Audiolab 8000m died, what might it be?
Discussion
As per the title. Checked all the connectors, and swapped the speaker cables over between the amps, which confirmed.
It may be how long is a piece of string, but any suggestions before I call Audiolab, and presumably send it to them?
For the record, I'm not planning to undertake any repair myself, short of it being something like a fuse or similar.
It may be how long is a piece of string, but any suggestions before I call Audiolab, and presumably send it to them?
For the record, I'm not planning to undertake any repair myself, short of it being something like a fuse or similar.
Edited by Fermit and Sexy Sarah on Friday 31st May 20:50
What's happened? Total loss of output or something else?
8000M is a mono amp... Possibly drive transistors? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPmOXTG52dw
Capacitors do different jobs, stuff like smoothing power supplies - basically they're like very tiny batteries.
Costs to fix will be 99% labour. All the parts in will be pennies.
8000M is a mono amp... Possibly drive transistors? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPmOXTG52dw
Capacitors do different jobs, stuff like smoothing power supplies - basically they're like very tiny batteries.
Costs to fix will be 99% labour. All the parts in will be pennies.
silentbrown said:
What's happened? Total loss of output or something else?
8000M is a mono amp... Possibly drive transistors? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPmOXTG52dw
Capacitors do different jobs, stuff like smoothing power supplies - basically they're like very tiny batteries.
Costs to fix will be 99% labour. All the parts in will be pennies.
Brilliant, ta. What happened, went to put Blondie on, and she was singing out of one speaker. Power light is on.8000M is a mono amp... Possibly drive transistors? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPmOXTG52dw
Capacitors do different jobs, stuff like smoothing power supplies - basically they're like very tiny batteries.
Costs to fix will be 99% labour. All the parts in will be pennies.
That only proves that power is going to the LED, not necessarily to the rest of the amplifier.
You'll have to take the lid off and start checking inside to see whether power is getting to all parts of the amp, and you can inspect the capacitors visually to check none have blown, along with any internal fuses.
You'll have to take the lid off and start checking inside to see whether power is getting to all parts of the amp, and you can inspect the capacitors visually to check none have blown, along with any internal fuses.
Monty Python said:
That only proves that power is going to the LED, not necessarily to the rest of the amplifier.
You'll have to take the lid off and start checking inside to see whether power is getting to all parts of the amp, and you can inspect the capacitors visually to check none have blown, along with any internal fuses.
It has been suggested by Audiolab that is what it may be. They no longer support the 8000M, but they still supply parts. It's about to be sent to a repair centre, so let's hope it's nothing ruinous! You'll have to take the lid off and start checking inside to see whether power is getting to all parts of the amp, and you can inspect the capacitors visually to check none have blown, along with any internal fuses.
mgv8 said:
If the PSU is working then the FET would be my next call. Audio amps are not that hard to fix (in most cases) but it depends on how long it will take to make it worth it. The last amp I did only one audio channel was down but every transistor in the chain had gone.
I'm sure they are, but electricity is one of the very few things I wont touch. I had (have) an early 8000a (DIN sockets) that one channel died on got it repaired by Audiolab think it was output transistors. Wasn't hugely expensive but that was a good few years ago, just before the Tag-McLaren takeover.
Would really like a 8000 pre/power combination (but one that works ;-)
Would really like a 8000 pre/power combination (but one that works ;-)
jumare said:
I had (have) an early 8000a (DIN sockets) that one channel died on got it repaired by Audiolab think it was output transistors. Wasn't hugely expensive but that was a good few years ago, just before the Tag-McLaren takeover.
Would really like a 8000 pre/power combination (but one that works ;-)
That's a shame, as a few years ago I offloaded a pristine 8000a. I've sourced a local place who can (hopefully) repair it, and have the shipping label ready. May be a while before I send it, as slightly more pressing issues on the home front ATM. Would really like a 8000 pre/power combination (but one that works ;-)
troika said:
Anything to do with Audiolab, send it to Kevin Green at Audio Cellar. Google him and thank me later.
Thank you very much. I'll call him Monday, as I have just also just received a new LED for the Tag MC CD player which needs sorting. From a recommended seller elsewhere on Pistonheads. Tag MC are no longer supported, and been literally looking all round the world for that with no joy, so thanks again to that man! troika said:
Anything to do with Audiolab, send it to Kevin Green at Audio Cellar. Google him and thank me later.
Is he still about? Google doesn't seem to produce much and nothing recent.My 8000CD has a similar issue. Power lights come on but not much else. 1 fuse had blown which i replaced. PSU is working as it should and the DAC seems to do something as the SPDIF output still shines.
Voltage is getting through to the transport, so i think probably the front panel board is kaput. No obvious signs of burning or bulging caps.
One of my 8000Ms runs much warmer than the other but sound absolutely fine.
The_Burg said:
Is he still about? Google doesn't seem to produce much and nothing recent.
My 8000CD has a similar issue. Power lights come on but not much else. 1 fuse had blown which i replaced. PSU is working as it should and the DAC seems to do something as the SPDIF output still shines.
Voltage is getting through to the transport, so i think probably the front panel board is kaput. No obvious signs of burning or bulging caps.
One of my 8000Ms runs much warmer than the other but sound absolutely fine.
I reached him on kevingreen@kgreen.co.uk after a bit of digging, and at some point I need to send him the 8000m, and also my Tag CD player needs its LED replacing. My 8000CD has a similar issue. Power lights come on but not much else. 1 fuse had blown which i replaced. PSU is working as it should and the DAC seems to do something as the SPDIF output still shines.
Voltage is getting through to the transport, so i think probably the front panel board is kaput. No obvious signs of burning or bulging caps.
One of my 8000Ms runs much warmer than the other but sound absolutely fine.
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