BMW E39 525i SE 2001 Touring

[Challo]

Been on the look out for an estate and this popped up on Autotrader on Saturday night. Local, BMW and very very cheap. I have added a few photo's from the advert, but will grab some more when I pick up the car on Wednesday.

Its a BMW E39 525i SE Touring with a manual gearbox. It has some good and bad points, but for £550 I thought I couldn't go wrong.

Good Points:
Low mileage at 118k
Recent Clutch
Replacement Radiator
Had the oil breather pipes replaced
12 months MOT
Last owner for 12 years, and has a huge folder of history and receipts.
Majority of services completed at the local BMW dealership
Leather is worn but no rips or tears

Bad Points:
Filthy inside and needs a proper deep clean.
Lots of trim with broken clips that need to be replaced
Rear boot struts are broken so needs a wooden stick to hold up the boot.
No rear wiper, and the glass hatch doesn't open
Pixels on the radio are gone so its difficult to make out the stations
Rear brake light needs to be replaced
Headlights, and Brake lights are hazed and need polishing
Slight oil misting on top of the engine cover, and apparently uses a little oil so I think a gasket might be gone.
Loud rattling noise on the front left over bumps, and feels a tad loose while driving. Nothing flagged on MOT, but when you put you foot on the tyre and push the car rolls back slightly? Control Arms?

Not bad for £550. The guy had 30 missed calls and 9 voicemails about the car so had to be quick.

[Kettmark]

Use it for 12 months then throw away if too costly to put through mot.
Great shed.

[tobinen]

Can't knock that for the money

[d_a_n1979]

Not a bad shedding motor for £550. I am biased when it comes to E39s though

Front clunk is either drop link, top mount or one/all of the arms. Needs looking over properly, easy enough to sort and go with Moog or Meyle parts. Don’t pay OEM BMW prices, but don’t pay for crappy parts from the likes of ECP either.

Use RealOEM website for all your part numbers; put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the box at the top of the page & it’ll bring up your exact car

Rocker gaskets easy to sort, source the Febi gaskets off eBay & do the spark plug gaskets and rubber washer gaskets too. Check that the oil filter housing gasket isn’t leaking (main culprit), if it is, that needs doing too

Rear boot lid struts is a fiddly job & probably not worth it unless the cars a keeper for you

As for the glass section, check the wiring in the lid, could be that it’s worn through/perished

[Challo]

d_a_n1979 said:

Not a bad shedding motor for £550. I am biased when it comes to E39s though

Front clunk is either drop link, top mount or one/all of the arms. Needs looking over properly, easy enough to sort and go with Moog or Meyle parts. Don’t pay OEM BMW prices, but don’t pay for crappy parts from the likes of ECP either.

Use RealOEM website for all your part numbers; put the last 7 digits of your VIN into the box at the top of the page & it’ll bring up your exact car

Rocker gaskets easy to sort, source the Febi gaskets off eBay & do the spark plug gaskets and rubber washer gaskets too. Check that the oil filter housing gasket isn’t leaking (main culprit), if it is, that needs doing too

Rear boot lid struts is a fiddly job & probably not worth it unless the cars a keeper for you

As for the glass section, check the wiring in the lid, could be that it’s worn through/perished

Cheers. On the front suspension is there an easy way to check which bit needs replacing?

When kicking the tyre the car rocks back and forth.

[anonymous-user]

If it’s using a noticeable amount of oil, it probably isn’t the gasket. Try rolling down a hill in gear, then accelerate. Look for smoke out of the exhaust from the rear view mirror.

[d_a_n1979]

Challo said:

Cheers. On the front suspension is there an easy way to check which bit needs replacing?

When kicking the tyre the car rocks back and forth.

Ideally you need to find a decent indy with ramps, so they can get it up in the air and look at all the suspension parts, but then put the suspension under load and use a pry bar to see which bush/joint has failed etc

Front suspension parts aren't that expensive, but these cars are fairly weighty, so you do need to replace anything with good parts, like already mentioned Meyle or Moog will do perfectly. Moog you can source via eBay or your local motorfactors should be able to get their parts (Febi and Lemforder are quality also). Meyle parts you can source via BMWMotormec on eBay.

