Syncro or clutch ?
Discussion
Hi can anyone shed some light?
Im finding it a bit difficult to change from 1st to 2nd as I'm getting some resistance from the gearbox and I have to either wait til it wants to go in or use a bit more force causing a clunky change . Its only happening going into 2nd from 1st all other gears are nice and smooth its been to the dealers and they have said its the clutch but im not so sure as i think its the synchro baulk ring the clutch seems fine no slippage or noises etc surly if it was the clutch more gears would be affected
Any ideas
Cheers
Im finding it a bit difficult to change from 1st to 2nd as I'm getting some resistance from the gearbox and I have to either wait til it wants to go in or use a bit more force causing a clunky change . Its only happening going into 2nd from 1st all other gears are nice and smooth its been to the dealers and they have said its the clutch but im not so sure as i think its the synchro baulk ring the clutch seems fine no slippage or noises etc surly if it was the clutch more gears would be affected
Any ideas
Cheers
Just done a test and it feels no different really pausing before changing but when stationery engine running clutch dipped it's smooth but when moving its notchy i changed up from first to second then back to neutral and back into 2nd a few times while coasting with the clutch dipped and its was really notchy
1st - 2nd gear change is always the hardest mechanically in a gearbox due to having the biggest ratio step between 1st and 2nd gears. This requires the strongest synchroniser in the gearbox on 2nd gear, and it is the most sensitive in operation to any clutch drag issue.
If the synchroniser is significantly damaged then there will be lots of metallic debris in the oil; modern gearboxes are typically 'sealed for life' but it is possible to change the oil with the right tools and inspection of the oil will tell you something about the state of the synchros (expect lots of gold coloured brass particles from the synchro friction surface, and magnetic iron shavings if the synchro teeth are buggered).
If the synchroniser is significantly damaged then there will be lots of metallic debris in the oil; modern gearboxes are typically 'sealed for life' but it is possible to change the oil with the right tools and inspection of the oil will tell you something about the state of the synchros (expect lots of gold coloured brass particles from the synchro friction surface, and magnetic iron shavings if the synchro teeth are buggered).
About the only test I can suggest to indicate if the issue is clutch or 2nd gear synchro is to consider what the selection from neutral to 1st gear is like when the car is stationary. If it is difficult/slow to get get 1st gear engaged after pushing the clutch pedal down then this could indicate drag from a non fully opening clutch (which could be worn release bearing, worn diaphragm spring, air in hydraulics or carpet stopping pedal from going all the way down).
Slight incline engine off in 1st gear dip clutch = car rolls away
Car stationery engine running dip clutch into 1st =seems fine
I'm stumped
Theres no carpet in the way
I did have a play tho from the clutch pressed fully to the stop if i lift about an inch it stops it going in gear then a bit after i find the biting point theres loads of travel from after engagement and completely off the pedal
Car stationery engine running dip clutch into 1st =seems fine
I'm stumped
Theres no carpet in the way
I did have a play tho from the clutch pressed fully to the stop if i lift about an inch it stops it going in gear then a bit after i find the biting point theres loads of travel from after engagement and completely off the pedal
Edited by Chadders88 on Monday 17th June 19:25
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