Guide for jacking up a Gaydon Vantage
Guide for jacking up a Gaydon Vantage
Author
Discussion

Lawts0908

Original Poster:

193 posts

117 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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As It appears that more and more of us are buying these specialist jacking pads for our cars these days, (I hope to order mine imminently) please could we have a discussion as to the best or preferred method for a DIYer to safely jack the vehicle to avoid any chassis damage. Do we need two low profile jacks on one side and lift both simultaneously? Do we need one jack and some sort of beam between the wheels?

This would be a great help for a numpty layman like me!! Many thanks in advance!,

PatCub

250 posts

146 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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Check out Redpants website for video and instructions.
https://www.redpants.lol/how-to-get-the-car-on-jac...

Dewi 2

1,933 posts

95 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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I recently jacked up one wheel. Have not progressed to lifting two wheels at once.
My Sealey low level Jack does fit under the jacking points, but not when using the jacking pads.

The first action is therefore to drive your V8V up on to a piece of timber. If you want to remove more than one wheel at a time, obviously the timber needs to be under more than one wheel, otherwise after the first wheel has been removed you will encounter a problem.

When refitting the wheel it can be awkward and heavy. I raised the loose wheel on to carpet tiles, so that it fitted the studs without scraping the threads on the alloy.

You need a 21mm socket and a high reading torque wrench.

If your car has the version 1 Sport Pack alloy wheels, please tell me the makers name. It should be marked on the inner face. I now know it is not Restock.




paulrog1

1,235 posts

171 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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I got one of these jacks from Halfords, it easily fits under even when using the jack pads.

Built very well, feels very safe when using it.

https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-wor...tongue outla-331413794817|crid:291898457405|nw:g|rnd:8972103011435288176|dvc:c|adp:1o1|mt:|loc:9046223&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhL2HuOz65AIVCbLtCh3iHAK8EAQYASABEgJA2vD_BwE

Graze01

1,202 posts

122 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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HSM precision provide a jacking beam with pads for each point

https://squareup.com/store/hsm-precision/item/v-va...

Contact Matt - top guy

Graeme

Froomee

1,503 posts

199 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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There are jacking pads for sale on here buy a set.

I have an Arcan jack (bought from cost co ages ago) I believe there is an aluminum one available which I would buy if purchasing again as this jack weighs quite a bit. The wide wheels help it slide in position on rough surfaces too (i.e. tarmac).

https://www.costco.co.uk/Tyres-Automotive/Automoti...

I use a torque wrench for the bolts the torque settings are in the sticky on here.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/teng-tools-torque-wrenc...

Regarding the weight of the wheel, when jacking only take the car an inch or so of the floor, that way you can almost slide it on with minimal lifting. Sitting on the floor also helps so your not leaning over trying to balance the weight smile

Edited by Froomee on Tuesday 1st October 16:14

Lawts0908

Original Poster:

193 posts

117 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
quotequote all
Excellent, thanks chaps.
My concern is that I’ve heard (incorrectly?) that you should avoid jacking one wheel only for fear of chassis damage. Therefore (I’m assuming) either side needs to be lifted evenly to hoist both wheels simultaneously. If it is actually ok to jack just one wheel at a time with no problems , then that is a great relief as I’m only after doing a thorough wheel/arch clean etc. But I do need to be completely reassured that this is the case!
Mine is a 2010 V12V.

paulrog1

1,235 posts

171 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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It's my understanding that it's ok to jack just one side at a time with no damage to the car.

They are very strong and rigid.

LPH

428 posts

203 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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Think about the forces the suspension and chassis see when driving along uneven roads. Jacking one corner up won't be even close to those sorts of forces.

macdeb

8,760 posts

285 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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I just can't see how that small 'beam' will not bend between the jcking points? It seems to have another point touching the body wher the jack is, so can't see the logic?

steveway

946 posts

114 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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Lawts0908 said:
Excellent, thanks chaps.
My concern is that I’ve heard (incorrectly?) that you should avoid jacking one wheel only for fear of chassis damage. Therefore (I’m assuming) either side needs to be lifted evenly to hoist both wheels simultaneously. If it is actually ok to jack just one wheel at a time with no problems , then that is a great relief as I’m only after doing a thorough wheel/arch clean etc. But I do need to be completely reassured that this is the case!
Mine is a 2010 V12V.
Where abouts in dorset are you? I am in north, Shaftesbury with a V12V 2010 plate