Find the part you need, get the part number off RealOEM (as already mentioned) and then look that part up on eBay using 'BMW - part number' in the search bar and find it being sold via BMWmotormec. They're a long standing and trusted reseller, along with C3BMW

[d_a_n1979]

MJ85 said:

If it’s using a noticeable amount of oil, it probably isn’t the gasket. Try rolling down a hill in gear, then accelerate. Look for smoke out of the exhaust from the rear view mirror.

The OPs mentioned that the oil breather pipes (CCV) has already been replaced and that there's now a slight misting; it'll more than likely be the rocker gaskets and oil filter housing gasket

[Challo]

d_a_n1979 said:

Challo said:

Cheers. On the front suspension is there an easy way to check which bit needs replacing?

When kicking the tyre the car rocks back and forth.

Ideally you need to find a decent indy with ramps, so they can get it up in the air and look at all the suspension parts, but then put the suspension under load and use a pry bar to see which bush/joint has failed etc

Front suspension parts aren't that expensive, but these cars are fairly weighty, so you do need to replace anything with good parts, like already mentioned Meyle or Moog will do perfectly. Moog you can source via eBay or your local motorfactors should be able to get their parts (Febi and Lemforder are quality also). Meyle parts you can source via BMWMotormec on eBay.

Find the part you need, get the part number off RealOEM (as already mentioned) and then look that part up on eBay using 'BMW - part number' in the search bar and find it being sold via BMWmotormec. They're a long standing and trusted reseller, along with C3BMW

Cheers Dan. I used the RealOEM when I had my E46 which was handy, but will get onto bmw5 forum as well. Going to pick-up some drop-links on the weekend and get those replaced, and then go over the car and make a list of things that need doing. Most of it looks like loose trim, or stuff thats been cracked over the years, its had a hard life as a family car for the last 12 years.

[d_a_n1979]

Challo said:

Cheers Dan. I used the RealOEM when I had my E46 which was handy, but will get onto bmw5 forum as well. Going to pick-up some drop-links on the weekend and get those replaced, and then go over the car and make a list of things that need doing. Most of it looks like loose trim, or stuff thats been cracked over the years, its had a hard life as a family car for the last 12 years.

No worries

Re the car; do you know when it last had the cooling system overhauled; these are an achillees heel on the E39 and if you've no paperwork/receipts/SH to show it's been serviced, you really need to consider changing the stat/water pump and top/bottom hoses at a minimum. Last thing you want is this thing going pop on your whilst you're out and about!

[Challo]

d_a_n1979 said:

Challo said:

Cheers Dan. I used the RealOEM when I had my E46 which was handy, but will get onto bmw5 forum as well. Going to pick-up some drop-links on the weekend and get those replaced, and then go over the car and make a list of things that need doing. Most of it looks like loose trim, or stuff thats been cracked over the years, its had a hard life as a family car for the last 12 years.

No worries

Re the car; do you know when it last had the cooling system overhauled; these are an achillees heel on the E39 and if you've no paperwork/receipts/SH to show it's been serviced, you really need to consider changing the stat/water pump and top/bottom hoses at a minimum. Last thing you want is this thing going pop on your whilst you're out and about!

The seller said it had a replacement radiator, but I need to check through all the receipts and see what was done. Im suspecting if the radiator was done, then the hoses and water would be as well but I will check.

[d_a_n1979]

Challo said:

The seller said it had a replacement radiator, but I need to check through all the receipts and see what was done. Im suspecting if the radiator was done, then the hoses and water would be as well but I will check.

How have you got on with this; haven't seen much of you since?

[Challo]

d_a_n1979 said:

Challo said:

The seller said it had a replacement radiator, but I need to check through all the receipts and see what was done. Im suspecting if the radiator was done, then the hoses and water would be as well but I will check.

