Startermotor grrrrrrrrrrr
Discussion
Hi there,
I am having real problems with my startermotor at the moment, the solenoid just clicks and the motor does nothing. :( The thing is that I have just changed the battery for an up-rated one (old one was dying), so surely it can’t be that. I then changed the startermotor for a new one (after first checking the old one was knackered by connecting it up off of the car), so it can’t be that. The lights dip indicating there is a power drain when I turn the key, the solenoid appears to be actuating. The supply cable is good, what else can it be :weeping:
:scratchchin: The only other thing I was messing with on the car just before this happened was the dash. I finally got around to sticking the clocks back in after they fell off the back of the dash some time ago. If I had disturbed the wires at all would the thing even be clicking when I turn the key. The starter has a direct feed from the battery, what other things could be affecting it.
Groan,
Z
I am having real problems with my startermotor at the moment, the solenoid just clicks and the motor does nothing. :( The thing is that I have just changed the battery for an up-rated one (old one was dying), so surely it can’t be that. I then changed the startermotor for a new one (after first checking the old one was knackered by connecting it up off of the car), so it can’t be that. The lights dip indicating there is a power drain when I turn the key, the solenoid appears to be actuating. The supply cable is good, what else can it be :weeping:
:scratchchin: The only other thing I was messing with on the car just before this happened was the dash. I finally got around to sticking the clocks back in after they fell off the back of the dash some time ago. If I had disturbed the wires at all would the thing even be clicking when I turn the key. The starter has a direct feed from the battery, what other things could be affecting it.
Groan,
Z
Just thinking out loud here, but...
Assuming that the engine is not seized
What is the battery voltage ? Anything less than 12v-12.5v and chances are it needs a full charge. Worth checking what the battery voltage drops to when the key is turned to the start position as well.
Double check that the battery terminals are tight.
The lights dim and the solenoid clicks so it sounds like the ignition switch is sending 12v to the solenoid. You can check for sure by disconnecting the solenoid wire that comes from the ignition switch (spade connector ?) and measuring for 12v when the key is turned.
You can check that the starter works by shorting across the solenoid posts (wear rubber gloves or use an insulated screwdriver and make sure the car is in neutral !). If she spins up now and you have 12v to the solenoid, that would suggest the solenoid is playing up. You can verify this by turning the key and checking for 12v on the solenoid post, starter side.
There's not that much to the starter circuit so it shouldn't be a major problem to pinpoint the fault as long as you systematically eliminate possibilites.
Hope this doesn't come across as granny sucking eggs and all that....
>> Edited by sotonS2 on Wednesday 25th May 12:51
Assuming that the engine is not seized
What is the battery voltage ? Anything less than 12v-12.5v and chances are it needs a full charge. Worth checking what the battery voltage drops to when the key is turned to the start position as well.
Double check that the battery terminals are tight.
The lights dim and the solenoid clicks so it sounds like the ignition switch is sending 12v to the solenoid. You can check for sure by disconnecting the solenoid wire that comes from the ignition switch (spade connector ?) and measuring for 12v when the key is turned.
You can check that the starter works by shorting across the solenoid posts (wear rubber gloves or use an insulated screwdriver and make sure the car is in neutral !). If she spins up now and you have 12v to the solenoid, that would suggest the solenoid is playing up. You can verify this by turning the key and checking for 12v on the solenoid post, starter side.
There's not that much to the starter circuit so it shouldn't be a major problem to pinpoint the fault as long as you systematically eliminate possibilites.
Hope this doesn't come across as granny sucking eggs and all that....
>> Edited by sotonS2 on Wednesday 25th May 12:51
flinny said:
A huge list of suggestions and I'd like to add one more. If you car has an alarm/immobilser I would also check this as you may have tripped it when changing your battery ( I had same problem on my escort).
Very good point flinny and one I hadn't considered. But wouldn't an active immobiliser mean that the solenoid wouldn't 'click' ?
Was the starter motor brand spanking new or just a recon. because I had a recon. once that hadn't been fully 'reconned', in that the large copper contacts within the solenoid switch had not been dressed up or replaced...they were burnt and pitted causing a high resistance contact...it is only 12 volts...not a lot of pressure. Anyways...I got the click but no spinney spinney...
..just another thought.
PS how the fack do you suck an egg anyway....
..just another thought.
PS how the fack do you suck an egg anyway....
Not necessarily. When it went on my Escort all I got was the click from the solenoid and nothing else. I didn't understand it as the lights worked correctly and the central locking operated at usual speed, usually a first indicator the battery's on the blink. I figured it must have been the immobiliser or something to do with the alarm as all other the electrics were working correctly, ie ignition lights etc. I removed the positive terminal and replaced and it seemed to sort itself out.
Hi. having had to sort out this kinda problem on many different cars in the past, the most common cause is usually poor connections on main battery positive wire, connection at secondary side of solenoid into motor proper or main engine earth. Check these first, keep it simple, just remove the connections one at a time clean and lube with some grease or vaseline and refit. As stated in a previous post, if you short across the two main contacts on the solenoid the motor should run, if it doesnt and all ya connections are good then the motor is duff. If the motor does run after doing that test try removing starter from bell housing, earth it to battery using a jump lead and try it again on the key(be careful, get a good hold of it while somebody turns the key cos it will try to jump out of ya hands if it works). If it still doesn't run on the key then ya can be fairly sure the solenoid is duff. If it works off the car but not on, it could be that it is the wrong starter and cannot mesh with the ring gear on the fly wheel so is jamming up..
Good luck, hope this is some help.
Carl.
Good luck, hope this is some help.
Carl.
Hi
I've just been through this with mine, it would start fine and run but when it got hot sometimes it would click a couple of times and then start. Eventually the starter would just click and nothing else, if I did it often enough the solenoid would stop clicking. I changed the battery, starter motor, had it all out including the cables and cleaned it. this improved things for a while then it was back again.
In the end it was a combination of the main lead from the battery to the starter motor which had poor connections at both ends and the earth cable that leads from the battery down to the chassis.
The main positive lead to the starter motor had frayed at the battery terminal and the ring to connect to the starter motor was also not securely fastened. It wasn't immediately obvious but measuring with a voltmeter I was seeing 1-2 volt drop across the cable.
The earth link back from the chassis was new last year and was connected via one of the bolts on the bottom of the swirl pot. I was seeing a voltage drop of less than 1 volt across that but when I changed the cable for a longer one and moved it to the earth point on the chassis rail there was no measurable voltage drop.
It wasn't until I moved the earth lead onto the chassis earth point that things started to work and, touch wood, I've not had a single problem since.
I made up a completely new +ve lead because the old one was looking shabby and I wasn't sure that I was getting a good enough electrical connection at the terminals. I would have preferred to have one made and soldered but I wasn't able to find anyone who could make them up to order and the ones from the normal aources were not long enough. In the end I had to use a crimp type ring terminal and a battery connector with screw terminals. I crimped the ring terminal in a bench vice to get a really tight fit and used a socket set to tighten the bolts on the battery connector.
The earth point for the engine/gearbox back to the chassis is on the back of the gerarbox to the chassis rail in the transmission tunnel on the same side of the starter motor.
Colin
I've just been through this with mine, it would start fine and run but when it got hot sometimes it would click a couple of times and then start. Eventually the starter would just click and nothing else, if I did it often enough the solenoid would stop clicking. I changed the battery, starter motor, had it all out including the cables and cleaned it. this improved things for a while then it was back again.
In the end it was a combination of the main lead from the battery to the starter motor which had poor connections at both ends and the earth cable that leads from the battery down to the chassis.
The main positive lead to the starter motor had frayed at the battery terminal and the ring to connect to the starter motor was also not securely fastened. It wasn't immediately obvious but measuring with a voltmeter I was seeing 1-2 volt drop across the cable.
The earth link back from the chassis was new last year and was connected via one of the bolts on the bottom of the swirl pot. I was seeing a voltage drop of less than 1 volt across that but when I changed the cable for a longer one and moved it to the earth point on the chassis rail there was no measurable voltage drop.
It wasn't until I moved the earth lead onto the chassis earth point that things started to work and, touch wood, I've not had a single problem since.
I made up a completely new +ve lead because the old one was looking shabby and I wasn't sure that I was getting a good enough electrical connection at the terminals. I would have preferred to have one made and soldered but I wasn't able to find anyone who could make them up to order and the ones from the normal aources were not long enough. In the end I had to use a crimp type ring terminal and a battery connector with screw terminals. I crimped the ring terminal in a bench vice to get a really tight fit and used a socket set to tighten the bolts on the battery connector.
The earth point for the engine/gearbox back to the chassis is on the back of the gerarbox to the chassis rail in the transmission tunnel on the same side of the starter motor.
Colin
Hi guys,
Thanks for the tips. I have tried just about all of the things suggested.
The solenoid will fire with a 12V feed from the battery, just as it will when turning the ignition, so that rules out the ignition problem. The starter appears to engage as the lights dim upon the solenoid firing and the voltage drops across the battery. Fortunately the engine is not seized, shown by engine turning while in bump start mode. I tried a direct feed using a jump lead directly from the battery onto the starter and the same happened. The starter is a completely reconditioned unit with brand new connections, I suppose I should have tested it off of the car to make sure (I may take it off and have a go). I earthed the starter directly to make sure it was not an earth problem.
So, IFAIK that leaves the battery, it must be it. In fact I would not be at all surprised if the cretins at the motorfactors have managed to supply me with completely the wrong one. I will keep you posted.
Z
Thanks for the tips. I have tried just about all of the things suggested.
The solenoid will fire with a 12V feed from the battery, just as it will when turning the ignition, so that rules out the ignition problem. The starter appears to engage as the lights dim upon the solenoid firing and the voltage drops across the battery. Fortunately the engine is not seized, shown by engine turning while in bump start mode. I tried a direct feed using a jump lead directly from the battery onto the starter and the same happened. The starter is a completely reconditioned unit with brand new connections, I suppose I should have tested it off of the car to make sure (I may take it off and have a go). I earthed the starter directly to make sure it was not an earth problem.
So, IFAIK that leaves the battery, it must be it. In fact I would not be at all surprised if the cretins at the motorfactors have managed to supply me with completely the wrong one. I will keep you posted.
Z
Hi Z
If you have a voltmeter/multimeter it shouldn't be too hard to identify the problem. First check the battery voltage across the battery terminals - not the clamps, or the earth strap - they can be faulty too - but the battery terminal posts themselves. Make sure you get a ggod contact with the probes on the meter. Voltage should be 12v when everything switched off. Then get someone else to turn the key and click the solenoid while you watch the voltage. If it only drops 'a bit' say to 9, 10 volts, then something else is wrong. If it falls 'a lot' eg to 3v, then your battery is goosed.
If battery is OK , then check the solenoid by putting the voltmeter across the two main terminals. Should read 12v. Once again get your mate to turn the ign key till the solenoid clicks. Voltage should drop to 0v. If not, then the solenoid contacts are duff.
Hope this gets you somewhere!
pg
If you have a voltmeter/multimeter it shouldn't be too hard to identify the problem. First check the battery voltage across the battery terminals - not the clamps, or the earth strap - they can be faulty too - but the battery terminal posts themselves. Make sure you get a ggod contact with the probes on the meter. Voltage should be 12v when everything switched off. Then get someone else to turn the key and click the solenoid while you watch the voltage. If it only drops 'a bit' say to 9, 10 volts, then something else is wrong. If it falls 'a lot' eg to 3v, then your battery is goosed.
If battery is OK , then check the solenoid by putting the voltmeter across the two main terminals. Should read 12v. Once again get your mate to turn the ign key till the solenoid clicks. Voltage should drop to 0v. If not, then the solenoid contacts are duff.
Hope this gets you somewhere!
pg
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