Jon39

14,958 posts

173 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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LPH said:
Think about the forces the suspension and chassis see when driving along uneven roads. Jacking one corner up won't be even close to those sorts of forces.
That is exactly what I thought about, when OP mentioned jacking only one wheel.
The user manual does not say, jack both wheels on one side at the same time.
The only time that we have heard about jacking causing chassis damage (write-off), was when a tyre firm employee placed a jack in the wrong position.

macdeb said:
I just can't see how that small 'beam' will not bend between the jacking points? It seems to have another point touching the body where the jack is, so can't see the logic?
I have tried to understand your point, but cannot picture what you are describing.
Please explain further.




milu

2,514 posts

296 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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I've jacked mine one at a time with the pads and it's fine. I haven't opened a door whilst in that position but it doesn't look like anything moves.
The pads will be handy if I ever need to visit a regular tyre retailer

Related to this topic for me is a car I've just bought. An Alfa GT. The vast majority of them have crushed sills due to tyre fitters using the outer section to place the jack. Instead of a couple inches further inboard.
There are no separate sill sections. It's the whole side up to the front wing.

I'm always very careful but it seems the 'professional' not so much!

vernierMike

397 posts

124 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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So I have a normal Halfords jack that I have used for 30 years. I needed to drive the car up on paving slabs to get it underneath with a discrete block of wood to bear onto the sill at the right place. I took said piece of wood to the tyre fitters and said 'if you don't use this you can write the car off' and they paid attention.

I jack on one corner only often, the car is stiff and I have had no problems. Just make sure that the aluminium is protected by a block or puck and you're away.

Getting fed up reversing the car onto the paving slabs I have bought a low jack, £30 from Screwfix and it does the job very well! No more clutch-burning to get the the wheels elevated!




DB9VolanteDriver

2,661 posts

206 months

Tuesday 1st October 2019
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Jon39 said:

LPH said:
Think about the forces the suspension and chassis see when driving along uneven roads. Jacking one corner up won't be even close to those sorts of forces.
That is exactly what I thought about, when OP mentioned jacking only one wheel.
The user manual does not say, jack both wheels on one side at the same time.
The only time that we have heard about jacking causing chassis damage (write-off), was when a tyre firm employee placed a jack in the wrong position.

macdeb said:
I just can't see how that small 'beam' will not bend between the jacking points? It seems to have another point touching the body where the jack is, so can't see the logic?
I have tried to understand your point, but cannot picture what you are describing.
Please explain further.
He's referring to the HSM bar seen in one of the links above.

Lawts0908

Original Poster:

193 posts

117 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2019
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Many thanks for the advice to all. Obviously, it makes sense that the chassis would be strong enough to be able to jack one corner, but I must have mis heard or mis-understood what was being said. I’m ordering my pads and a low profile jack and will get on and clean my wheels.

Does anyone happen to know the V12V torque setting for the wheel nuts?

Lawts0908

Original Poster:

193 posts

117 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2019
quotequote all
And Mr Redpants’ YouTube vid seems to think it’s ok to jack up on the ‘chassis’ mid point in order to lift one side of the car so he can lower it onto his axles stands (positioned under the front and rear jacking points) so that both wheels can be removed on one side........

Are we happy with this??

Jon39

14,958 posts

173 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2019
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Lawts0908 said:
Does anyone happen to know the V12V torque setting for the wheel nuts?

I expect you will have the figures in your manual.

They are shown in the V8 Vantage manual, together with full instructions for jacking and wheel removal and refitting.

The V8 wheel nut tightening is done in two stages.




Graze01

1,202 posts

122 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2019
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Lawts0908 said:
And Mr Redpants’ YouTube vid seems to think it’s ok to jack up on the ‘chassis’ mid point in order to lift one side of the car so he can lower it onto his axles stands (positioned under the front and rear jacking points) so that both wheels can be removed on one side........

Are we happy with this??
(don't ask me how I know) but there is a risk with this as it is difficult to locate the jack under the rail because the sill panel covers the rail

car can drop off the jack as it "rolls up" while lifting

be Careful!!!