Weird (to me) 2.0 Diesel S-Max Intermittent Fault
Weird (to me) 2.0 Diesel S-Max Intermittent Fault
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NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Wednesday 8th May 2019
quotequote all
Trust me to say it was the most reliable car I'd ever owned...

I've got a 2010 2.0 Diesel S-Max (140) with 100K miles. I've asked on Ford specific forums and there's been some helpful suggestions but no progress so far.

It periodically cuts out (about once a day on average but, really, randomly - no pattern I can work out).
If the car's moving, it restarts immediately - oil pressure light flashes (to be expected I guess) and usually the traction control light comes on and stays on (not always though). If it's stationary, it obviously doesn't restart. Lots of fault codes from ABS module saying they've lost contact with other modules (and most of those modules say the same). The only other maybe-relevant code is from the PCM - power relay de-energized too early.

Today it went into limp mode - turbocharger under-pressure. Ten mins after parking up, it started and ran fine - all I'd done was check the MAF sensor was plugged in properly.

It's off to my usually-reliable independent tomorrow (again - they've seen it a couple of times and fixed an earth and changed the battery, which to be fair did need doing). I trust them, but they are struggling with this and any steer or suggestion I can give them would be helpful to avoid some long-drawn-out replace-bits-til-it's-fixed-fest on a pretty old car (particularly if it ends up at the dealers).

(It started with it periodically refusing to start with an 'immobiliser active' fault - this turns out to be a well-known thing to do with the ABS unit, and clearing the fault codes fixes it, at least temporarily. That seems to have been fixed by cleaning up the corroded earth (not recurred for a couple of weeks) - this together with all the ABS loss-of-contact errors made us think it was something to do with that - but with the limp mode thing I'm not so sure, or even if these things are related or just a coincidence.)

Apologies, got a bit long:-( Thanks in advance for *any* ideas.

GreenV8S

30,999 posts

307 months

Wednesday 8th May 2019
quotequote all
I suspect you're looking for a grounding fault, broken wire, bad contact, that type of thing. But from the sound of it, you're already ahead of me.

Have you tried giving a wiggle test to every wire you can find?

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

132 months

Wednesday 8th May 2019
quotequote all
As above

Don't wiggle but waggle said Hoddle to Waddle

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Wednesday 8th May 2019
quotequote all
Thank you:-) - I'll get wiggling, as it were...

stevieturbo

17,968 posts

270 months

Wednesday 8th May 2019
quotequote all
Really it could be any number of wiring issues...the fact multiple modules are involved could suggest a CAN issue, where modules are failing to talk to each other correctly.

Not an easy thing to trace, and it doesnt take much damage to the wires, corrosion or whatever to cause comms problems.

It could also be a ground, or even batter issue...but sounds more problematic than that and not something the average mechanic will easily be able to trace and sort. ( and that assumes even an actual competent average mechanic which is rare, nevermind someone capable of diagnosing this one )

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
Really it could be any number of wiring issues...the fact multiple modules are involved could suggest a CAN issue, where modules are failing to talk to each other correctly.

Not an easy thing to trace, and it doesnt take much damage to the wires, corrosion or whatever to cause comms problems.

It could also be a ground, or even batter issue...but sounds more problematic than that and not something the average mechanic will easily be able to trace and sort. ( and that assumes even an actual competent average mechanic which is rare, nevermind someone capable of diagnosing this one )
:-( why I mentioned the dealer as that's the last resort in the hope there's some collective knowledge (there's a bulletin for something similar affecting the body control module, but it's clearly not exactly the same as this though). But thanks, appreciate you reading and responding.

fergus

6,430 posts

298 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
I have a 2010 S-max TDCI and had exactly the same symptoms. I was under the impression that the cam belt had been changed when I bought the car. Needless to say it hadn't.... The associated wear in the belt allowed the timing between the cam and crank to get out of accepted tolerances, which causes the engine to shutdown (I can't recall the fault code). New cam belt & tensioner fitted, and a new crank sensor and no more problems!


NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
Thanks - it had a new belt and water pump at about 87K this time last year, but I suppose they could have goofed it up. It's going in the garage in an hour so I'll text them.

fergus

6,430 posts

298 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
NervousEnergy said:
Thanks - it had a new belt and water pump at about 87K this time last year, but I suppose they could have goofed it up. It's going in the garage in an hour so I'll text them.
Ask them to relay all the logged fault codes to you.

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
They've just called me and told me there are NO codes stored - like hell there aren't! I downloaded them this morning and sent them the list, and there's permanently one with the reversing lights because I re-wired them with a relay (£500 otherwise). Dealer tomorrow then:-(

fergus

6,430 posts

298 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
NervousEnergy said:
They've just called me and told me there are NO codes stored - like hell there aren't! I downloaded them this morning and sent them the list, and there's permanently one with the reversing lights because I re-wired them with a relay (£500 otherwise). Dealer tomorrow then:-(
Perhaps they plugged their kit into the 12v socket instead of the OBD port hehe

stevieturbo

17,968 posts

270 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
NervousEnergy said:
:-( why I mentioned the dealer as that's the last resort in the hope there's some collective knowledge (there's a bulletin for something similar affecting the body control module, but it's clearly not exactly the same as this though). But thanks, appreciate you reading and responding.
A dealer would generally be the last resort anyway. Often they are the most expensive and most incompetent. Which is really a bad combination for the customer.



fergus

6,430 posts

298 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
I recall you're looking for code P0016 or P0017 (where the cam timing is not aligned to the correct crank position)

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
A dealer would generally be the last resort anyway. Often they are the most expensive and most incompetent. Which is really a bad combination for the customer.
Mine are definitely expensive (which is why I don't normally go) but they have proved competent in the past - it's worth a phone call

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Thursday 9th May 2019
quotequote all
fergus said:
I recall you're looking for code P0016 or P0017 (where the cam timing is not aligned to the correct crank position)
P0299 - turbo A underboost condition.

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Friday 10th May 2019
quotequote all
Spoke to someone at the dealers who immediately said intermittently-faulty power relay in the BCM - which is reported by Forscan - would explain the cutting out. Also trivially easy to replace so worth a go. Not a 100%, and isn't clear it explains limp mode, but one step at at time.

Now I just need to work out which thing plugged in to the BCM is the power relay:-) beyond the fairly obvious guess. I'd get the dealer to do it since, fair's fair, they did tell me about it - except for the mandatory £100 'diagnostic fee'...

shakindog

512 posts

173 months

Friday 10th May 2019
quotequote all
With it being a non comms code I would have the dash clocks looked at.
Their is a know fault with the solder on the multiplug connection on the circuit board.
They used lead free solder and over time it cracks causing all sorts of cutting out,lights on dash,non start problems getting worse overtime
If your any good with a soldering iron it’s an easy fix you tube is your friend plenty of guides

NervousEnergy

Original Poster:

100 posts

94 months

Friday 10th May 2019
quotequote all
Thanks I will - esp as I've just been quoted £350 (for a relay? In a trivial to reach location?)

stevieturbo

17,968 posts

270 months

Friday 10th May 2019
quotequote all
NervousEnergy said:
Thanks I will - esp as I've just been quoted £350 (for a relay? In a trivial to reach location?)
Because it's probably not just a relay, and depending what it is, may also need coded into the vehicle.



shakindog

512 posts

173 months

Friday 10th May 2019
quotequote all
For the sake of an hour or so it’ll be worth a bash.
It’s a pretty common thing on most of the ford range of around that age.
Happened to a mates focus even slamming the door or a bump in the road would make it cut out and dash light up like a Christmas tree much fun was had getting that home.

Also check the ecu multiplugs in the passenger foot well they can get kicked and come loose.


intermittent faults are always the worst to find and fix