Things to do when laying a car up

[2Btoo]

Hi,

I'm going to be laying my car up. It's a 944 which I have owned for a long time (15 years) and I won't be able to afford to keep running it when the ULEZ is extended in London. I therefore propose to store the car for a period of years (possibly up to 10 years). I have heard lots of advice about what to do and what not to do and I am aware that many people think that it's wiser to sell and re-buy rather than storing it. However for various reasons I don't want to do this.

This thread is looking for practical advice on what to do to preserve the car. It will be in an unheated garage in the South East. The garage has brick walls and a good roof as well as a concrete floor. It is waterproof but well-ventilated.

There is no power to the garage so putting it in a carcoon (or similar) is not an option. The car is mechanically in excellent condition and the body is in good condition. There are a couple of spots of rust and some areas that could do with some paint (the front has the usual stone chips on it for instance) but nothing of any concern.

My plans are as follows and I'd welcome any advice from people who have done this before as to what is not worth doing, what could be done better and what I should be doing that is not on the list. I am a big fan of Bilt Hamber (BH) products and hence there are many references to their stuff here.

- Treat any existing rust with a wire brush and a rust-dissolving product (BH Deox Gel) to remove it where possible. Apply rust-converter (Hydrate 80) to whatever is left.
- Apply anti-corrosion wax (BH Dynax S50) liberally to the sills and other box sections around the car
- Apply clear anti-corrosion wax (BH Dynax UC) to the inside of the wheel arches and the inside of all body panels that can be accessed (remove door panels and rear panels and boot trim as necessary) as well as around the engine bay onto anything that may rust
- Apply more clear anti-corrosion wax to the wheel arch lips, the outside of the wheel arches, the outside of the sills, the outside of the lower panels of the car and any areas that were previously treated with the Hydrate 80.
- Apply regular wax (BH Auto Balm) to the rest of the body
- Change engine oil before putting car into storage, over-filling the sump to ensure that the crankshaft and lower ends of the con rods are covered
- Put a small amount (50cc perhaps) of oil into the engine bores and turn the engine over by hand to ensure it is smeared all over the bores. Replace spark plugs
- Remove wheels and brake pads, storing car on axle stands. Spray WD40 or clear wax onto the brake calipers and disks
- Jam clutch pedal down with piece of wood to prevent clutch plate from seizing onto flywheel
- Put bag of silica gel into cabin. Change this regularly for one that has been dried
- Release air conditioning bomb in cabin as this will reduce mildew on upholstery
- Remove battery and store away from the car

I am in two minds as to whether to cover the car or not. A light breathable car cover would keep rubbish off the paint but I am not sure whether this is necessary. Any recommendations would be welcome.

I am also unsure what to do about preserving rubber parts on the car - both seals as well as rubber hoses under the bonnet. Advice welcomed for this as well.


Thanks.

[Heaveho]

I've had experience of this several times. It's going to read as possibly a bit simplistic, but....

My Evo. It went into a dry double garage and left for 16 months. I didn't leave it on trickle, I'd already decided to replace the battery when I came back, and disconnected it. It was left in gear, handbrake off, with a sheet over it and the windows very slightly open to avoid mildew. I should have blown the tyres up to above the normal pressure, but didn't.

When I came back, I replaced the battery, removed the plugs, squirted a little oil down the bores, disconnected various leads and stuff to stop it getting a spark and fuel, cranked it to get oil pressure, replaced everything, started it and drove it away immediately. It's obviously a turbo, so drove it gently until it had used all of the fuel it had in it, brimmed it with fresh, and continued to use it. After the about 100 miles, the tyres went from being square to round again. It has to stand in similar circumstances for several months a year, has done for the 16 years I've owned it, and it's been probably the most reliable car I've ever owned.

My 1988 MR2. It was put in a friends garage for 3 weeks. That was 3 years ago! It had the T-bars removed to let the seals expand, and a sheet over it. The garage has no power, so again, I just disconnected the battery. left it in gear, handbrake off. I went over and started it a month ago for the first time since leaving it. Same drill as the Evo, but couldn't drive it this time, so left it to run to check for leaks, make sure the fan cut in, etc. Absolutely fine. My biggest concern is old fuel, I use VPower in everything, and I suspect it helps in these scenarios, although 10 years is a big ask.

Good luck, don't worry too much, as long as it's dry and can't freeze, it'll be fine. With all the things you plan to do, I can't see it causing you many problems. Might be worth spraying some grease onto the brake pipes, etc.

Edited by Heaveho on Wednesday 5th June 16:33

[Heaveho]

Just to add, I wouldn't hold out any hope for the tyres after that length of time, expect to replace them. They'll be way out of date, even if they look ok.

[texaxile]

Don't forget to add mousetraps and bait, unless you can install a cat that doesn't need feeding.

I stored my Lancer over the winter months in a modern type of barn construction a farm, the place was littered with mouse droppings and the buggers will eat the seat foam and anything else remotely edible if they get in, so I taped up the drain holes in the boot, all the door shuts and vents. They can do a shedload of damage to an interior, especially if they nest behind the dashboard (I saw this happen on an Interceptor kept nearby in the same building undergoing restoration).

I'd put down mousetraps weekly or bi weekly and each time they were occupied with dead mice. Fortunately I didn't get any issues, and now the car is at home where my rescue moggy watches over it .

Regarding the tyres, it may well be worth taking a hit on them and buying a new set if it's sat for more than a couple of years, leave the fluids in the car but just be prepared to replace the lot when it comes to recommissioning. I'm not sure if long term storage on Axle stands will do the suspension and bushes any favours at being extended for such a long time but I'm no expert on that.

I would, however, change the coolant, or at least check it beforehand. When I recomissioned my Lancer it had been sat for about 6 years and the coolant had turned to a jelly like substance inside the radiator and block. It had not emulsified, but it was soemthing to do with the type of coolant it used and it being stood idle for so long. Cue one strip down and gasket replacement, it's not happened since but it may have been something to do with the old type that was in there rather than anything else.

Remember also that fuel, if left over a long period of time goes stale and I've read somewhere that it can turn gummy and into a varnish type of substance. I've no idea how to stop this from happening apart from a full drain before storage and filter repalcement after, as well as a good flush through.

Sounds like you've covered most bases, but honestly, watch out for those bloody mice!

[Paracetamol]

My friend did exactly this to his e46 m3. 3 weeks went buy before he realized that it had been stolen! Make sure you check it and keep any valuable parts in a separate place

[healeyfan]

Mice, mice and er mice. Lots of them. Also squirrels and RATS!
If you are still intent on doing this then a Carcoon runs off a car battery.
Take it out of the 944 and use that to power the tent and keep it charged with a solar panel fixed to the garage roof. Also make sure the door is fully secure and don't allow weeds to grow in front and wash the garage door every 6 months. To be honest I'm not sure it's worth all the hassle.

[2Btoo]

Thanks for the answers - all very helpful indeed.

Tyres - yes, I am not expecting them to be usable when it comes out. It's a bit of a shame as they have a decent amount of tread on them but at more than 10 years old they probably won't be able to be used.

Coolant - thanks. I was planning to put a LOT of concentrate into the mix and run it for a bit so it all mixes in but it may be easier just to disconnect the bottom hose and let it drain.

Something on the brake and fuel pipes - yes, I've been over them with some anti-rust wax. Good spot though.

Mice. This is the bit that is currently worrying me. The garage is in an area with a lot of cats (there is a sofa in there at the moment and several cats sleep on the sofa). It's also not that close to houses so there aren't any foodstuffs around. These will help my chances but I am still concerned. Traps are a good idea but I won't be going to look at it that often. It sounds like putting the car on axle stands will help as it makes it harder for the mice to climb up into it, but this won't be foolproof either. Apparently mothballs and (weirdly) tumble dryer sheets are all a deterrent for mice so I will put a lot of those in and around the car. I don't want to stop up the drainage holes as they will allow the car to breathe so I may well loosely stuff them with wire wool. I'd like to leave a window ajar to allow things to breathe as well, but that may be too much of an invitation to mice so perhaps I won't.

Healyfan, a carcoon would be a lovely solution but it's a non-starter. The garage has no power, I don't think that a solar panel would produce enough power on a cloudy winter day to keep one running and I'm not sure there is enough space for one. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[healeyfan]

Tyres will be fine if you store them in the dark but the rules might change in 10 years time about using them. Mothballs, tumble dryer sheets etc don't work.
A cat is the only deterrent. Solar panel is just to keep the battery charged. Have 2 batteries and swop them over from time to time. At least that's what I do and has worked perfectly for the last 3 years.

[caley64]

I have used Permabag for the last 20 odd years on various cars and bikes with good results.
No need for power and will certainly stop mice getting in.

[Chris32345]

Change and flush the brake fluid for sure
And possibly out the car on axle stand if you can

[2Btoo]

caley64 said:

I have used Permabag for the last 20 odd years on various cars and bikes with good results.
No need for power and will certainly stop mice getting in.

Now that IS helpful. Very helpful indeed, thanks Steven.

Done some googling for 'Permabag'. It seems that many of the mentions of them are from a few years back and there are some less good reviews more recently, but I very much like the idea. It also seems that there is now only one supplier, in Germany, and one of a suitable size would be just over £600 ... which seems more than a little bit steep.

However there is a competitor product called Carbag, which is a US product and gets similarly good reviews. And it's MUCH cheaper. $249 seems to buy one, not sure about the shipping situation on that. However at that price then I could be very tempted. I'm just going to eMail them and also eMail a friend to see whether he could buy me one and have it shipped more cheaply ....

Thanks for the help. This is a really good idea.

[larrylamb11]

To your list you should add or consider:-

Drain and refill coolant with correct anti-freeze mix (coolant has a 'working life' as low as 2 years depending on the composition - it's sacrificial, using parts of the mix to prevent corrosion to the metal parts of the cooling system and engine, consequently coolant 'wears out' after a while. That's why it's a service item and changed (more so historically). If it goes beyond it's working life it doesn't just stop working allowing the metals to corrode, eventually it turns into a corrosive substance itself and can form a 'gel' making clean up and repair time consuming and expensive).

Evacuate and replace brake fluid (its hygroscopic) - consider re-filling with silicone fluid (which isn't hygroscopic).

Set the handbrake to 'off'.

Evacuate and replace clutch fluid, if hydraulic clutch (see above). (In response to your suggestion to wedge the pedal down, I wouldn't do that - freeing a stuck clutch isn't usually that difficult once you know how.)

Jack up and place on blocks / axle stands under body mounts (this saves your tyres from 'flat-spotting' and unloads suspension components. Some people will over inflate tyres in an effort to prevent corrosion at the bead and to keep their shape... I have my doubts. They have a max inflation pressure marked on the sides, use that)

Remove all brake pads and store off the car. Drench brake discs in corrosion inhibitor / WD40 / potion of choice (the single most frequent and likely occurence in cars stored is stuck brakes - pads rusting to discs. This is a headache as it makes cars really hard to move when you come to awaken them and they won't start - removing the pads removes that eventuality).

Write a big card or notice and leave in the car stating that no brake pads are fitted and not to press the brake pedal (after years it's easy to forget that you've taken the pads out!)

Brim the fuel tank and add a fuel stabiliser. (The fuel WILL go 'off' over time, even with stabiliser - you can tell from the acrid smell left once a lot of the volatiles have evaporated off, given long enough. The key here is actually to protect the fuel TANK. The inside of a tank (if steel) has no protection and will bloom with rust if not submerged by fuel as a result of condensation during storage. This corrosion can be a massive headache to unwind come recommissioning time. Cheaper and easier to treat the fuel as a consumable corrosion inhibitor. The less air left in the tank, the less space for the volatiles to evaporate into, the longer the fuel lasts and the lower the chance of condensation forming).

Either top off neat or drain washer fluid tank. (Washer fluid has an anti-bacterial / anti-algae function as well as being an anti-freeze. If water is left in a washer fluid tank insufficiently protected it can grow nasty slime that then blocks the washer jets and pipes come recommissioning time).

As you've already said, over-fill the engine with oil and add some oil down the bores to prevent the piston rings corroding onto the bores. In an ideal world regular rotation of the engine with re-applications of oil down the bores will minimise potential issues.

As you've also said, remove the battery - take it out and away all together. If just disconnected, the gases given off as it slowly discharges will promote corrosion in the areas around it.

Interior mould is pretty much an inevitability. Things that go really mouldy are steering wheels, gear knobs and seat belts. Obviously seats and door trims and to a lesser degree head-linings, will also suffer. Getting the car properly clean and hoovered before storage will help. The key to preventing is good ventilation and dry conditions. Leaving windows cracked open a touch will help.

Rodent / infestation prevention. Rats and mice love wiring and rubber, they eat it for fun whilst turning your sound deadening into bedding.... hard to mitigate against beyond removing any potential food sources and laying traps.

Gearbox needs nothing special - you can open a gearbox on a car that's been stood 80 years and it'll still be as good as new inside. Same with diffs / rear axles (although yours is a transaxle so no worries there).

Then, as you say, cover everything mechanical / underneath with anti-corrosion product of choice.... You also have to expect existing rust to turn into more rust, it generally doesn't stop just because you stop using the car and will continue to receive the moisture it needs to grow from the air.

[aeropilot]

larrylamb11 said:

Brim the fuel tank and add a fuel stabiliser. (The fuel WILL go 'off' over time, even with stabiliser - you can tell from the acrid smell left once a lot of the volatiles have evaporated off, given long enough. The key here is actually to protect the fuel TANK. The inside of a tank (if steel) has no protection and will bloom with rust if not submerged by fuel as a result of condensation during storage. This corrosion can be a massive headache to unwind come recommissioning time. Cheaper and easier to treat the fuel as a consumable corrosion inhibitor. The less air left in the tank, the less space for the volatiles to evaporate into, the longer the fuel lasts and the lower the chance of condensation forming).

^This.

If stored for as long as 10 years, that fuel will be just gunk, and the tank will have to be removed to clean the crap out of it.


I reckon its folly doing all this, as I reckon it will cost less in the long to to just use the bloody thing compared to the costs in 5 or 10 years time for recommissioning the bloody thing.

[caley64]

Good find on the Carbag, didn't realise that Permabag had got so expensive.

[DB4DM]

Mice! Last winter I killed 11 and 3 babies in 3 traps having not inspected them for a month. Gestation period for a litter of 3 to 6 is 21 days, and they are fertile at 21 days or thereabouts, the maths is terrible! If your 944 is mostly manmade, then they'll likely try the wiring and fuel hose for taste. I was lucky they didn't eat that but they enjoyed the leather, wilton carpet and hessian backing for the rear seats for nest building. It took 3 weeks to catch the last ones as for a while the carpet was tastier than the chocolate on the trap until they couldn't stand the temptation

There is also no guarantee that a little nipper will deliver a clean kill, meaning a trapped injured mouse can bloodily drag it all over the place before giving up. I had to use a wheel brace as a priest a couple of times as well

Sorry to be explicit, but I've learnt my lesson about self stored cars. If it really must be 10 years and you want to keep the car, then store it professionally in a pest controlled environment

Over the years too, I've stored my cars and my basic rule of thumb for recommissioning costs excluding betterment is £2000 per year stored

[Lily the Pink]

Is it a square dash or oval dash car ? Square has a metal fuel tank, oval has plastic.
If leaving on axle stands, make sure you use the correct points, not the ones under the A pillar :

When you replace the spark plugs, don't tighten them up, do put a drop of oil around them.