How have you got on with this; haven't seen much of you since?

Not had much time, but fitted some new Moog droplinks and gave the car a through clean inside. There is still some clunking front the front so ordered some new Febi ARB bushes which hopefully fix the issue.

I’m going to get the tracking checked on the weekend as getting a vibration on the motorway, and it will need some new rear tyres at some point.

Checked the book and it says 225 x 55 x R16, but someone has put 225 x 55 x R16 on. Hopefully it won’t matter going back to the original sizing.

Long term I’ll get it serviced, and just run it through the winter. Underneath seems a good solid car, just need looking after.

[d_a_n1979]

Challo said:

Not had much time, but fitted some new Moog droplinks and gave the car a through clean inside. There is still some clunking front the front so ordered some new Febi ARB bushes which hopefully fix the issue.

I’m going to get the tracking checked on the weekend as getting a vibration on the motorway, and it will need some new rear tyres at some point.

Checked the book and it says 225 x 55 x R16, but someone has put 225 x 55 x R16 on. Hopefully it won’t matter going back to the original sizing.

Long term I’ll get it serviced, and just run it through the winter. Underneath seems a good solid car, just need looking after.

Vibration could be loose bushes/ball joints up front too, or the wheels simply need re-balancing

What tyres are on; you've stated the same size twice? You can go 205/215/225 - 55 tyres on the 16" Style 33 'Turbine' alloys, but OEM sizes are 225/55/16s (you'd only really go narrower for winter tyres TBH)

[Challo]

d_a_n1979 said:

Challo said:

Not had much time, but fitted some new Moog droplinks and gave the car a through clean inside. There is still some clunking front the front so ordered some new Febi ARB bushes which hopefully fix the issue.

I’m going to get the tracking checked on the weekend as getting a vibration on the motorway, and it will need some new rear tyres at some point.

Checked the book and it says 225 x 55 x R16, but someone has put 225 x 55 x R16 on. Hopefully it won’t matter going back to the original sizing.

Long term I’ll get it serviced, and just run it through the winter. Underneath seems a good solid car, just need looking after.

Vibration could be loose bushes/ball joints up front too, or the wheels simply need re-balancing

What tyres are on; you've stated the same size twice? You can go 205/215/225 - 55 tyres on the 16" Style 33 'Turbine' alloys, but OEM sizes are 225/55/16s (you'd only really go narrower for winter tyres TBH)

Im going to get the ARB bushes replaced this week when they arrive, then get the car tracked and check the balancing on the wheels. The rears have uneven tyre wear so I suspect the camber is out.

Ignore the point on the tyres. I must have read the numbers wrong as it has 225 x 55 x R16 on the front and rear and they appear to be the standard size for this car. I'll just replace like for like. I might ask them to switch the fronts onto the rears as the car hasn't done that much mileage in the last few years and unsure on the age of the tyre so would be good to stick new ones on the front.

[d_a_n1979]

Challo said:

Im going to get the ARB bushes replaced this week when they arrive, then get the car tracked and check the balancing on the wheels. The rears have uneven tyre wear so I suspect the camber is out.

Ignore the point on the tyres. I must have read the numbers wrong as it has 225 x 55 x R16 on the front and rear and they appear to be the standard size for this car. I'll just replace like for like. I might ask them to switch the fronts onto the rears as the car hasn't done that much mileage in the last few years and unsure on the age of the tyre so would be good to stick new ones on the front.

Check the DOT on the side of the tyres; it'll give you 4 numbers, the week/year the tyres were manufactured

Tyres in those sizes aren't expensive either, Camskill have usually got decent prices; you just need to get the fitted Something like the Nexen N'Fera SU1s or Kumho KU39s would be more than adequate

Rear camber could be out; might be the bush that's gone (usual suspect); so get the rear upper arms checked (there's 2 each side) and the lower large arm, that has a rose bush, so get that checked too

[Challo]

d_a_n1979 said:

Challo said:

Im going to get the ARB bushes replaced this week when they arrive, then get the car tracked and check the balancing on the wheels. The rears have uneven tyre wear so I suspect the camber is out.

