Discussion
I'm a complete novice on the welding front and am getting all sorts of conflicting opinions, some say don't bother with gas at all as the wind will blow it away anyway, possibly true? I'm looking at body work repair, visible ones too! Looking at a Clarke 151en or a bit more an rtech 180 Inverter can I go wrong with either of these?
I can't really know the limitations until I've got going, so your views would be great please?
I can't really know the limitations until I've got going, so your views would be great please?
Welding visible bodywork is a pretty hard target to set yourself. Maybe you can achieve what you want using spot welding. Otherwise plan to work up to that or get a specialist to do it for you.
The stick/mig/tig question doesn't have a single answer and it depends what you want to do. the comment about shielding gasses blowing away could be valid if you're doing heavy welding outside, but is irrelevant if you're doing delicate welding inside.
The stick/mig/tig question doesn't have a single answer and it depends what you want to do. the comment about shielding gasses blowing away could be valid if you're doing heavy welding outside, but is irrelevant if you're doing delicate welding inside.
I bought the R-Tech 180 last year and it is a fantastic welder, it will struggle though with thin sheet. Granted this steel was 0.8mm thick and R-Tech claim down to 1mm iirc, but it meant I had to either pulse weld really slowly or make a fast pass with the gun so as not to burn through.
This wasnt my first welder though and my advice would be to perhaps get something lower powered and easier to setup for those thin sheets, especially for learning.
This wasnt my first welder though and my advice would be to perhaps get something lower powered and easier to setup for those thin sheets, especially for learning.
GreenV8S said:
Welding visible bodywork is a pretty hard target to set yourself. Maybe you can achieve what you want using spot welding. Otherwise plan to work up to that or get a specialist to do it for you.
The stick/mig/tig question doesn't have a single answer and it depends what you want to do. the comment about shielding gasses blowing away could be valid if you're doing heavy welding outside, but is irrelevant if you're doing delicate welding inside.
The stick/mig/tig question doesn't have a single answer and it depends what you want to do. the comment about shielding gasses blowing away could be valid if you're doing heavy welding outside, but is irrelevant if you're doing delicate welding inside.
GreenV8S said:
Welding visible bodywork is a pretty hard target to set yourself. Maybe you can achieve what you want using spot welding. Otherwise plan to work up to that or get a specialist to do it for you.
The stick/mig/tig question doesn't have a single answer and it depends what you want to do. the comment about shielding gasses blowing away could be valid if you're doing heavy welding outside, but is irrelevant if you're doing delicate welding inside.
Thanks, I don't have a garage so would all be outside! I'm anticipating using welder for years to come but looking at costs, it may be an idea to pay someone to do it and wait for eBay!The stick/mig/tig question doesn't have a single answer and it depends what you want to do. the comment about shielding gasses blowing away could be valid if you're doing heavy welding outside, but is irrelevant if you're doing delicate welding inside.
Bit of reading for you:
www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/
If you're welding car body work then mig is going to be the easiest.
No reason why you can't weld outside, I have for years. Big bits of cardboard strategically arranged will help stop the shielding gas being blown away.
I have the Clarke 151EN.
The small gas bottles for use with most home migs don't last & I converted mine to work with normal bottles years ago - more expense as you'll need a proper regulator as well as the bottle.
www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/
If you're welding car body work then mig is going to be the easiest.
No reason why you can't weld outside, I have for years. Big bits of cardboard strategically arranged will help stop the shielding gas being blown away.
I have the Clarke 151EN.
The small gas bottles for use with most home migs don't last & I converted mine to work with normal bottles years ago - more expense as you'll need a proper regulator as well as the bottle.
Edited by paintman on Monday 13th May 08:31
Maybe look at a 2nd hand Portamig 180/185, they will run ok off a 13A plug. Bombproof sets that run nicely at low power settings. Seems like a big outlay (~£300) but you will make your money back on it if welding isn't for you.
Defo get a gas setup, gasless is horrible.
Don't forget to budget for things like a decent auto mask, gauntlets, snips, cutting discs, clamps etc. I got some navy surplus welding overalls which were great. I think BOC still do the "Volkszone" offer for hobby welding, works out pretty reasonable.
Defo get a gas setup, gasless is horrible.
Don't forget to budget for things like a decent auto mask, gauntlets, snips, cutting discs, clamps etc. I got some navy surplus welding overalls which were great. I think BOC still do the "Volkszone" offer for hobby welding, works out pretty reasonable.
lufbramatt said:
Maybe look at a 2nd hand Portamig 180/185, they will run ok off a 13A plug. Bombproof sets that run nicely at low power settings. Seems like a big outlay (~£300) but you will make your money back on it if welding isn't for you.
Second on the Portamig - great sets that aren't too expensive (relatively) and real quality.I was a bit short of funds to stretch for one so bought a 30A-capable Sealey, it's good, but not as good as the Portamig is.
The best welder I've ever used for low power was a Lincoln 300A unit, but you could select the power output to a 5A range, and it was so controlled with adjustable rise rates etc, magnificent. £4k unit mind.
I was given an old Sealey Supermig 150 which I then converted to Eurotorch with a solenoid gas valve. I use a Hobbyweld gas bottle and the set up works great for me. There's a one off charge of £50 for the bottle and the regulator cost around £45
On thin sheet metal (Minis in my case) I've found that 0.6mm wire gives you a bit more control but distortion and burn through is always an issue unless you take it easy.
On thin sheet metal (Minis in my case) I've found that 0.6mm wire gives you a bit more control but distortion and burn through is always an issue unless you take it easy.
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff