and winter-use is THE overkill par excellance.
What about stone chips? Who can get under the car to wash it every week! if you would wash your car underneath after driving the usual UK dirty, wet & muddy roads...this would be the biggest part of the deal....at least once a week...and use some sprayoil afterwrds....
ask yourselves: "how often did i clean my car underneath"?
if you still cannot resist to spray "something" more protective on your chassis use https://www.rust.co.uk/product/fluid-film-rust-pro...
and winter-use is THE overkill par excellance.
rolando said:
Years ago I rescued a then 40ish year old car which had been the victim of early MoT tests but had quite a low mileage for its age. I got the car from the chap who bought it second hand when the car was just a year old. He had plastered the chassis with old engine oil from the time he bought it. A layer of crud had developed which was probably about 3mm thick by the time I took it over. On scraping some of this off in an area notorious for rust, shiny black paint was revealed. I returned the oily crud to where it had come from and left well alone! A mechanical refurbishment then followed and then some very enjoyable motoring in a very original pre-war car.
Nice story 
If you ever need proof something works here it is. Thanks for this. I drove a 1929/31 can’t remember BENTLEY BLOWER but without the blower,, can’t remember what model it was but on country lanes I could see over the hedge row? Ace experience with clutch pedal in the middle. Took a bit of muscle but it drove great really. Only had 10 mins in it but I’ll never forget it.
I understand cleaning but as the top of the outriggers are impossible to access ( on a Griff) rust will be there coating from Tvr not that good myself I use waxoyl mixed with a bit of aft fluid a long probe accessed from front inner wheel arch sliding on top of tubing , did the same on my wedge works for me
swisstoni said:
Waxoyl has it’s place if used properly.
If it’s not thinned and just plastered on then I can see where some of the stories come from.
Agree,I warm the Waxoyl first so that it can be sprayed with my weedkiller sprayer. If you don't thin or warm first it goes on like thick sludge.If it’s not thinned and just plastered on then I can see where some of the stories come from.
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