Starts then stops
Discussion
I hope you don’t mind me posting in this forum, hopefully someone can help? . I went to take my Griff 500 out of the garage and the car started as normal...ran for a few seconds then stopped again, it then restarts no problem and then cuts out again. The fuel pump is priming ok. I’ve been having a lot of issues of late with the car misfiring and even cutting out whilst driving but each time it has came ok again. Ive connected the RG but it shows no fault codes (I assume it doesn’t run long enough to register a fault ?)
To date I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, air filter, ignition amplifier and coil.
Has anyone any suggestions ?
To date I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, air filter, ignition amplifier and coil.
Has anyone any suggestions ?
I’ve tried several times with the same result......start run for 2-3 seconds then stop then start no problem. I disconnected the maf sensor but no difference.
I then disconnected the battery to reset the ECU, on starting the car it only ran for maybe 1 second this time but would not start again, I put an inline spark tester and found no spark! I’ve now discovered that the Rovergauge will not connect with the ECU and there is no live feed from the ignition switch to the Fuel pump relay.
I then disconnected the battery to reset the ECU, on starting the car it only ran for maybe 1 second this time but would not start again, I put an inline spark tester and found no spark! I’ve now discovered that the Rovergauge will not connect with the ECU and there is no live feed from the ignition switch to the Fuel pump relay.
Dougal9887 said:
That sounds like an immobiliser fault. Maybe shouldn't state a bypass here, but that's the test.
I’ll remove the dash again tomorrow ( I should have put it in with Velcro...the amount of times it’s been out lately!!) I bypassed it last time to check but it wasn’t the problem, but I need to eliminate it again.das2000m said:
Dougal9887 said:
That sounds like an immobiliser fault. Maybe shouldn't state a bypass here, but that's the test.
I’ll remove the dash again tomorrow ( I should have put it in with Velcro...the amount of times it’s been out lately!!) I bypassed it last time to check but it wasn’t the problem, but I need to eliminate it again.Belle427 said:
Still needs to be ruled out even if it is unlikely, I'm sure I read another Griff owner found that his coil circuit was running through the immobiliser.
Worth checking voltage at coil positive terminal if you have no spark at king lead.
I just nipped out and checked the voltage at the coil with the ignition on and nothing!!Worth checking voltage at coil positive terminal if you have no spark at king lead.
Make yourself a test light ideally with a 21W bulb. A multimeter may show a voltage but poor contacts somewhere may mean there is no current. A bulb this size will prove both.
You need to prove where the fail is so start with the coil positive. Lamp will be on when you turn on ignition but does it stay on when engine dies.
Repeat tests on the main power relay and fuel pump relay. At each relay test pin 30, Pin 86, and both pins 87.
That will keep you busy for a while.
Steve
You need to prove where the fail is so start with the coil positive. Lamp will be on when you turn on ignition but does it stay on when engine dies.
Repeat tests on the main power relay and fuel pump relay. At each relay test pin 30, Pin 86, and both pins 87.
That will keep you busy for a while.
Steve
Steve_D said:
Make yourself a test light ideally with a 21W bulb. A multimeter may show a voltage but poor contacts somewhere may mean there is no current. A bulb this size will prove both.
You need to prove where the fail is so start with the coil positive. Lamp will be on when you turn on ignition but does it stay on when engine dies.
Repeat tests on the main power relay and fuel pump relay. At each relay test pin 30, Pin 86, and both pins 87.
That will keep you busy for a while.
Steve
Thanks for the suggestion Steve, as I mentioned previously, when I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU the car started and it ran for maybe a second then died, now it will not start at all, no spark, no fuel pump prime, no voltage at the coil, it still turns over ok. Up until I did that the car would start and run for maybe 3 seconds then stop, but would restart again for another 3 seconds. I’ve check for an air leak in the pipe between the AFM and the plenum as I believe than can give the same symptoms. I had the same issue a few weeks ago but after doing a lot of checking for continuity, voltage, relays etc in the footwell area everything mysteriously started working again and it was fine for maybe 60 miles.You need to prove where the fail is so start with the coil positive. Lamp will be on when you turn on ignition but does it stay on when engine dies.
Repeat tests on the main power relay and fuel pump relay. At each relay test pin 30, Pin 86, and both pins 87.
That will keep you busy for a while.
Steve
This is starting to look like another fusebox issue which I discussed on earlier threads.
The fusebox post mortem showed most of the corrosion to be the contacts for the ignition relay (5) So it may be worth getting in there and doing multiple insertions of the relay and see if that cleans the contacts. Most of the circuits on the car are in some way associated with these ignition supplies.
Steve
The fusebox post mortem showed most of the corrosion to be the contacts for the ignition relay (5) So it may be worth getting in there and doing multiple insertions of the relay and see if that cleans the contacts. Most of the circuits on the car are in some way associated with these ignition supplies.
Steve
Steve_D said:
This is starting to look like another fusebox issue which I discussed on earlier threads.
The fusebox post mortem showed most of the corrosion to be the contacts for the ignition relay (5) So it may be worth getting in there and doing multiple insertions of the relay and see if that cleans the contacts. Most of the circuits on the car are in some way associated with these ignition supplies.
Steve
I actually replaced the Ignition relay last time round but it did not seem to make a difference, but yes it could easily be a fuse box issue. I have also been following the ‘postmortem’. The fusebox post mortem showed most of the corrosion to be the contacts for the ignition relay (5) So it may be worth getting in there and doing multiple insertions of the relay and see if that cleans the contacts. Most of the circuits on the car are in some way associated with these ignition supplies.
Steve
I’ll have another go at it tomorrow. I appreciate your help.
Dave.
Paulprior said:
I have had this problem before with only starting for a second or 2, but on mine if I put the immobiliser on then off it fires up and runs ok again
Thinking back, apart from a misfire the first time the engine cut out, started and stopped, (about 6 times) I then attempted to push the car into the side of the road.....I tried again and it started and ran perfectl’y, probably for a few hundred miles. THIS was before my immobiliser packed in. I replaced it with a new Meta system from HF solutions.I have and have had the same issue a few times since...... starts and stops, and once before like now when it wouldn’t start at all. On one occasion before it cut out I’d done over 600 miles without issue, so very random.
So.....as I’m assuming that as the problem was present PRE new immobiliser it must be something other, and the last time it happened I bypassed the immobiliser to eliminate it, which did not help Im now going to pull the fuse box and have a look as Steve suggested.
It might be worth checking the blue plug that's taped close and tight to the loom and the looped out black plug that may have an immobilisation circuit wired into it
See below image posted by Classic Chim that I found here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Have you seen this below image that I found here http://www.bertram-hill.com/tvr-griffith-ignition....
See below image posted by Classic Chim that I found here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Have you seen this below image that I found here http://www.bertram-hill.com/tvr-griffith-ignition....
Belle427 said:
Good info that, I'd be interested to know if it's the same as a chim as I ripped out my 14 cux yesterday and it would help to know when connecting up the new ecu.
Have you a diagram with what you are wiring in?Were the oil light, battery light and temp gauge etc cables in the 14CUX ECU loom or seperate
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