Radiator leak (I believe) - any help ?
Discussion
I’m losing water from the Griff 4.3 – about a litre every 60 miles or so. I’ve checked and discounted swirl tank cap, hoses and hose connections and, as it appears to be sitting as a puddle on the body work that runs under the radiator, I’ve decided it can only be coming from the radiator as there is nothing else that far forward in the engine bay.
It does not lose water when standing in the garage, only when it’s out and water is being circulated. So I’m thinking it must be a small hole in the rad, which I am unable to see or locate.
In the olden days I probably would have just put some rad seal in there but I’m concerned about using this in case it clogs up the system. Any experience advice in that regard much appreciated. I’m also wondering whether I can fit up a hose to the connections and run water through the rad in isolation in order to (a) find the leak and (b) maybe introduce rad seal or similar to the radiator only (and not the engine end of the system).
Obviously a bit reluctant to remove the rad unless I really have to. Any comments, guidance, experiences of the same very much appreciated.
Thanks.
It does not lose water when standing in the garage, only when it’s out and water is being circulated. So I’m thinking it must be a small hole in the rad, which I am unable to see or locate.
In the olden days I probably would have just put some rad seal in there but I’m concerned about using this in case it clogs up the system. Any experience advice in that regard much appreciated. I’m also wondering whether I can fit up a hose to the connections and run water through the rad in isolation in order to (a) find the leak and (b) maybe introduce rad seal or similar to the radiator only (and not the engine end of the system).
Obviously a bit reluctant to remove the rad unless I really have to. Any comments, guidance, experiences of the same very much appreciated.
Thanks.
I have just had my rad out and re-cored due to over heating issues.
Its actaully not that bad a job to do, and the recore was £120 all in, gave me the oportunity to replace all the jubilee clips with S/S one and I sanded down and resprayed the metal pipes...
Anyway, back the the reason for the reply, I had signs of corrosion on the rad fins directly below the expansion tank, and on closer inspection of the tank it had a small corrosion hole at the bottom in the neck of the tube that the rubber pipe fits onto. Could be a similar problem for you as this would only show up under pressure
Its actaully not that bad a job to do, and the recore was £120 all in, gave me the oportunity to replace all the jubilee clips with S/S one and I sanded down and resprayed the metal pipes...
Anyway, back the the reason for the reply, I had signs of corrosion on the rad fins directly below the expansion tank, and on closer inspection of the tank it had a small corrosion hole at the bottom in the neck of the tube that the rubber pipe fits onto. Could be a similar problem for you as this would only show up under pressure
This might help..... I have not used it myself but the principle of it sounds good.
The advanatage is that you can have a good poke around and not get burnt as you dont need the engine running whilst locating the leak.
www.tvrbooks.co.uk/
can't link to exact page... but its in the tvrextras section
I have heard that taking out and refixing the rad is bit like working out how the tagra panel fits in the boot...
but it is possible.
>> Edited by Hoover33 on Monday 30th May 09:23
The advanatage is that you can have a good poke around and not get burnt as you dont need the engine running whilst locating the leak.
www.tvrbooks.co.uk/
can't link to exact page... but its in the tvrextras section
I have heard that taking out and refixing the rad is bit like working out how the tagra panel fits in the boot...
but it is possible. >> Edited by Hoover33 on Monday 30th May 09:23
The pressure tester from Steve is very good ... worked for me.
My experience with TVR rad's is that when they go ... they really go !!
I would double check all the jubile clips. I had an issue with mine not running at correct temp. I stripped the whole system out incl. rad, had it checked no issue and as I went though the pipe work going further south in the engine I found that the jubiolee clip onto the heater pipes in fornt of the crack pulley, off side had completely come undone.
It was enough that when the system reached critical pressure it would allow water to pass, therefo9re not maintianing pressure and making the car run hot.
Once it was changed to a decent jubilee clip and everything put back to gether i have had no issues .. Hottest daay of the year, out for a spririted drive, stuck in traffic for 1/2 hr etc and never got past 90 ...
Run a standard thermostat and a lower temp otter switch, I have also left off the lip spoiler since it was knocked off last as I am finding it runs hotter on the motorway, keeping it in more of the 'sweetspot' we are all chasing !!
My experience with TVR rad's is that when they go ... they really go !!
I would double check all the jubile clips. I had an issue with mine not running at correct temp. I stripped the whole system out incl. rad, had it checked no issue and as I went though the pipe work going further south in the engine I found that the jubiolee clip onto the heater pipes in fornt of the crack pulley, off side had completely come undone.
It was enough that when the system reached critical pressure it would allow water to pass, therefo9re not maintianing pressure and making the car run hot.
Once it was changed to a decent jubilee clip and everything put back to gether i have had no issues .. Hottest daay of the year, out for a spririted drive, stuck in traffic for 1/2 hr etc and never got past 90 ...
Run a standard thermostat and a lower temp otter switch, I have also left off the lip spoiler since it was knocked off last as I am finding it runs hotter on the motorway, keeping it in more of the 'sweetspot' we are all chasing !!
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