clutch keeps loosing pressure 96 cerbera
Discussion
Do you have any fluid around the pedal? Any black deposits in the reservoir?
Basically;
Fluid around the pedal is the master cylinder (Cheap ish)
Fluid underneath the car will be the Slave cylinder (Expensive ish)
If it is the slave then make sure to look at the clutch itself. It’s the cheapest time to change the clutch as the labour will be covered.
Oh and fit a new release bearing.
edited to change slave to master
>> Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Tuesday 24th May 21:24
Basically;
Fluid around the pedal is the master cylinder (Cheap ish)
Fluid underneath the car will be the Slave cylinder (Expensive ish)
If it is the slave then make sure to look at the clutch itself. It’s the cheapest time to change the clutch as the labour will be covered.
Oh and fit a new release bearing.
edited to change slave to master
>> Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Tuesday 24th May 21:24
I'm on my second Cerb and both have had exactly the same problem with the master cylinder seals being worn. Contrary to popular belief this can't just be checked by looking in the footwell for a wet patch - you'll need to remove the vertical bit of carpet behind the pedals to see the back of the master cylinder and any leaks.
On my last Cerb I changed the entire clutch master cylinder, which was a fiddly job, but this time around I only replaced the seals on the master cylinder. I picked up a set of Lucas seals from Joospeed for under a tenner and (after a bit of advice from him), removed the master cylinder piston. With this part on the bench it's easy to figure out what goes where. Total time for job is about an hour, mainly due to the access under the pedals being so tight.
You'll need to cut away some of the mastic around the cover of the clutch master cylinder cover to unscrew and remove the black fibreglass access plate and it's also a good idea to clean out any gunk in the master cylinder with clean kitchen towel. I also dismantled the cap as I found lots of black bits in that, too.
For bleeding it I'd use a decent race-type fluid (as it runs so close to the exhaust and back of engine) such as ATE Super Blue (from Euro Car Parts and a bargain at around £10 a litre). I've had problems with the bleed nipples on the Cerb and found it's best to wrap a bit of plumbers tape around it so that no air gets sucked in while bleeding it.
Total cost for this fix was £10 for the seals and about £2.50 worth of brake fluid, while it took around two hours in total (about 30mins of bleeding). Hope this helps!
On my last Cerb I changed the entire clutch master cylinder, which was a fiddly job, but this time around I only replaced the seals on the master cylinder. I picked up a set of Lucas seals from Joospeed for under a tenner and (after a bit of advice from him), removed the master cylinder piston. With this part on the bench it's easy to figure out what goes where. Total time for job is about an hour, mainly due to the access under the pedals being so tight.
You'll need to cut away some of the mastic around the cover of the clutch master cylinder cover to unscrew and remove the black fibreglass access plate and it's also a good idea to clean out any gunk in the master cylinder with clean kitchen towel. I also dismantled the cap as I found lots of black bits in that, too.
For bleeding it I'd use a decent race-type fluid (as it runs so close to the exhaust and back of engine) such as ATE Super Blue (from Euro Car Parts and a bargain at around £10 a litre). I've had problems with the bleed nipples on the Cerb and found it's best to wrap a bit of plumbers tape around it so that no air gets sucked in while bleeding it.
Total cost for this fix was £10 for the seals and about £2.50 worth of brake fluid, while it took around two hours in total (about 30mins of bleeding). Hope this helps!
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