E90 320i changing trans fluids
Discussion
Manual or auto?
If it's manual, I wouldn't really bother but if you must, a synthetic 75/80 gear oil. You'll need about 1.5 litres.
Automatics are a lot more involved and expensive - you're looking at 3-400 quid for the ZF sump/filter kit, oil etc and it's not five minutes to do. I'd just drain and refill, or check the level and keep it topped up. Any leaks from the sump edges mean it needs doing. Tbh, if it's bone dry and it works OK, I'd leave it alone bar a quick oil drain and refill.
The diff is the important bit as they are known for bearing failure. If it's still quiet, I'd syphon the old oil out (there is no drain plug) with an oil pump, and refill with fully synthetic EP75/140. That's a bit thicker than standard but works very well. The standard oil (75/80) was a bit thin, great for emissions, not good for bearing life.
If it's manual, I wouldn't really bother but if you must, a synthetic 75/80 gear oil. You'll need about 1.5 litres.
Automatics are a lot more involved and expensive - you're looking at 3-400 quid for the ZF sump/filter kit, oil etc and it's not five minutes to do. I'd just drain and refill, or check the level and keep it topped up. Any leaks from the sump edges mean it needs doing. Tbh, if it's bone dry and it works OK, I'd leave it alone bar a quick oil drain and refill.
The diff is the important bit as they are known for bearing failure. If it's still quiet, I'd syphon the old oil out (there is no drain plug) with an oil pump, and refill with fully synthetic EP75/140. That's a bit thicker than standard but works very well. The standard oil (75/80) was a bit thin, great for emissions, not good for bearing life.
Trev450 said:
Recently acquired a high mileage (120K) 320i and would like to know what the opinions are on changing the gearbox and diff oil. Is it recommended and if so, what type of oil is best please.
I’d change the timing chain tensioner as this will help the chain last longer. Cost £30, time-10 mins helix402 said:
Trev450 said:
Recently acquired a high mileage (120K) 320i and would like to know what the opinions are on changing the gearbox and diff oil. Is it recommended and if so, what type of oil is best please.
I’d change the timing chain tensioner as this will help the chain last longer. Cost £30, time-10 mins I probably keep repeating myself so apologies for that - I have found LM Ceratec to be amazing for both the gearbox and the diff (i.e. not only as a purely rather amazing engine oil additive). I have a high mileage, 260k miles, E39 with what used to be very notchy and loud gearbox - after having added it (6% of the filling capacity) it has transformed it so I then added it to the diff for extra protection. Gear changes smoother then ever, even in sub zero temperatures and the noisy input shaft bearing has since gone silent. This thing all started with me adding it into the engine oil and been really impressed. So I thought, hmmm how about the g'box/diff...it's been 100k now since I have started using it an all is good.
That 140 weight for the rear diff sounds a lot - unless svery noisy or car is tracked/used for towing I would probably try and stick with something thinner hypoid oil rated 75W-90 or thereabouts.
That 140 weight for the rear diff sounds a lot - unless svery noisy or car is tracked/used for towing I would probably try and stick with something thinner hypoid oil rated 75W-90 or thereabouts.
BMW claim the gearbox and differential oils are in there for life, but my local specialist (who is ex-Sytner) thinks replacing the gearbox oil is worth doing at higher mileages. (Differential isn't so easy, as they don't have a drain plug on newer models).
I had the gearbox oil changed in my E46 at 102K miles, and on my Z4 at 82K miles and both had a slightly smoother change afterwards.
The way I looked at it was it didn't cost that much and it couldn't do any harm!
If you expect to keep the car a while why not have it changed?
I had the gearbox oil changed in my E46 at 102K miles, and on my Z4 at 82K miles and both had a slightly smoother change afterwards.
The way I looked at it was it didn't cost that much and it couldn't do any harm!
If you expect to keep the car a while why not have it changed?
At the same time, it will be worth checking or changing any giubo coupling that is fitted. They can deteriorate at that sort of mileage.
Second picture is very typical on a rear drive shaft.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo
Second picture is very typical on a rear drive shaft.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo
Pica-Pica said:
At the same time, it will be worth checking or changing any giubo coupling that is fitted. They can deteriorate at that sort of mileage.
Second picture is very typical on a rear drive shaft.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo
Especially if you have a leak at the gearbox output shaft seal - the sprayed oil eventually dissolves the rubber boot of the driveshaft bearing and the giubo rubber. Ask me how I know...Second picture is very typical on a rear drive shaft.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giubo
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