Airbox oil breather cup
Airbox oil breather cup
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Discussion

ianwayne

Original Poster:

7,103 posts

285 months

Thursday 18th July 2019
quotequote all
Mine has been previously bodged up with glass fibre resin by the look of it and oil is now oozing through it and dripping on the F1 panel:



I've read threads on here about using a catch tank instead, but I'd like to keep it standard if possible. Is the one at TVR Parts up to the job?

https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-b...


TwinKam

3,351 posts

112 months

Thursday 18th July 2019
quotequote all
This won't leak, although your wallet might shed a little tear.
You could anodise it or paint it black if you want it to look original.

http://radtec.co.uk/products/352/Air-Filter-Oil-Br...

The Nige

175 posts

206 months

Thursday 18th July 2019
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ACT do a carbon fibre one



If i remember it's based on the 4.5 but will fit, make sure you use properly oil resistant sealer,

Cheers

Nigel

ianwayne

Original Poster:

7,103 posts

285 months

Friday 19th July 2019
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies, the carbon one looks well made. But, I'd ordered and paid for the TVR Parts one about 2 hours before your post. frown I should have checked ACT myself, they do quite a few TVR bespoke items.

I've only saved £20 after VAT and P+P, and I have to shape the base and drill holes in it to mount it. Oh, and paint it I suppose.

Update: TVR Parts have told me the item is no longer available, despite accepting payment for it. rolleyes They did the same thing with an AP Clutch.....

Some items show as 'no longer available,' fair enough, but others you only find out after paying for a new one, and destroying the old one getting it off.

So I've ordered the ACT carbon one now instead. £53 by the time delivery and VAT is added, and you won't even be able to see it! It's constant a bit here, bit there isn't it? But I should be used to it now on my 4th TVR...….

Edited by ianwayne on Friday 19th July 12:32

Mr Cerbera

5,144 posts

247 months

Saturday 20th July 2019
quotequote all
ianwayne said:
Thanks for the replies, the carbon one looks well made. But, I'd ordered and paid for the TVR Parts one about 2 hours before your post. frown I should have checked ACT myself, they do quite a few TVR bespoke items.

I've only saved £20 after VAT and P+P, and I have to shape the base and drill holes in it to mount it. Oh, and paint it I suppose.

Update: TVR Parts have told me the item is no longer available, despite accepting payment for it. rolleyes They did the same thing with an AP Clutch.....

Some items show as 'no longer available,' fair enough, but others you only find out after paying for a new one, and destroying the old one getting it off.

So I've ordered the ACT carbon one now instead. £53 by the time delivery and VAT is added, and you won't even be able to see it! It's constant a bit here, bit there isn't it? But I should be used to it now on my 4th TVR...….

Edited by ianwayne on Friday 19th July 12:32
There's only one thing to do Ian.....

Buy both Inlet Boxes in Carbon Fibre.
Then everyone will know that the breather is Carbon as well.

Alternatively, a thought I had, was to fix a laporoscope in such a position that the lens is trained on the breather pipe then run the feed back to an iPad on the rear parcel shelf so that anyone following will be able to see what that wonderful engine is, in fact, breathing through thumbup
(Sorry, the morphine will wear off soon, I am told - by a Walrus)

ianwayne

Original Poster:

7,103 posts

285 months

Saturday 20th July 2019
quotequote all
biggrin I considered it, but £780 plus delivery for the airboxes, WITHOUT the back plates seems a bit extravagant …. Mine is the 4.5 so it should fit fine in place of the original. You can go mad in their carbon fibre factory:

https://www.actproducts.co.uk/product-category/car...

My airboxes have already been modified to have larger exit pipes for the Whirlwind kit hoses.

Edited by ianwayne on Wednesday 31st July 09:48

ianwayne

Original Poster:

7,103 posts

285 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
Update:

Received the new oil breather today:

Is it worth salvaging the coiled wire mesh from the old breather and transferring it to the new one? It doesn't really seem to have a purpose to me or am I missing something?




Edited by ianwayne on Wednesday 31st July 10:02

TwinKam

3,351 posts

112 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
Theory: Oil vapour condenses on the wires, and drips back off, running down the bottom pipe into the engine.
Practice: All the while the flow of oily air is upwards, the oil can't 'row upstream'... hence the need for a poor fit to the air box, allowing for the oil to simply drip out over the coolant pipes laugh

ianwayne

Original Poster:

7,103 posts

285 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
I had expected the larger pipe to be almost flush with the base to allow complete oil residue flow back to the front cover when the engine is off. But there will still be about a 10mm deep pool in the bottom of the breather trap (its the other way up to the photo when fitted of course). I'm assured the carbon fibre is tough and I won't end up with a breather trap that splits and leaks oil.

This is the stuff I'm referring to:


ukkid35

6,361 posts

190 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
I wonder whether it would be possible to use plastic fixings to secure the breather to the airbox

I really hate the idea that there are metal nuts in there, even if they are nyloc

TwinKam

3,351 posts

112 months

Wednesday 31st July 2019
quotequote all
ianwayne said:
I had expected the larger pipe to be almost flush with the base to allow complete oil residue flow back to the front cover when the engine is off. But there will still be about a 10mm deep pool in the bottom of the breather trap (its the other way up to the photo when fitted of course). I'm assured the carbon fibre is tough and I won't end up with a breather trap that splits and leaks oil.

This is the stuff I'm referring to:

Various manufacturers have used various material over the years... punched or louvred steel plates, coiled metal 'bottle brush' affairs, scrunched up coarse wire wool (which just goes rusty), open-cell cellulose sponge, scrunched up plastic threads (think pan scourer) ... a stainless steel pan scourer would be my choice.

ianwayne

Original Poster:

7,103 posts

285 months

Friday 2nd August 2019
quotequote all
The stainless scourers was a good suggestion. I got 2 of these in there:



Rather than try to line the old holes up, I filled them in with epoxy resin and mounted the carbon one with new holes. I was happy to use the original screws and nylocs: