Forda Puma 1.7 Buying Advice Needed - What to look out for?
Discussion
I was wondering if any of you have any experience with, or experience in buying, the Ford Puma.
I am looking at one that is a 2001 1.7l, green, 85k miles, MOT until Feb, current owner has had it for 15 years.
It does have the usual rust on the arches and door area, and it is stated that the door locks don't work currently - it of course locks with a key - should I be worried about this?
Anything you can recommend that I should watch out for I would appreciate. I am planning on visiting to pick it up.
Cheers
I am looking at one that is a 2001 1.7l, green, 85k miles, MOT until Feb, current owner has had it for 15 years.
It does have the usual rust on the arches and door area, and it is stated that the door locks don't work currently - it of course locks with a key - should I be worried about this?
Anything you can recommend that I should watch out for I would appreciate. I am planning on visiting to pick it up.
Cheers
scot_aln said:
Been about 17 years since I had one (ca't believe it's been that long) but do I recall there being something particular to the top end of the 1.7 engine. I guess as the poster above says though most have been lost through rust.
Is that something that can be fixed and welded, or is it a case of them being scrapped if it gets to a certain stage?steveo3002 said:
is it a keeper or something to bomb around in for 6 months...rust is very expensive to repair well
It's ideally going to be a keeper. When you say expensive, what would you say is a typical cost of something like that? - say the wheel arches and door areas are rusted.Hunts887 said:
It's ideally going to be a keeper. When you say expensive, what would you say is a typical cost of something like that? - say the wheel arches and door areas are rusted.
I'd be interested in hearing this too. We've got a late 1.7 puma that's going in all the usual places too and love the car to bits. Talked about repairing the bodywork too but no idea on price.If the central locking doesn’t work but you can lock it manually who cares .
Rust is what you need to be checking for , not just what you can see but get underneath it and check the sills .
I wouldn’t spend much on one but if you can get one for £500 or less with a long mot then there a fun car .
Rust is what you need to be checking for , not just what you can see but get underneath it and check the sills .
I wouldn’t spend much on one but if you can get one for £500 or less with a long mot then there a fun car .
Hunts887 said:
Is that something that can be fixed and welded, or is it a case of them being scrapped if it gets to a certain stage?
If you look at some of the classic restorations anything can be fixed and welded. But only if it's economically viable or you have an emotional attachment or a mate with a body shop. Even saying that some of the cheap places we used to use to keep an old VW camper alive with annual welding seem to have switched to the easier patch ups on cars at end of lease.scot_aln said:
Hunts887 said:
Is that something that can be fixed and welded, or is it a case of them being scrapped if it gets to a certain stage?
If you look at some of the classic restorations anything can be fixed and welded. But only if it's economically viable or you have an emotional attachment or a mate with a body shop. Even saying that some of the cheap places we used to use to keep an old VW camper alive with annual welding seem to have switched to the easier patch ups on cars at end of lease.Front top mounts knocking
Rear beam mounts are a pain in the arse
Boot and interior floor likely to be rusty as is the rear beam mounting area.
Cam cover leaks and aftermarket seals are s
t.
Coolant heater valves fail
Good cars but they left the factory with only primer on most of the underside
Rear beam mounts are a pain in the arse
Boot and interior floor likely to be rusty as is the rear beam mounting area.
Cam cover leaks and aftermarket seals are s
t. Coolant heater valves fail
Good cars but they left the factory with only primer on most of the underside
We use hers as our "adventure car". It's fun to drive and still relatively inconspicuous, as well as being small enough to park easily.
She's so attached to it that there's talk of doing the full bodywork job on it. I can't see any change out of 1500 quid, even on a very good day though.
She's so attached to it that there's talk of doing the full bodywork job on it. I can't see any change out of 1500 quid, even on a very good day though.
4 minutes after the OP posted
But if you find a relatively rust free one which can be saved or an ultra pampered car then they are silly fun, considerably better than the fiesta zetec 1.6 of the time.
https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-buying-guides/...
Ilovejapcrap said:
rust
But if you find a relatively rust free one which can be saved or an ultra pampered car then they are silly fun, considerably better than the fiesta zetec 1.6 of the time.
https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-buying-guides/...
aka_kerrly said:
But if you find a relatively rust free one which can be saved or an ultra pampered car then they are silly fun, considerably better than the fiesta zetec 1.6 of the time.
https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-buying-guides/...
