Discussion
I need some help in setting up the steering on a toy car that I have made for my son. It was initially planned as a birthday present for his 4th birthday but I missed the deadline by a week.
At the moment I’m finding that the steering works ok when the car is off the ground, however once on the ground the steering will only work for a few turns then nothing.
The setup is as follows:
Nintendo Wii controller connected to an 8mm threaded rod.
Threaded rod then connects to a small piece of metal.
Metal has 2 holes, one for threaded rod from steering wheel the other for the rose joints.
Rose joints connect to this bit of metal then go to the tyres via 8mm threaded rod.
I’m also having issues with the actual steering wheel, that’s a whole other ball ache that I need to try to figure out, it just becomes loose after a few turns.
Please help me figure out where I have gone wrong.
I don't have any pictures that show the entire steering column, hopefully this give some idea:
This is what the actual car looks like, it’s powered by an 18v drill driving the rear tyre, my son loves it but can only go in a straight line.
At the moment I’m finding that the steering works ok when the car is off the ground, however once on the ground the steering will only work for a few turns then nothing.
The setup is as follows:
Nintendo Wii controller connected to an 8mm threaded rod.
Threaded rod then connects to a small piece of metal.
Metal has 2 holes, one for threaded rod from steering wheel the other for the rose joints.
Rose joints connect to this bit of metal then go to the tyres via 8mm threaded rod.
I’m also having issues with the actual steering wheel, that’s a whole other ball ache that I need to try to figure out, it just becomes loose after a few turns.
Please help me figure out where I have gone wrong.
I don't have any pictures that show the entire steering column, hopefully this give some idea:
This is what the actual car looks like, it’s powered by an 18v drill driving the rear tyre, my son loves it but can only go in a straight line.
Edited by RZ1 on Thursday 27th June 21:47
Edited by RZ1 on Thursday 27th June 21:48
Would it help if you moved the attachment point of the threaded rods to the wheel lever back?
The attachment point on wheel levers has fore/aft adjustment and if this was wound back then the rods running left and right from the steering column would run closer to perpendicular to the steering column and this may help avoid any binding. The cutouts in the bodywork may not be big enough, can you try it without the body?
Great build
The attachment point on wheel levers has fore/aft adjustment and if this was wound back then the rods running left and right from the steering column would run closer to perpendicular to the steering column and this may help avoid any binding. The cutouts in the bodywork may not be big enough, can you try it without the body?
Great build
To my untrained eye, the distance between steering arm and swivel point is going to be putting a lot of strain on the connection with the steering column:
On a car, the steering knuckle would be turning around the balljoint and not trying to drag the wheel in an arc some distance away from the swivel point.
On a car, the steering knuckle would be turning around the balljoint and not trying to drag the wheel in an arc some distance away from the swivel point.
I think you have a combination of issues.
I agree with the above, and would go further & say if you can weld, put that point on the end of the stub axle at 90 degrees adjusting the steering rods to suit, I also think if you can shorten the stub axle it will help, and if you lengthen the angled rod at the end of the steering column & put a proper solid bearing support rather than a piece of wood.
Good effort though, get it working & you will be #1 Dad for some time.
I agree with the above, and would go further & say if you can weld, put that point on the end of the stub axle at 90 degrees adjusting the steering rods to suit, I also think if you can shorten the stub axle it will help, and if you lengthen the angled rod at the end of the steering column & put a proper solid bearing support rather than a piece of wood.
Good effort though, get it working & you will be #1 Dad for some time.
Looking good!!
Couple of things I would look into...
As Jagnet pointed out, you have a rather odd setup between the swivel point of the hub and where the steering rack connects?
It also looks as though if you were to tighten up the nuts and washers on the shaft pointing to the top of the screen in his picture the washers will clamp against the large outer bit of metal, not against the inner ball, stopping it from swivelling.
On the same picture, could you also check your clearance from the steering rack to the body of the car? looks like the rack might connect with the car.
The Swing Bin thread has some pics of his steering setup!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Note to self, do not bin my now battery dead 18 and 12 volt battery drills, daughter is car mad already...
Couple of things I would look into...
As Jagnet pointed out, you have a rather odd setup between the swivel point of the hub and where the steering rack connects?
It also looks as though if you were to tighten up the nuts and washers on the shaft pointing to the top of the screen in his picture the washers will clamp against the large outer bit of metal, not against the inner ball, stopping it from swivelling.
On the same picture, could you also check your clearance from the steering rack to the body of the car? looks like the rack might connect with the car.
The Swing Bin thread has some pics of his steering setup!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Note to self, do not bin my now battery dead 18 and 12 volt battery drills, daughter is car mad already...
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