Ignore the point on the tyres. I must have read the numbers wrong as it has 225 x 55 x R16 on the front and rear and they appear to be the standard size for this car. I'll just replace like for like. I might ask them to switch the fronts onto the rears as the car hasn't done that much mileage in the last few years and unsure on the age of the tyre so would be good to stick new ones on the front.

Check the DOT on the side of the tyres; it'll give you 4 numbers, the week/year the tyres were manufactured

Tyres in those sizes aren't expensive either, Camskill have usually got decent prices; you just need to get the fitted Something like the Nexen N'Fera SU1s or Kumho KU39s would be more than adequate

Rear camber could be out; might be the bush that's gone (usual suspect); so get the rear upper arms checked (there's 2 each side) and the lower large arm, that has a rose bush, so get that checked too

Cheers for the advice. I'll get the tracking done and get them to check the suspension piece.

[Challo]

Got a chance to have a look at the car this weekend. The car has a loud knocking noise over bumps, which i have been trying to fix.
Initially I have replaced the ARB Drop Links, and Bushes which you could tell certainly needed replacing.



While it has tightened up the steering the knocking is still very loud over bumps. The MOT was clear recently, and did not make any advisories of potential area's that will need to be replaced. I had a look over the car, but nothing stood out as needing attention? Im going to get the alignment looked at on Monday, so I will ask him to take a look up on the ramp. Any suggestions?

Also had a look at the oil leak and looks like two suspect area's. 1) The Power Steering housing is leaking and looks a right mess with the pipes underneath. Also I think the gasket is gone as there is some misting on top of the engine cover. 2) The Oil Filter housing as well looks like it needs to be replaced. Oil looks to have leaked down the side of the engine, and all around the sump underneath. Potentially the sump gasket needs replacing, but will start with the oil filter housing.

[lost in espace]

The knocking could be the suspension top mounts are worn out, was on my T5.

[d_a_n1979]

Challo said:

Got a chance to have a look at the car this weekend. The car has a loud knocking noise over bumps, which i have been trying to fix.
Initially I have replaced the ARB Drop Links, and Bushes which you could tell certainly needed replacing.



While it has tightened up the steering the knocking is still very loud over bumps. The MOT was clear recently, and did not make any advisories of potential area's that will need to be replaced. I had a look over the car, but nothing stood out as needing attention? Im going to get the alignment looked at on Monday, so I will ask him to take a look up on the ramp. Any suggestions?

Also had a look at the oil leak and looks like two suspect area's. 1) The Power Steering housing is leaking and looks a right mess with the pipes underneath. Also I think the gasket is gone as there is some misting on top of the engine cover. 2) The Oil Filter housing as well looks like it needs to be replaced. Oil looks to have leaked down the side of the engine, and all around the sump underneath. Potentially the sump gasket needs replacing, but will start with the oil filter housing.

Replied over on the 5 forums pal FYI

Re oil leaks; the PS hoses leak where they connect to the reservoir; if you remove them and snip 5mm off and then refit and retighten the jubilee clip; that usually sorts it. Just give it all a good clean off with brake cleaner. The lid's seal can leak too, so if it still leaks and 'mists' then the reservoir needs replacing, the Febi/Meyle one is c£15 and works perfectly

Re engine oil leaks; usual suspects are the oil filter housing gasket (requires the alternator and oil filter housing to be removed to replace the gasket) and the rocker cover gasket itself - these go hard through age and heat/cold cycles, so new ones are needed and not that expensive. Very much DIY jobs with basic tools; just a bit faffy and takes time

Re rocker gasket; you'll need that, the spark plug gaskets and the x15 bolt gaskets too. Rocker and spark plug gaskets are Elring (OEM) and the bolt gaskets, Febi do them for c£20 IIRC

You'll need sealant for the half moons and corners of the rocker gasket too; I personally use Hylomar Blue gasket sealant