In relation to that, I checked a local Puma that is for sale, 87k miles, Thunder edition - however the MOT history is as follows;
08/2019 - Passed
1. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
2. ADVISORY
Rear Coil spring corroded both (5.3.1 (b) (i))
3. ADVISORY
Nearside floor has light corrosion in various places
====
Next MOT before this starts at 04/2015
FAILED
1. FAIL
Offside Headlamp aim too low (1.8)
2. FAIL
Nearside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded (5.2.6)
3. FAIL
Offside Front coil spring fractured (2.4.C.1a)
4. FAIL
Offside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (4.1.D.1b)
5. FAIL
Nearside Rear Suspension arm rubber mounting deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
6. FAIL
Offside Rear Suspension arm rubber mounting deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
7. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive (5.2.6)
8. ADVISORY
Offside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive (5.2.6)
9. ADVISORY
Front brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (3.5.1i)
10. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Suspension arm rubber mounting deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
11. ADVISORY
Offside Front Suspension arm rubber mounting deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
12. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
13. ADVISORY
Offside Front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)
14. USER ENTERED
nearside front wiper blade worn and frame in comtact with screen (MOT requirements met at time of test)
15. USER ENTERED
it is recomended that coil springs are replaced in pairs
16. USER ENTERED
nearside front tyre badly worn in inside shoulder (MOT requirements met at time of test)
17. USER ENTERED
judder offside front brake (MOT requirements met at time of test)
====
Another MOT from 2014 states "outer sills corroded".
Stay away do you think? or do you think it's not a bad. Obviously it also depends on what state it's in to the present day, but I am referring to the history as an indicator.
The Puma - one of my favourite topics!
Mine has had a lot spent on it, and it's still a rusty old bucket. Love it though.
They really do like to rot along the sills, at the rear beam trailing arms mounts, all around the boot floor, at the top of the struts front and rear, and any spot where the underseal has been knocked.
The rear arches had totally rotted away on mine. The metalwork was stitched up, strengthened, then the cosmetic holes were bridged with fibreglass. It was treated, painted and waxed after this, and it's holding up okay but it's not pretty. Contrary to some belief, it's not the 'carpet' arch liners that cause this, but rather the rolled edge of the join between the inner and outer wing letting water in. Once it penetrates, the fabric sound deadening in the panel also absorbs the water and helps to rot it from the inside.
Mine has had:
Front and rear shocks, top mounts, bearings
Welding
Exhaust from cat flexi back (rotted apart and blocked with wadding!)
Heater control valve (notorious)
Driver's door lock (door tell-tale light is inside the lock - these break often!)
Rear beam trailing arm bushes (now polybushed - not as bad a job as some say) - handling is very sketchy with these gone!
ST150 front brakes (standard 240 and 260mm brakes aren't great)
ABS sensor (cheap and easy)
Decent rubber all round (wide choice of wheel on these)
Cambelt (not the worst DIY job, but needs some special tools and the VCT needs to be set right) and rocker gasket which ALWAYS LEAK
FRP style intake (basically, a length of hard pipe into the air box rather than a flexi in the wheel arch)
I must have spent far more than the car's worth, but they do take a bit of looking after and you may as well get the handling right up to spec, as that's where the enjoyment is!
Mine has had a lot spent on it, and it's still a rusty old bucket. Love it though.
They really do like to rot along the sills, at the rear beam trailing arms mounts, all around the boot floor, at the top of the struts front and rear, and any spot where the underseal has been knocked.
The rear arches had totally rotted away on mine. The metalwork was stitched up, strengthened, then the cosmetic holes were bridged with fibreglass. It was treated, painted and waxed after this, and it's holding up okay but it's not pretty. Contrary to some belief, it's not the 'carpet' arch liners that cause this, but rather the rolled edge of the join between the inner and outer wing letting water in. Once it penetrates, the fabric sound deadening in the panel also absorbs the water and helps to rot it from the inside.
Mine has had:
Front and rear shocks, top mounts, bearings
Welding
Exhaust from cat flexi back (rotted apart and blocked with wadding!)
Heater control valve (notorious)
Driver's door lock (door tell-tale light is inside the lock - these break often!)
Rear beam trailing arm bushes (now polybushed - not as bad a job as some say) - handling is very sketchy with these gone!
