Retro fitting electric fan
Discussion
My Mercedes 190 2.0 has a viscous fan but it is not working properly, and it seems no one supplies the viscous coupling anymore (although I have yet to try Mercedes themselves)
I am begrudgingly looking into electric fans that can be controlled by a switch in the cabin. Kenlowe used to do them, but don’t supply them anymore. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I am begrudgingly looking into electric fans that can be controlled by a switch in the cabin. Kenlowe used to do them, but don’t supply them anymore. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Mercedes may well be able to supply the part.
If you do go down the electric fan route then a simple temperature switch is easy to fit and I think better than a manual switch.
I fitted an electric fan to a ford engined kit car and used a temperature switch to activate it. After his previous overheating experiences the owner didn’t trust the temp switch so had a manual switch fitted as well. I understand that he never had to use the manual switch as the fan came on and off as required.
If you do go down the electric fan route then a simple temperature switch is easy to fit and I think better than a manual switch.
I fitted an electric fan to a ford engined kit car and used a temperature switch to activate it. After his previous overheating experiences the owner didn’t trust the temp switch so had a manual switch fitted as well. I understand that he never had to use the manual switch as the fan came on and off as required.
Have a look at car builder solutions - Their catalogue has a selection of fans and thermo switches.
Alternatively try boltonbits 01274688388 I bought a complete kit for my P38 over 2 years ago. Easy to fit, very cheap and still reliable. Car is much quieter and any power gain is welcome in a 2.5 diesel Rangie!
Alternatively try boltonbits 01274688388 I bought a complete kit for my P38 over 2 years ago. Easy to fit, very cheap and still reliable. Car is much quieter and any power gain is welcome in a 2.5 diesel Rangie!
sparks_190e said:
PositronicRay said:
Part number?
I’m trying to find that out. I’ve fired an email across to my local main dealers parts department.FWIW keeping it standard will almost always provide a more satisfactory result.
PositronicRay said:
sparks_190e said:
PositronicRay said:
Part number?
I’m trying to find that out. I’ve fired an email across to my local main dealers parts department.FWIW keeping it standard will almost always provide a more satisfactory result.
sparks_190e said:
PositronicRay said:
sparks_190e said:
PositronicRay said:
Part number?
I’m trying to find that out. I’ve fired an email across to my local main dealers parts department.FWIW keeping it standard will almost always provide a more satisfactory result.
My experience of these merc systems is that when in good order, they do a decent job.
My car wasn't brilliant but after a new fan clutch and water pump, the temp has been very well controlled. Even in 40c continental heat, traffic jams & a/c on full blast.
Let's face it, these cars were designed to cope as in all sorts of climates, a favorite taxi in Africa.
Eta
Have you tried the SL shop? I'd phone them, good for classic mb parts, and a way more comprehensive stock than the Web site would have you think.
Edited by PositronicRay on Wednesday 24th July 16:11
I have a 2rd fan in my Mercedes Ml55. Easy to do. Buy these on Ebay.
Davies Craig Digital Thermatic ~EWP / Radiator Switch.
12" push / pull electric fan.
This is a dual relay setup that has a probe in the rad, and AC feed. You then dial in a temp that you want it to switch on too. Wire up the fan, cable tie it to the rad on the side facing the bumper, make sure you configure it to `push` configuration. You can have 2 fans connected, or a fan that has 2 speeds as the unit has two relays i.e. first one goes on, 5 seconds later the second one.
ive had the OEM fan setup, plus this backup setup on my Ml55 for 4 years. Saved me 3 times, i.e. twice the OEM module didnt switch on and would of cooked the engine. a third time the 100amp fuse at the battery some how blew / lost contact / fell out.
You need to remember that the rad temps are 4/5' lower than the thermostat area, so using a thermal gun, or just noting the temp on the probe when the OEM system kicks in should help you set a temp that means the 2rd system comes on at the sametime as the OEM one. Also, remember that your car cooling temps / OEM fan operation, if controlled by CAN, will have different settings for when the AC is on or off.
Davies unit is good, however if left in a vunerable area only last 1 or 2 years before they give up. Ive brought 2 now as I will not run my ML wilthout a second system.
Hope this helps.
SBK
Davies Craig Digital Thermatic ~EWP / Radiator Switch.
12" push / pull electric fan.
This is a dual relay setup that has a probe in the rad, and AC feed. You then dial in a temp that you want it to switch on too. Wire up the fan, cable tie it to the rad on the side facing the bumper, make sure you configure it to `push` configuration. You can have 2 fans connected, or a fan that has 2 speeds as the unit has two relays i.e. first one goes on, 5 seconds later the second one.
ive had the OEM fan setup, plus this backup setup on my Ml55 for 4 years. Saved me 3 times, i.e. twice the OEM module didnt switch on and would of cooked the engine. a third time the 100amp fuse at the battery some how blew / lost contact / fell out.
You need to remember that the rad temps are 4/5' lower than the thermostat area, so using a thermal gun, or just noting the temp on the probe when the OEM system kicks in should help you set a temp that means the 2rd system comes on at the sametime as the OEM one. Also, remember that your car cooling temps / OEM fan operation, if controlled by CAN, will have different settings for when the AC is on or off.
Davies unit is good, however if left in a vunerable area only last 1 or 2 years before they give up. Ive brought 2 now as I will not run my ML wilthout a second system.
Hope this helps.
SBK
RayTay said:
Electric fans turn at full speed even in when stopped, or crawling, in traffic jams, unlike fixed and viscous fans. They are better all around.
It's not about fan speed, it's about volume of air shifted though the rad. Properly designed, fitted correctly, suitable wiring with a cowl then fine. A cheap fan zip tied to the rad is a bit more hit and miss.
The last time I did this I used a second hand pusher volvo fan, (peanuts from ebay) a suitable surround, snuggly fitted in front of the rad, heavy duty wiring, relay and controller, it shifted a lot of air. A bit inelegant but did the job. However my energy and money would've been better spent on getting the standard cooling system in good order. Lesson learned.
The factory merc arrangement is more than adequate, if the parts are available it's a cheaper, easier, less complicated, fix.
Edited by PositronicRay on Saturday 27th July 10:26
If you do decide to fir an electric fan, make sure you check and double check the direction of air flow from it!
I had an Elan +2 many years ago with a retro-fitted fan which caused an overheating problem after standing in traffic; it was fine at a standstill, but once the car started to move, it rapidly overheated because the fan was actually opposing the incoming airflow from outside.
I had an Elan +2 many years ago with a retro-fitted fan which caused an overheating problem after standing in traffic; it was fine at a standstill, but once the car started to move, it rapidly overheated because the fan was actually opposing the incoming airflow from outside.
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