MT10 oil consumption
Discussion
As per the thread title, how much oil consumption would you consider to be excessive?
I need to work out exactly how much I'm using but my initial best estimate is somewhere in the region of 500ml to 1L per 1k miles. The bike is on 10k miles now and only really started needing topped up over the last 3k.
I need to work out exactly how much I'm using but my initial best estimate is somewhere in the region of 500ml to 1L per 1k miles. The bike is on 10k miles now and only really started needing topped up over the last 3k.
My 16 and my current 19 Tuono both used a bit initially but settled after a few thousand miles
My 19 was quite excessive but I think the riding being quite hard on a fairly fresh engine (1000 miles) didn't help
Mine used 700ish ml between 800 and 2000 miles while away in Germany... Ironically I used yamalube out there as its all there was
My 19 was quite excessive but I think the riding being quite hard on a fairly fresh engine (1000 miles) didn't help
Mine used 700ish ml between 800 and 2000 miles while away in Germany... Ironically I used yamalube out there as its all there was
chris4652009 said:
Speaking from personal experience Yamaha have always said that up to 1liter per 1000miles is considered acceptable.
Good to hear, I don't think it's over that anyway.Biker's Nemesis said:
I don't know if this makes any difference but I have always ran my bikes on semi-synthetic. My 2016 R1 also doesn't burn oil.
I've been using yamalube semi-synthetic too.Birky_41 said:
My 16 and my current 19 Tuono both used a bit initially but settled after a few thousand miles
My 19 was quite excessive but I think the riding being quite hard on a fairly fresh engine (1000 miles) didn't help
I went reasonably easy on mine until the breaking in service at about 500 miles however its had a fair bit of abuse since then!!!!My 19 was quite excessive but I think the riding being quite hard on a fairly fresh engine (1000 miles) didn't help
I use the 'motorsports' break in method on my new bikes including my new MT10.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I switch to fully synth straight after 1st oil change and none of my new bikes have ever used any oil. Conversely my dad who's had a new sports tourer every 3 years for the last 30 years, runs his in to the letter and most sip some oil thereafter. This is not due to wear but due to poorer ring/bore seal.
The arguments for semi vs fully synth rage on, but there are plenty of repeatable scientific demonstrations on-line that demonstrate that fully synth holds its grade better throughout service life. Regarding impact on oil consumption, semi synth gets much thinner (loses grade) when hot, as it gets more miles through it. Thinner oil more easily gets past rings and burns off, plus offers less wear protection. Also, semi-synth gets thicker when cold over its life, meaning less flow and protection when engine is cold vs fully synth. Over time, this will mean more ring and bore wear = more oil consumption.
Personally I think 10W 30 is too thin to start with in modern sports bikes in the UK. Using 10W 40 might cost a little power, but when the engine is hot and the oil is older, its desirable to help reduce wear and thicker oil has a harder time getting past rings. Both mean less oil consumption.
I know my results are not 100% scientific, but if you drop the oil on any new bike for last 20 years after run-in, there's no flash or metal in the oil. You are looking to seal the piston rings to the bores though which you can affect. Really the only parts needing running in on a modern bike are the brake pads and the clutch plates.
As for what OP can do now? Not a lot other than run 10W40 fully synth going forward.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I switch to fully synth straight after 1st oil change and none of my new bikes have ever used any oil. Conversely my dad who's had a new sports tourer every 3 years for the last 30 years, runs his in to the letter and most sip some oil thereafter. This is not due to wear but due to poorer ring/bore seal.
The arguments for semi vs fully synth rage on, but there are plenty of repeatable scientific demonstrations on-line that demonstrate that fully synth holds its grade better throughout service life. Regarding impact on oil consumption, semi synth gets much thinner (loses grade) when hot, as it gets more miles through it. Thinner oil more easily gets past rings and burns off, plus offers less wear protection. Also, semi-synth gets thicker when cold over its life, meaning less flow and protection when engine is cold vs fully synth. Over time, this will mean more ring and bore wear = more oil consumption.
Personally I think 10W 30 is too thin to start with in modern sports bikes in the UK. Using 10W 40 might cost a little power, but when the engine is hot and the oil is older, its desirable to help reduce wear and thicker oil has a harder time getting past rings. Both mean less oil consumption.
I know my results are not 100% scientific, but if you drop the oil on any new bike for last 20 years after run-in, there's no flash or metal in the oil. You are looking to seal the piston rings to the bores though which you can affect. Really the only parts needing running in on a modern bike are the brake pads and the clutch plates.
As for what OP can do now? Not a lot other than run 10W40 fully synth going forward.
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