ST150 front brakes (standard 240 and 260mm brakes aren't great)
ABS sensor (cheap and easy)
Decent rubber all round (wide choice of wheel on these)
Cambelt (not the worst DIY job, but needs some special tools and the VCT needs to be set right) and rocker gasket which ALWAYS LEAK
FRP style intake (basically, a length of hard pipe into the air box rather than a flexi in the wheel arch)
I must have spent far more than the car's worth, but they do take a bit of looking after and you may as well get the handling right up to spec, as that's where the enjoyment is!
bangerhoarder said:
The Puma - one of my favourite topics!
Mine has had a lot spent on it, and it's still a rusty old bucket. Love it though.
They really do like to rot along the sills, at the rear beam trailing arms mounts, all around the boot floor, at the top of the struts front and rear, and any spot where the underseal has been knocked.
The rear arches had totally rotted away on mine. The metalwork was stitched up, strengthened, then the cosmetic holes were bridged with fibreglass. It was treated, painted and waxed after this, and it's holding up okay but it's not pretty. Contrary to some belief, it's not the 'carpet' arch liners that cause this, but rather the rolled edge of the join between the inner and outer wing letting water in. Once it penetrates, the fabric sound deadening in the panel also absorbs the water and helps to rot it from the inside.
Mine has had:
Front and rear shocks, top mounts, bearings
Welding
Exhaust from cat flexi back (rotted apart and blocked with wadding!)
Heater control valve (notorious)
Driver's door lock (door tell-tale light is inside the lock - these break often!)
Rear beam trailing arm bushes (now polybushed - not as bad a job as some say) - handling is very sketchy with these gone!
ST150 front brakes (standard 240 and 260mm brakes aren't great)
ABS sensor (cheap and easy)
Decent rubber all round (wide choice of wheel on these)
Cambelt (not the worst DIY job, but needs some special tools and the VCT needs to be set right) and rocker gasket which ALWAYS LEAK
FRP style intake (basically, a length of hard pipe into the air box rather than a flexi in the wheel arch)
I must have spent far more than the car's worth, but they do take a bit of looking after and you may as well get the handling right up to spec, as that's where the enjoyment is!
Interesting! So it's just a case of visually inspecting all potential Pumas before buying? Mine has had a lot spent on it, and it's still a rusty old bucket. Love it though.
They really do like to rot along the sills, at the rear beam trailing arms mounts, all around the boot floor, at the top of the struts front and rear, and any spot where the underseal has been knocked.
The rear arches had totally rotted away on mine. The metalwork was stitched up, strengthened, then the cosmetic holes were bridged with fibreglass. It was treated, painted and waxed after this, and it's holding up okay but it's not pretty. Contrary to some belief, it's not the 'carpet' arch liners that cause this, but rather the rolled edge of the join between the inner and outer wing letting water in. Once it penetrates, the fabric sound deadening in the panel also absorbs the water and helps to rot it from the inside.
Mine has had:
Front and rear shocks, top mounts, bearings
Welding
Exhaust from cat flexi back (rotted apart and blocked with wadding!)
Heater control valve (notorious)
Driver's door lock (door tell-tale light is inside the lock - these break often!)
Rear beam trailing arm bushes (now polybushed - not as bad a job as some say) - handling is very sketchy with these gone!
ST150 front brakes (standard 240 and 260mm brakes aren't great)
ABS sensor (cheap and easy)
Decent rubber all round (wide choice of wheel on these)
Cambelt (not the worst DIY job, but needs some special tools and the VCT needs to be set right) and rocker gasket which ALWAYS LEAK
FRP style intake (basically, a length of hard pipe into the air box rather than a flexi in the wheel arch)
I must have spent far more than the car's worth, but they do take a bit of looking after and you may as well get the handling right up to spec, as that's where the enjoyment is!
Is yours getting to the point where it would have to be scrapped soon, because of the rot? My concern is that the rot will just keep going and going and it is a shame, but then again that's what I should expect for 500 quids worth I suppose.
No, I have stopped* the rot on mine. As in, it gets a yearly inspection underneath, is never used in Winter, and any issues like chips in the undersealare dealt with straight away. I would expect it to last many years from this point. I was able to thoroughly check the weakest parts a couple of months back when I did the rear beam bushes, and it's not noticeably changed since repair two years back.
- This is impossible, of course
Gassing Station | Car Buying | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff