Decent cordless impact wrench that doesn’t break the bank
Discussion
As above. Looking to change a clutch soon, and removing the subframe and gearbox will go a lot smoother with the use of a powerful cordless impact.
If money were no object, I’d buy a DeWalt or Milwaukee 1/2”, but as a DIY’er it won’t get a huge amount of use and the extra cash would seem to be a waste. Can anyone suggest a powerful impact wrench that will deal with most stubborn bolts, and that isn’t stupidly expensive?
If money were no object, I’d buy a DeWalt or Milwaukee 1/2”, but as a DIY’er it won’t get a huge amount of use and the extra cash would seem to be a waste. Can anyone suggest a powerful impact wrench that will deal with most stubborn bolts, and that isn’t stupidly expensive?
How much are you looking to spend? This £140 Draper Strom Force came 3rd in a recent-ish Auto Express group test. I've been eyeing it up myself.
This was reviewed in the Car Mechanics magazine a month or two ago, and it seemed to hold it's own against the more expensive ones on test. So it's going on my shopping list.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18...
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18...
PhillipM said:
The little Makita's are great for getting into stubborn area's and have enough power for hub nuts, etc, too. We've got a few of them, best power tools I ever bought.
^ This. I bought a cordless Makita , mod to high range, earlier this year. Not sure how I ever did without it when it comes to rusted suspension bolts and the like. Compact and powerful, it can be used in tight locations and will shift most bolts I've tried it on.sgtBerbatov said:
This was reviewed in the Car Mechanics magazine a month or two ago, and it seemed to hold it's own against the more expensive ones on test. So it's going on my shopping list.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18...
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll add it to my list as it’s right in my price range.https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18...
Piersman2 said:
PhillipM said:
The little Makita's are great for getting into stubborn area's and have enough power for hub nuts, etc, too. We've got a few of them, best power tools I ever bought.
^ This. I bought a cordless Makita , mod to high range, earlier this year. Not sure how I ever did without it when it comes to rusted suspension bolts and the like. Compact and powerful, it can be used in tight locations and will shift most bolts I've tried it on.HazzaCrawf said:
sgtBerbatov said:
This was reviewed in the Car Mechanics magazine a month or two ago, and it seemed to hold it's own against the more expensive ones on test. So it's going on my shopping list.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18...
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll add it to my list as it’s right in my price range.https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18...
Piersman2 said:
PhillipM said:
The little Makita's are great for getting into stubborn area's and have enough power for hub nuts, etc, too. We've got a few of them, best power tools I ever bought.
^ This. I bought a cordless Makita , mod to high range, earlier this year. Not sure how I ever did without it when it comes to rusted suspension bolts and the like. Compact and powerful, it can be used in tight locations and will shift most bolts I've tried it on.Giving serious consideration to one myself, but if I do it, it will be followed by drills, etc as well, so sticking to one brand will be helpful.
Megaflow said:
Piersman2 said:
PhillipM said:
The little Makita's are great for getting into stubborn area's and have enough power for hub nuts, etc, too. We've got a few of them, best power tools I ever bought.
^ This. I bought a cordless Makita , mod to high range, earlier this year. Not sure how I ever did without it when it comes to rusted suspension bolts and the like. Compact and powerful, it can be used in tight locations and will shift most bolts I've tried it on.Giving serious consideration to one myself, but if I do it, it will be followed by drills, etc as well, so sticking to one brand will be helpful.
Would add that for subframe bolts, my smaller wrench (340nm) isn't well suited compared to the 700nm wrench.
Many of the cheaper 1/2"/18v wrenches are no more powerful than the more expensive 12v wrenches.
Also, the Draper impact wrench recomended above looks like a completely generic Chinese wrench that is sold under various brands including 'Vonhous'(?) at Amazon where it would almost certainly be cheaper. Can't imagine it's much good though and wouldn't fancy it on subframe bolts.
Many of the cheaper 1/2"/18v wrenches are no more powerful than the more expensive 12v wrenches.
Also, the Draper impact wrench recomended above looks like a completely generic Chinese wrench that is sold under various brands including 'Vonhous'(?) at Amazon where it would almost certainly be cheaper. Can't imagine it's much good though and wouldn't fancy it on subframe bolts.
Piersman2 said:
Megaflow said:
HazzaCrawf said:
I’m guessing it will either be the DTW450Z or the DTW285Z, from my research

bluezedd said:
bluezedd said:
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll add it to my list as it’s right in my price range.
I have a mains clarke 1/2" impact with the same 450nm rating. What I'll say is that it does me for most things, but it won't do everything. I've had to use a breaker bar on wheel nuts in the past. These have been cars where I've had no history of working on them though, so likely haven't been tightened with a torque wrench.It just might be a bit disappointing if your car is one of those cars, and you have no other way to get the wheel nuts started. It might also not be a good solution to nuts and bolts that your breaker bar can't handle (assuming that's what you're looking for).
I'd definitely buy my clarke impact again if it was lost, but I wouldn't say I could rely on it for everything.
If it can't get a wheel nut off (that I have tightened to just less than 100nm) then what is the point. I now reach for the 18" breaker bar and job done.
A powerful, cordless gun would be ideal but I doubt if I will bother, I have no doubt the battery would be flat every time I reached for it

Andy 308GTB said:
bluezedd said:
bluezedd said:
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll add it to my list as it’s right in my price range.
I have a mains clarke 1/2" impact with the same 450nm rating. What I'll say is that it does me for most things, but it won't do everything. I've had to use a breaker bar on wheel nuts in the past. These have been cars where I've had no history of working on them though, so likely haven't been tightened with a torque wrench.It just might be a bit disappointing if your car is one of those cars, and you have no other way to get the wheel nuts started. It might also not be a good solution to nuts and bolts that your breaker bar can't handle (assuming that's what you're looking for).
I'd definitely buy my clarke impact again if it was lost, but I wouldn't say I could rely on it for everything.
If it can't get a wheel nut off (that I have tightened to just less than 100nm) then what is the point. I now reach for the 18" breaker bar and job done.
A powerful, cordless gun would be ideal but I doubt if I will bother, I have no doubt the battery would be flat every time I reached for it

Despite being a DIY’er, I’d like a gun that can tackle everything I throw at it, works when I pick it up, and that will be reliable for a long time. For that it’s worth the extra imo.
Milwaukee M12 Fuel. I bought one, then added more products from the range using the same battery packs. They are great. The Ryobi brand is made by the same manufacturer and is a bit cheaper. The M12 will manage most jobs on a car. The M18 is a professional unit for more money.
https://www.google.com/search?q=milwaukee+m12+impa...
https://www.google.com/search?q=milwaukee+m12+impa...
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