Sump removal

[Club.Ed.TONKA]

The sump plug on Jeff's Mark 1 based geep has been chewed up and spat out by a previous owner's attempts at refitting it !

Plan A was simply to fit a new plug but the threads are badly damaged , plan B was to either fit another sump or drill/re-tap the hole to a slightly larger size which is where the head scratching begins.

Its not clear from the manuals I have if you can get the sump off without taking the engine out and removing the flywheel , I have removed the lower bolts around the dust plate on the back of the block but it looks to be in one piece preventing access to see if there are any retaining bolts near the flywheel , its a 1300 x-flow, any ideas?

Thanks in advance guys...

Mark

[jagojan]

Quoting from MK1 Haynes Manual.. Which Geep is based on..
Page 33
14 Sump removal

1 The removalof the sump is not cosidered to be a practicable proposition whilst the engine is in the car, because of the nessity to detach steering, suspension and chassis components.
If the engine has been removed from the car, after detaching it from the gearbox, the procedure is as follows.
2 Ensure that the starter motor is detached from the engine.
3 Unscrew the sump securing bolts and remove sump. Use a penknife to cut around the joint if stuck.
4 Remove the cork strips from the timing cover and rear oil seal carrier, then thorouly clean the mating surfaces of the sump flange and engine crankcase..

assuming the cross member is in the same position as on Escort MK1

sorry not very good news

[drseg]

dont look good but MAY be more room to lift engine and gearbox whilst in the car on a geep would probably have to remove hoses and watch fan and rad not hitting and maybe remove loosen exhaust beyond maynes manual its suck it and see i'm afraid!
good luck!

[techsec]

If the sump plug and the threads in the sump have been ruined by far the easiest way to sort it is to either just weld a suitable nut on to original sump drain hole or cut off the original and weld a replacement in then using the appropriate bolt and copper washer you have yourself a new drain plug.
Have used this method in the past on various motors I have had the pleasure to work on when unknown folks have messed up.

[Club.Ed.TONKA]

I fancied doing that but without taking sump off I am worried about setting light to something ....

[techsec]

It does work best if you can take the sump off.
That way you can make a tidy job of it.

[jon4648]

I think it is possible.

Note Haynes says not practical because of the location of the cross member and rack. On the Escort the engine mounts are welded to the cross member and there is very little clearance. On the jeep the cross member is further forward and further away from the engine.

Remember the extended steering shaft.

At the worst I think you may need to undo the engine mounts and raise it another inch or two - if you haven't got a hoist lift with a jack and secure it to the cross brace. You may want to loosen the gearbox mounting by just a couple of turns.

Hope this helps,

BTW Tonka I've mailed Colwyn Bay

jon

[Club.Ed.TONKA]

The problem is trying to get at the rear sump bolts which appear to be behind the engine plate , having removed most of the bolts around the bellhousing it still wont drop down..... didnt fancy having to take flywheel off etc.

[jon4648]

I am looking in the Haynes manual - they even show which suspension components to dismantle to remove sump in situ.

It says remove the starter motor - then you should be able to remove the angle bracket between dust plate and sump. Now look up and you should be able to see the last 2 sump bolts in the space between dust plate and sump near the crankshaft.

jon