Job I Wish I'd Not Started.
Discussion
350i pressure gauge slow to read. No problem, identify the gauge ordered a new sender job done. Trouble is it's as slow if not slower than the old one.
The old one got toasted on removal in fact the connection disintegrated. Pressure is also reading lower than originally. At present 18-20 psi at 1000rpm and 40 ish at 2000 rpm. Oil light goes out on start, engine as done 82k with no noises of mechanical problems. I've been assured by the supplier, Rac***t that I have the correct sender for my gauge. Cause for concern or live with it? It would give me a warm feeling if I could some how fool the gauge to read higher? Thanks for any thoughts or reassurance. J C.

Thanks Mark, I seem to have read somewhere that the V8's thrive on oil flow rather than pressure? It's the slow response of the gauge that seemed suspect, although shorting the supply connection sees the gauge rapidly indicating full scale. Certainly the new sender has not improved matters. We'll see how it behaves once the drive shaft U/J's are replaced. Cheers Mark.
Hi John
This might help...I doubt there's anything wrong with your oil pressure!!...just drive the damn thing....
https://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/oil.html
This might help...I doubt there's anything wrong with your oil pressure!!...just drive the damn thing....

https://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/oil.html
The TVR sender and gauge is very very variable in its accuracy.
I'm changing one at the moment for a Honeywell calibrated sender. Bought a new oil pressure gauge from CAI because the old one had a lot of hysteresis in it.
The trick bit is that I'll be driving the gauge not from the sender directly but from a microcontroller via PWM, so I can calibrate the gauge in the software and have it bang on.
Individual calibration is the only way with the original kit as it just isn't accurate enough to be relied upon.
Ed.
I'm changing one at the moment for a Honeywell calibrated sender. Bought a new oil pressure gauge from CAI because the old one had a lot of hysteresis in it.
The trick bit is that I'll be driving the gauge not from the sender directly but from a microcontroller via PWM, so I can calibrate the gauge in the software and have it bang on.
Individual calibration is the only way with the original kit as it just isn't accurate enough to be relied upon.
Ed.
I had scrapped an SD1 and for a while ran with the gauge and sender off that too see what was going on.
The gauge was perched on top of the 350i centre console box.
Anyway after a few weeks I figured out the original gauge was just reading a bit low, swapped back to it, and carried on to put a total of 140k on that engine.
The gauge was perched on top of the 350i centre console box.
Anyway after a few weeks I figured out the original gauge was just reading a bit low, swapped back to it, and carried on to put a total of 140k on that engine.
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