Discussion
My 500 loves fuel. That's no surprise. I have however noticed over this summer that it really really loves fuel. I can drive into town (6 miles) fill up - which shows a little under full on the gauge, then drive home. Another 6 miles. Then its not much over 3/4. The rest of the tank will last me a week or so - popping into town, perhaps a quick jaunt 30 miles away and back. That's it. Seems quite brutal. I do drive very hard.
The reason I'm posting is a mate of mine followed me in his van and I floored it hard and disappeard over the horizon, as you do, and afterwards he told me there was a very strong smell of unburnt fuel.
Being EFI I assume there is nothing to adjust?
I had a 4.3 RV8 in a westfield and that always smelt of unburnt fuel too.
p.s. I have no fuel leaks!
The reason I'm posting is a mate of mine followed me in his van and I floored it hard and disappeard over the horizon, as you do, and afterwards he told me there was a very strong smell of unburnt fuel.
Being EFI I assume there is nothing to adjust?
I had a 4.3 RV8 in a westfield and that always smelt of unburnt fuel too.
p.s. I have no fuel leaks!
You need to brim the tank, record the mileage and brim it again and work out the mpg accurately. It is the only way.
You will probably only average 15–18 mpg for short journeys.
My 5.5 returns about 12–15 mpg doing similar journeys and maybe 20 on a run. That may sound awful but you don't get something for nothing and it is extremely fast!
You will probably only average 15–18 mpg for short journeys.
My 5.5 returns about 12–15 mpg doing similar journeys and maybe 20 on a run. That may sound awful but you don't get something for nothing and it is extremely fast!
RogerDodger said:
The reason I'm posting is a mate of mine followed me in his van and I floored it hard and disappeard over the horizon, as you do, and afterwards he told me there was a very strong smell of unburnt fuel.
Being EFI I assume there is nothing to adjust?
I had a 4.3 RV8 in a westfield and that always smelt of unburnt fuel too.
p.s. I have no fuel leaks!
+1 on calculating the mpg.Being EFI I assume there is nothing to adjust?
I had a 4.3 RV8 in a westfield and that always smelt of unburnt fuel too.
p.s. I have no fuel leaks!
Does it have Cats?
Without Cats it will smell different and it would seem many of jo public have forgotten this these days. Chances are it also runs slightly rich in stock form too.
Assuming its a catalyst car, it should never "run rich" as the ECU clamps the air fuel ratio at 14.7:1 at anything below 3400 rpm, or 2/3 throttle so thats most of the time. Even when its outside this region under full load at say 13.5:1 AFR it should not stink of fuel, so something is wrong. The most common fault is the AFM goes faulty and its output voltage goes up, and the ECU thinks there is more air going in, so it dumps more fuel in. Whip a plug out and see if its sooty. There is an issue on the 5 ltr TVR set up that they put in a 7 heat plug, that runs a bit cool, so tends to run black anyway for day to day use, but worth a look if you drive the car hard, as it should not be black. The AFM faults don't always flag a fault in RoverGauge as the tolerance on fuel is very wide and the ECU will just try and tweak things to get the mixture correct. The long and short term fuel trims can be a give away, or get your test meter out and check the AFM output: (Thanks to Mark Adams for this information)
Most airflow meter faults will cause the engine to run excessively rich. However if the airflow meter remains connected whilst defective then the vehicle will probably not run. In most cases the output from a defective airflow meter will be in the range 2.0-2.5 Volts, which is a viable value. This represents a moderate load and will cause heavy over-fuelling without setting a fault code.
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts after the initial "warm up" spike that takes about 1/2 a second at 5 volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.8 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.
Now start the engine, and the reading should rise to 1.6 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 1.75 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
The next test is full load, and as with the fuel pressure test it will require use of a rolling road or a steep hill in the same manner. Under full load the voltage should rise to 4.45 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 4.95 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
Most airflow meter faults will cause the engine to run excessively rich. However if the airflow meter remains connected whilst defective then the vehicle will probably not run. In most cases the output from a defective airflow meter will be in the range 2.0-2.5 Volts, which is a viable value. This represents a moderate load and will cause heavy over-fuelling without setting a fault code.
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts after the initial "warm up" spike that takes about 1/2 a second at 5 volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.8 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.
Now start the engine, and the reading should rise to 1.6 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 1.75 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
The next test is full load, and as with the fuel pressure test it will require use of a rolling road or a steep hill in the same manner. Under full load the voltage should rise to 4.45 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 4.95 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
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