Seized screws etc in your classics - how to remove?
Discussion
I have a little project car on the go at present, a 1993 mk1 MX5, and I’ve encountered my first little problem with a seized screw that holds the wing mirror to the door.
I’ve tried loads of penetrating fluid (WD40 OK?), screwdriver has now rounded out the head. I’ve tried cutting the top to allow a larger flat head in which also didn’t work. Tried drilling the centre out but my small bit snapped and is now stuck in the screw body by about a centimetre. As such putting a larger bit to it means I’m not only trying to drill the screw body but also the much harder stuck drill bit that’s right down the centre line.
Can anyone recommend any other tips to remove?
I’ve tried loads of penetrating fluid (WD40 OK?), screwdriver has now rounded out the head. I’ve tried cutting the top to allow a larger flat head in which also didn’t work. Tried drilling the centre out but my small bit snapped and is now stuck in the screw body by about a centimetre. As such putting a larger bit to it means I’m not only trying to drill the screw body but also the much harder stuck drill bit that’s right down the centre line.
Can anyone recommend any other tips to remove?
I feel your pain. I have a similar issue yesterday when replacing the disks on my ML55. Retaining nut snapped which required driller.
Now, looking on screwfix you can buy these sockets that go over the screw head and turn anti clockwise that bind to the screw and removes it. i have a set which sometimes work, but not all time.
Next you can drill it. You start with a small drill, get bigger and then cut a new thread, sounds like you've past this.
Next after that is heat but this will screw up the door.
When I do the above, if all fail, then i drive it down to my local mechanic and see what he can do. Does your car drive ?
I do feel for you. I hate situations like these.
Simon
Now, looking on screwfix you can buy these sockets that go over the screw head and turn anti clockwise that bind to the screw and removes it. i have a set which sometimes work, but not all time.
Next you can drill it. You start with a small drill, get bigger and then cut a new thread, sounds like you've past this.
Next after that is heat but this will screw up the door.
When I do the above, if all fail, then i drive it down to my local mechanic and see what he can do. Does your car drive ?
I do feel for you. I hate situations like these.
Simon
An impact driver (the kind you thump with a hammer) is often good for rusty screws.
Heat before dousing with plusgas works well, but of limited applicability in most bodywork related situations.
Grinding flats on the side of the screw head using a dremel, to grip with pliers - and failing that, grinding the head off entirely - are also options.
Heat before dousing with plusgas works well, but of limited applicability in most bodywork related situations.
Grinding flats on the side of the screw head using a dremel, to grip with pliers - and failing that, grinding the head off entirely - are also options.
Thanks both. I'll investigate those sockets in screwfix. Heat is out unfortunately, likewise anything too impactful on the door structure. The screw is about 5mm proud of the door itself.
If I lop the head off the screw it obviously allows me to remove the mirror but I'm still left with the issue of the threaded part
Might have to investigate behind the door and see what the screw actually fixes into. I'm just starting to discover the joys of older cars that haven't been apart in their lives,
If I lop the head off the screw it obviously allows me to remove the mirror but I'm still left with the issue of the threaded part
Might have to investigate behind the door and see what the screw actually fixes into. I'm just starting to discover the joys of older cars that haven't been apart in their lives,
sbk1972 said:
.
Now, looking on screwfix you can buy these sockets that go over the screw head and turn anti clockwise that bind to the screw and removes it. i have a set which sometimes work, but not all time.
Only ones I can see on screwfix seem to be for nuts rather than screws - https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bolt-nut-remove...Now, looking on screwfix you can buy these sockets that go over the screw head and turn anti clockwise that bind to the screw and removes it. i have a set which sometimes work, but not all time.
Will these work on a screw head?
Yep, those are the ones. not sure if it will work on screws.
Ive seen people weld upside down bolts on the things like this.
The issue here is that what ever you do you cant break / ruin the mirror or door so you'ed limited.
I would get the mirror off so that you have more screw exposed. I very much now doubt it will unscrew as it sounds like its well rusted in.
You may need to flatten it, then drill it out.
Ive seen people weld upside down bolts on the things like this.
The issue here is that what ever you do you cant break / ruin the mirror or door so you'ed limited.
I would get the mirror off so that you have more screw exposed. I very much now doubt it will unscrew as it sounds like its well rusted in.
You may need to flatten it, then drill it out.
Zippee said:
Only ones I can see on screwfix seem to be for nuts rather than screws - https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bolt-nut-remove...
Will these work on a screw head?
I bought a set of those over the BH weekend. Garbage on tight bolts. I got half a turn until the socket rounded out. Unless it's a BIG screw, these will not work.Will these work on a screw head?
Only other thing I can think is to grind off the screw head to reveal a bit of the stuck drill bit, mole grips and a BFH to pull it out then try again with a more durable drill bit?
I'm interested to see how this prevails, I've got a '92 Eunos myself suffering from having no wing mirrors at all but one supplied full of rust so I'm hoping to learn a trick or 2!
If you file a bit off either side of the head, to create a bit of a flat edge, you might then be ok to get it turning with a mole-wrench end on. The chances are however, given that it has resisted other efforts, even when you get a grip it is more likely that it will snap leaving part stuck in the original hole which means you will be drilling.
Getting grotty old screws/bots removed I always consider par for the course, what I really get pxssed about is when you put in something new, that should be decent quality, and it burrs/snaps on you because it is shxt quality!
