distributor problem / turbochargers idea
Discussion
OK. First an issue. I have MSD distributor cap. It seems when raining and if I take my ultima out for a spin, the car will have problems starting again. It seems the rain gets under the hood and moisture gets int the distributer cap and the car will not start again. The situation is getting worse and worse... Also I have noticed the car has problem handling moisture, it seems all the aluminum panels don't handle wet very well... Any idea what I can do about it to protect aluminum and engine, and to fix the distributer cap...
And an idea. I was thinking to convert to EFI (Edelbrock EFI) and to install twin turbocargers (GT30R). What do you think? My engine Chevy 5.7L (Amerspeed 355" 9.5:1 CR). I was thinking to put some stronger con rods and lower CR pistons.
How much torque will the G50 gearbox handle?
How much power / torque will the crankshaft handle (what crankshaft Amerspeed use in their 355")? Is it forged?
How much torque can clutch handle?
What other "weak links" should I think about around engine / transmission to handle about 800bhp (and probably around 800 ftlb / 1000Nm torque)?
And an idea. I was thinking to convert to EFI (Edelbrock EFI) and to install twin turbocargers (GT30R). What do you think? My engine Chevy 5.7L (Amerspeed 355" 9.5:1 CR). I was thinking to put some stronger con rods and lower CR pistons.
How much torque will the G50 gearbox handle?
How much power / torque will the crankshaft handle (what crankshaft Amerspeed use in their 355")? Is it forged?
How much torque can clutch handle?
What other "weak links" should I think about around engine / transmission to handle about 800bhp (and probably around 800 ftlb / 1000Nm torque)?
The crank should be fine even if it's a cast item so long as you don't use high rpm's. Forged cranks are very heavy and somewhat brittle although they are ultimately stronger. Cast cranks are said to be more durable and tough. The rods would also be ok but as you need to invest in quality forged pistons the engine will need to be rebalanced so you could invest in billet rods at the same time. Downside is they may be heavier so I'd try to find out what make your rods are and their weight. If you hunt around you can find very light billet or titanium chevy rods. I'd lower the c/r to 8:1 then you could have a huge gain in torque and a decent hike in bhp from existing rpms 
9:1 c/r will only allow about 6 psi, hardly worth using 2 turbo's for that boost level. It's not as if your car is heavy so you won't notice the lowered c/r.
Boosted.
9:1 c/r will only allow about 6 psi, hardly worth using 2 turbo's for that boost level. It's not as if your car is heavy so you won't notice the lowered c/r. Boosted.
a cheaper/simpler alternative to turbocharging (and one thats very popular in the states) would be to supercharge your engine with a procharger (www.procharger.com). i think they would fit in the GTR engine bay and can be run with a carb (blown through, minor mods required to the carb).
the dilivery of boost is relative to rpm. so the more revs, the more boost! this results in a more drivable snigne than say a turbo, where all at once you have a S**T load of torque, or a roots blower (s**t loads of torque from the off). also these things are quite samll (about the size of a large single turbo) and have power ratings ranging from low 700bhp to 2000bhp and beyond. worth concidering if you are intested in forced induction i think.
Chris.
the dilivery of boost is relative to rpm. so the more revs, the more boost! this results in a more drivable snigne than say a turbo, where all at once you have a S**T load of torque, or a roots blower (s**t loads of torque from the off). also these things are quite samll (about the size of a large single turbo) and have power ratings ranging from low 700bhp to 2000bhp and beyond. worth concidering if you are intested in forced induction i think.
Chris.
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