Getting grotty old screws/bots removed I always consider par for the course, what I really get pxssed about is when you put in something new, that should be decent quality, and it burrs/snaps on you because it is shxt quality!
Just a thought... can you remove the head of the mirror so you just have the 'stalk' remaining - might give you bit more room to work with drills bits etc. I know nothing about MX5s, so apologies if it's a stupid question.
First off, WD40 has it's uses. Penetration (fnarr) ain't one of them. Use duck oil or plus gas - much better stuff IMO.
I'd get a pair of mole grips if I was in your position and try to gently wind out what remains of the screw. As others have said, if you remove the door card do you have access from the inside of the car? Pictures might help here.
Make SURE you are turning the thread in the correct direction - you won't be the first or the last to make that mistake!
Failing that, you'll need to drill the thread out - get some decent quality HSS drill bits and go up in sizes incrementally. Use a low speed on your drill (keep it to a 1000 rpm if possible) and give the thread a spray with penetrating oil to help the drill bit along.
Good luck!
First off, WD40 has it's uses. Penetration (fnarr) ain't one of them. Use duck oil or plus gas - much better stuff IMO.
I'd get a pair of mole grips if I was in your position and try to gently wind out what remains of the screw. As others have said, if you remove the door card do you have access from the inside of the car? Pictures might help here.
Make SURE you are turning the thread in the correct direction - you won't be the first or the last to make that mistake!
Failing that, you'll need to drill the thread out - get some decent quality HSS drill bits and go up in sizes incrementally. Use a low speed on your drill (keep it to a 1000 rpm if possible) and give the thread a spray with penetrating oil to help the drill bit along.
Good luck!
Round headed burr in a Dremel, or better an air-powered die grinder (faster)
Grind out the head, with the stuck-in drill stub, until the mirror will lift off.
Then, you have a screw stub, stuck in the door. Weld a bolt to the top of the stub, which will apply more heat, more localised than any other method.
Protect your door with wet newspaper.
Grip bolt appropriately, and TIGHTEN it first, then eeeeeeaaaaaassssseee it out, turning to and fro, like cutting a thread with a tap.
Plenty of penetrating, waiting each time for penetration. If the screw starts to squeal, STOP, it may break.
JOhn
Grind out the head, with the stuck-in drill stub, until the mirror will lift off.
Then, you have a screw stub, stuck in the door. Weld a bolt to the top of the stub, which will apply more heat, more localised than any other method.
Protect your door with wet newspaper.
Grip bolt appropriately, and TIGHTEN it first, then eeeeeeaaaaaassssseee it out, turning to and fro, like cutting a thread with a tap.
Plenty of penetrating, waiting each time for penetration. If the screw starts to squeal, STOP, it may break.
JOhn
Stigproducts said:
Thanks all so far, a few options to try tomorrow.I've tried the above though, the screw is way too seized for those to work.
tapkaJohnD said:
Round headed burr in a Dremel, or better an air-powered die grinder (faster)
Grind out the head, with the stuck-in drill stub, until the mirror will lift off.
Then, you have a screw stub, stuck in the door. Weld a bolt to the top of the stub, which will apply more heat, more localised than any other method.
Protect your door with wet newspaper.
Grip bolt appropriately, and TIGHTEN it first, then eeeeeeaaaaaassssseee it out, turning to and fro, like cutting a thread with a tap.
Plenty of penetrating, waiting each time for penetration. If the screw starts to squeal, STOP, it may break.
JOhn
What I would do for sure - except that once I’d ground the head round to same size as thread the mirror would be off - then I’d weld a nut on the bit left and the heat of the weld would help to free the thread and no chance of damaging the paint on the doorGrind out the head, with the stuck-in drill stub, until the mirror will lift off.
Then, you have a screw stub, stuck in the door. Weld a bolt to the top of the stub, which will apply more heat, more localised than any other method.
Protect your door with wet newspaper.
Grip bolt appropriately, and TIGHTEN it first, then eeeeeeaaaaaassssseee it out, turning to and fro, like cutting a thread with a tap.
Plenty of penetrating, waiting each time for penetration. If the screw starts to squeal, STOP, it may break.
JOhn
Plus Gas is your friend, I've used the stuff for 60 odd years and it has never failed me. Just apply a couple of drops every day to the stuck thread and give it a gentle wiggle, it will usually click and free up after two or three days, otherwise just keep going until it does come undone, never more than a week in the very worst cases. I've just dealt with a couple of track tods which were utterly seized, one came undone after two days and the other three days.
Mike-tf3n0 said:
Plus Gas is your friend, I've used the stuff for 60 odd years and it has never failed me. Just apply a couple of drops every day to the stuck thread and give it a gentle wiggle, it will usually click and free up after two or three days, otherwise just keep going until it does come undone, never more than a week in the very worst cases. I've just dealt with a couple of track tods which were utterly seized, one came undone after two days and the other three days.
Just ordered some so that will be plan b for nowB'stard Child said:
What I would do for sure - except that once I’d ground the head round to same size as thread the mirror would be off - then I’d weld a nut on the bit left and the heat of the weld would help to free the thread and no chance of damaging the paint on the door
Yep, good approach. Combine with:Mike-tf3n0 said:
Plus Gas is your friend,
Getting a rusty-as-f
k fastener nice and toasty then immediately dousing it in Plusgas works really well. It'll react by smoking like a French mechanic on his lunch break, but it certainly gets stuff freed off.Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff